Megasquirt MS3. DIY FTW. :) This option will cost, by far, the least and is every bit as capable/reliable as the most expensive system.
Otherwise, find a tuner that knows these cars (has tuned them before), ask what they use/recommend and buy that.
With a gtech pro it showed a small improvement in 1/4 mile time on the same stretch of road, same air temp, humidity (same day). I don't remember the exact numbers as it was a while ago now. But I did test it objectively, not just by feel. It's an older gtech which cannot print out dyno sheets...
This was my civic before I sold it. Raised about 1.5" above stock with stiffer springs. The camber and geometry was corrected and the car handled WAY better than it ever did when it was lowered 2.5" below stock. It raised a lot of eyebrows, especially when I was able to keep up with a lot of...
I took fluid dynamics and all that fun stuff in college for mechanical engineering, so I'm not pulling this stuff out of thin air (or off of google...lol).
I know the TB and IM get hot. Don't forget the air is traveling through the intake tract very quickly, which doesn't leave a lot of time...
I did a lot of reading up on that resonator before I took the risk of removing it. (I also kept it in case I did notice a significant loss in power). I decided to try swapping it out with a 3" pipe with a much more gentle bend before the TB and it performs pretty much the same, maybe pulls...
Colder air will make it burn more fuel (because it's more dense/contains more oxygen). None of that will make it noticeably faster. You'll get better fuel mileage just leaving everything as is. Just do the tune up. :)
Again, I only opened the front of the air box leaving the rest to continue to act as a heat shield. It cost me nothing and I get the satisfaction of hearing the nice 7M more when I step on it (sorry if I like to hear my engine a little more than the average person...lol). No, that did nothing to...
Great observation. ;)
^Exactly. That is why I heat wrapped my intake pipe. After a short drive I couldn't even touch the pipe for a few seconds. After wrapping the pipe, I could grab the underside and it was warm at best.
To those who keep saying "it's just a GE" "it's not worth it" "why...
^Definitely.
I think the best solution is to use an intake manifold that doesn't cross over the top of the engine to the exhaust side, along with a thermal shield gasket. Unfortunately there aren't any low-cost answers to this, so most of us must do the best we can with what we have. ;)
^Plus when you get into boost and the waste gate opens, that is exhaust by-passing the turbine and is un-muffled.
I remember running a straight pipe on my 86 volvo 740 turbo a few years back. It was very quiet until you got heavy into boost. Then it barked like an NA...lol.
They can still flow a lot of volume, so I doubt you lost any jam. If so, it wouldn't be much.
Had one of these on my mildly modded civic back in the day and it did not lose any discernible power according to the g-tech pro.
Oh, I just ordered the cat-back system, not the header as well. I will be using a 2.5" high flow cat to replace the stock cat. Will be going with an OBX header in the near future as well. But thanks for the tip. I've read that a lot of people have had to make small adjustments to make headers...
For sure. That would make big difference and wouldn't require too much work... Now you've got me thinking... lol
It's basically a composite gasket that's a little thicker than a regular gasket (2-5mm), designed to resist heat transfer.
Do you mean the flange that bolts the system to the cat?
Judging by your build thread pictures you are running a turbo style muffler. They are very quiet, almost stock-like compared to most performance mufflers. So you may find that going straight piped with one resonator will be very loud...
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