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If your Fuel Pump upgrade choice ends up being a Walbro, buy it from somewhere you can trust and read the section on fake Walbro's in the General MKIII Discussion section to educate yourself on identifying the real deal. The Chinese are copying everything these days.

I don't know what size turbo your running but I wouldn't trust the 20 year old fuel pump or for that matter even a new stock replacement fuel pump to keep with the flow rate needed to support a single with the 550's.

You might want to try and take if off completely and clean it out real good with brake cleaner (including the valve in the manifold) then hook it backup again and see if that doesn't fix it. I had the same issue and just cleaning it out real good did the trick. It's been fine for two years now.

Yep, what Johnd and gotturbos said, I have a turbonetics 60 series, HKS 264's, tial44, HKS AFPR, 440's, walbro, SAFC II, DM FMIC and I have the same lean spot but more at 2800 to 3000 rpm. I doubt the 550's will take it all away but it might help some. You can use your AFPR and Piggyback to get...

Yea, easy job really but the location can make it take way longer than it should. I'm glad it worked out for you.

One way / one bolt

Nothing else is required when replacing the crank sensor. You need to be able to slide the alternator forward to get to it. For me that requires removing a pulley and loosening my radiator a bit so I could lift it up to slide the alternator forward between the framing of the fan but it depends...

Fluid in the CPS plugs is pretty common and it's usually oil if your valve gasket leaked at all, now or previously. Oil won't cause the problem you are talking about however I've seen where conductive fluid got in some connectors from a cleaning solution and essentially shorted out the...

I kept the JZ one too. Including the lid which has some different letters on it than the USDM one but it can be figured out easily. My stocker was all cracked and looked like crap as well.

Does anyone know the part number for the A/T Supra 1JZ ecu? Some of the links in the swap section appear to be broken and the ones that work I couldn't find what I needed. Update: I think I found it. 89661-14470 Thanks

I was wondering if anyone in the Tampa bay area has a good 1JZ Supra ecu i can plug in real quick to confirm mine is toast as I search for a replacement. It would be a big help and I can give you a few bucks for your time. PM me if you can help me out. I live in the Palm Harbor area. Thanks Tim

Nothing wrong with it. Just space and weight plus that fact that you don't have ABS and the glow of the ABS light on all the time may blind you from potential road hazards.:icon_bigg

I'm no expert on the ABS system but I have learned a few things about it over the years by trial and error by various tranny swaps. You have to have the tranny sensor for it to work because the ABS computer needs the the pulses it produces to trigger the ABS function. The second thing is that...

Thanks for the help. The car actually belongs my buddy I've been helping him with the swap and doing all the wiring for him. His car is gonna be sick. He's put sooooo much money into it. Just a short list of his setup from what I remember. 2JZ (Obviously) HKS 274 cams 80MM throttle Body...

I'm in need of some help with this wiring. Basic setup: 7m body and body harness, 2jz, 2jz wiring harness, AEM EMS2 (plug and play for 2jz) so basically the same as a 2jz ECU for wiring purposes. I’m in the final stages of wiring a 2jz into my 7M and I’ve run into a wiring...

I think part of it is also just data collection. New car in town with big exhaust so they find a reason to pull you over and put a name to the car and log it in the notebook. It's pretty easy to find a non standard item, non conformance on a car, or some other BS reason like improper lane change...

I'm using Tanabe springs with Tokico ILLUMINA II / TEMS and it's a great combination. I had the same issue with lowering too much with my driveway being on a hill.

I wouldn't mess with any of that until you can get it tuned. Actually, I talked to a well known tuner here in Florida who has tuned many JZ engines in the 1,000 hp range and he said his experience with the HKS cams is that they are so well made that he rarely has to adjust the gears from nominal...

Mine did the same thing, but in stages. I started with a 650 rpm idle nice and steady. 1st I installed my HKS 264's cams with the gears set at 0 and my car would barely idle. I cleaned and checked my ISC valve and gapped my TPS just to make sure and then eventually just raised the idle...

+1 for the hydrofan. I've had it for two year without and issue. DM sells a SS hose you might want to get for the pressure line. I've always thought about buying it if mine ever leaks but I haven't has a drop leak so far. The only down side I can see is if you get on a dusty road even parked...