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Hello all. . I was wondering if anyone knows of good websites like this one but geared toward the sc400s.. Is there anything good to know about those cars and to watch out for. I was looking at them in the 50-120k mile range. I imagine they are a lot more refined vehicles than the mkiii...

thanks for the info. what are gr-2s?

Hey all, I have a few questions for anyone knowing enough. Some info: 1st let me say I love the way my car sits, its lowered somehow. Im happy with the way the car handles on curves but its a bit boaty on the bumps. I dont know what springs are in there but strongly suspect they are stock...

thanks , thats what i was afraid of but couldn't remember if there was a second bolt. looks like the turbo is coming off...

I was putting my front cover back on after replacing the seals, moving along really well and its almost together until Screeeeech!, damn I forgot to put the gasket on the water pipe that connects to the front cover:3d_frown:... Has anyone had any luck getting the pipe loose enough to replace...

Supra seems to be one of the hottest damn cars Ive had. At a highway rest area I swear the tops of my feet were burning as I stood nest to front side of the vehicle. Its the only car that cooks its hoses onto itself... so yeah pretty hot. I have a turbo blanket Im going to wrap my turbo in..

do the mkiv wheels/tires fit on a mkiii? i need tires so am looking for a cheap upgrade. reading previous posts, what does lowering a car help with when it comes to tires? my car is lowered, i think by someone torching the springs. im due for new shocks and some kind of new spring also.

Hello.. I was trying to get rid of a squeak or squeaks.... My speedo cable had a new lower end so I followed the post about using a bag and oil to to try and get oil into the cable. This helped with the squeak but now my cable is jumpy where it was not before.. I may have done something...

He didnt offer a fix but is interested in maybe buying it. My radiator guy has some antifreeze safe epoxy and says it will fix it, wont be pretty though. My friend said he patched his alum radiator with the stuff and it worked... I got a csf radiator, stock style to get me back in business.

:(I guess I will never own a pretty radiator. Running the edis setup with the thick trigger wheel caused me to space out the fan to clear the wheel, the first time it finally heated up and i got on the boost it scraped a circular pattern into the new rad.:3d_frown: my fan scraped the 1 week...

Im using the ford edis set up with ms2 on my 7mgte. I had absolutely no set up issues using the stock coils. It seems real easy and the tach works. After buying a set up from someone on here,we improved the bracket for the sensor and rewelded the trigger wheel balanced on the dampener...

I checked the wire from the sender to the m1 connector.It is pin 9 on the connector. I finally found that the ground wire was missing, it is pin 6 on the m1 connector. Now after all this I have to see what happened to the fuel gauge that was working before I started messing with the temp...

I do not mean to hijack the thread but I have the same problem myjz8u describes and I do not want to clutter up the forum with the same subject. Can you Soapra explain better how the gauge grounds through the body harness? Where do you look to see how this is grounded? When we switched over to...

The build sheet does not list the dish volume or crevice volume, however the man at cp tech line was very helpful.

For those wanting to know the dish volume of cp pistons. for the 7mgte .040 according to cp is-18.3 cc, crevice volume above the rings is .6cc.

I dont expect spoonfeeding, I dont even expect someone to tell me exactly what my cr will be as I know every motor is different and even an online calculator is not going to be totally accurate if I dont get in there and measure what I have going on. I know for my L series Nissan motor there...

Does anyone know if running cp pistons .040 oversized with the eagle rods what compression ratio this should yield with minimally shaved head and block using 1.5 or 2.0 mm hg?

A copper hg- oring block will hold 1000 hp. Its what used on alcohol dragsters and stuff... Yes it might be overkill for our cars but since we are prone to failure it might be the way to go, the copper material has advantages of excellent heat transfer between the alum head and metal block...

On my oringed block from my other car I used the same as stock specs. If I were using a copper gasket on my 7m I would use the copper spray and then torque to 85 lbs, same as any other gasket.

So, are we better off getting larger valves installed with some headwork vs cams. Maybe hold off on cams until a later date?