because you could possibly be driving LESS miles. but idling the engine the same time you would normally be driving it for those 5000 miles.... so lets say one guy drives 50-60 miles to work every day, and its a straight shot no traffic... over 6 months, he has 5000 miles accumulated.
another...
measure the size of the intake and exhaust wheel openings with calipers.... compare to a stock, and if anyone else has a 60-1 they should chime in with measuresment... i sold my old one (regretting it now, it was a fun fucking turbo lol).
im still selling parts from my first car lol... but i would say ive sold well over 2000 from it, including a bare block, bare head, and every last interior piece that was in good condition.
there is an art to selling parts...
oh, and in case you decide to do it.....sign up with fedex...
why entertain people like this ron.. lol posting pictures of different style manifolds when the topic is about a certain type.
the lipp manifold looks great, and its amazing that we finally have more options for intake manifolds and we arent limited to the at home hacking of the stock one to...
my 88 block had them.
not having squirters is NOT an issue.... in fact it will help keep your oil pressure higher without them.
make sure you run better than stock pistons though, to help with the heat they are gonna see... and be sure that the tune is accurate when your breaking it in...
i run an 80mm x02 throttle body on a custom LARGE short runner intake mani.... but i also run a built a340e tranny. so no problems really.. it can be extremely touchy if you dont know how to press the throttle right, but other than that, i havent had any issues at all with it being so touchy its...
i wouldnt waste your money on that dress up kit... 425 for what? a couple of shiny metal plates, 1 that you should consider even getting (spark plug valley plate.. stock looks great with the black rubber on it). the intercooler top plate. and a 75 bucks worth of silicone hoses and 50 bucks worth...
awesome, thanks for the info. good to know that i could safely eliminate it and just use a fuel pressure gauge instead, but if i ever have to put it back on i do have a spot for it on my FFIM, just prefer to not spend the money right now on braided steel lines and fittings to get it hooked up...
well, i was wondering if there was anything special needed besides a plug in the original spot in the manifold needed in order to remove the cold start injector? do 2 wires need to be grounded on the harness plug to prevent a code from being thrown?
input would be helpful from guys who have...
lookin pretty damn good wes, i wish i had the time to pull my engine and get some of those things replaced in mine after i had a few failures.... and i know youl be happy with those coilovers, i just installed my megan coilovers 3 days ago and they are one hell of aset for under 1000!
also...
yeah, thats pretty much what i planned on doing, was getting a second pully to just stick right next to the other one on there..... anyone have pics of a setup like that?? only thing im worried about is if there is going to need to be a difference in pully size to accomodate for difference in...
ok, so im gonna get started on installing my front facer, but need a little info on what others have done who run once and have an auto tranny? i need to get the kickdown cable connected, or there wont be any fun happening afterwards.. anyone know a way to alleviate this problem and hook it up...
if your filter is leaking, the turbo isnt bad, and your puff of smoke could be caused by an increase in oil pressure pushing through whatever bad seal you have on your filter, and being burned by the heat of the exhaust manifold or whatever else its hitting and smoking on.
just get a new...
to retorque... do not losen all at once lol.. youll definately open up the gasket and flood the cylinders and never get a good seal.. go in order from 1-12 in the books order. losen it just enough to break it lose (itll be real tight like your losening a stuck bolt), and as soon as it breaks...
ok, so how much of a oil pressure gain are we talkin about here? supposed to shim it 5mm (so a couple of small washers equiv to 5mm in thickness on the inside end of the spring in te oil pump right??) currently im running around 40psi at cruising on the interstate and about 20psi while idle...
ok, the wires are all hooked up right, and all the settings are correct in the maft pro. i need to find out if my sensors are bad or if the maft pro itself is bad, does anyone know the right voltages per output for the maft pro so i can test it? dont know what could be th eproblem, because the...
yes, im sure. i had an safc hooked up prior to this, and some of the pinouts on it are the same, the other concern. just wondering what other things i should be looking at double.triple checking in the event that it still throws codes and wants the afm connected to fix the problem??
would the...
ok, so i cut the THA wire with the maftpro on f-in 0, unhooked the afm, and started it up... didnt make a difference, but id still need to know which way this wire gets good up, and if theres any other special ways to hook up any of the other wires??
ok, i have a conflict here if anyone i still reading this thread considering this is my third update post in a row.
the diagram from njsupraa70 shows the brown wire (air temp) being tapped into the tha wire on the ecu. but the directions on the sheet say to splice the brown wire into the ecu...
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