It WAS a china manifold but......... First I cooked it in hardening owen in 800 degree of celsius for 3 hours (to relieve all tensions in welds). Then nodifyed the wastegate (turbosmart 45mm) flange and weldet some supports. Then I straighten all the flanges and coated it whit black satin...
Had a discussion about that matter with my elder colleague who has a good knowledge about matallurgy and he pointed me that it's not going to be an issue since the bearing bronze alloy that we have allready has 9.5--10% of aluminum in it. It also has iron, zinc and lead in it. :wave:
But only...
My way.:nono:
Was thinking to do the job with helicoil but did not have enough of them. So did my own inserts from bearing bronze. Outside has M14X2 thread and inside MF10X1.25 thread.
P.S used milling machine for frilling and making the threads......and lathe to do the inserts.
Progress has been very very slow. Initial thought was to get the car runnig this summer but events in life changed that. Living in two cities now since wife had a job from another city so weekends are now time that I spend there. So going but going slow.
Have spend some time at garege after...
My spare engine (7M-GTE) was from -92 and it has a oil level sensor in oil pan. Also I hava a gauge cluster from the same -92 7M mk3 and it has the oil level warning light. There are some small differences in US and Europe models....... so maby in -92 mk3 the oil level warning light was mostly...
Don't wanna be pedantic (nitpicker) BUT TiG welding is NOT the ONLY way to weld aluminum. You can also weld aluminum by using MIG and MMA welding. :biglaugh:
But to the matter at hand...... there should be no issues welding the radiator. Just take it to some welder and let him do it.
On their eBay shop there are some complains that one or more (in set) injectors have been faulty. So quality control is not their best part. Price is good. For me 575cc Siemens Deka injectors (+ clips for plug and play installation) where 500 USD from Five O Motorsport.
Peugeot 106 1.1i.:biglaugh: Had it for 10 years now and done 136701 miles on it. Never lets me down and cheap as chips to run. Starts without heating in -25f. Next dd car is going to be peugeot 107 (same car as Toyota Aygo and Citroen C1. Uses Toyota engine). Or if I have the money at the time...
So what is your main worry concerning parts?? I also had a long long brake of Supra (had one back 1996-1999) and for me the feeling is just opposite. I find much more easyer now to find parts (original and aftermarket) for the Supra.
I had mk3 Supra as a daily drive in 1996-1999 and never had any issues. Reason for 95% of 7M-GTE failures sits between the drivers seat and steering wheel. Just my opinion.
Now building one mk3 again and not expecting to have any issues when it's done. Done a full rebuild to engine (stock...
4000 USD should get you a very good setup. Here in Finland everything is quite expensive but for me the turbo+manifold+wastegate+dp materials+intake 4" to 3" was around 1800.....1900 USD. Just trow all that is realited to CT26 away and start a new life for your car and for your self. Holset HX35...
The stock ct26 and it's variants has never been my favorite turbos. They are not so fast spooling as I would like and have had some reliability issues with them. The compressor side is not the problem it's the turbine side. I think that the desing of the housing and turbie wheel is not the best...
What is your impression of that Master Power turbo? Going to use MPR-474-3 on my OldCrappy. Not runnig yet but the build quality seem's good. Also it has 360 degree thrust bearing and their L.I journals that are almost as good as ballbearing.
Good lookin Supra you have there. Good power also...
Hi,
Here are some pictures of the process. It’s quite a simple thing to do if you have the basic skills for fabricating and using the needed machines (lathe and milling machine). I only have old fashion manual machines in use so getting the precision right is the hard part. Also don’t have my...
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