Search results

Just the rubber O-ring.

It is where the block and the cover at the front meet, for both engines. Check the TSRM here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=55 I read somewhere on this forum that it was removed in '89. When I read it I went out and looked at my 89 (which was disassembled...

Yes, actually the Diagnostic block is by the fuse block which is next to the battery. You can plug a paper clip into "Ox1" and try it before you install it permanently. According to the wiring diagram the wire is white (can't see mine it's covered up now). I ended up soldering in just behind...

Now I understand, you do not have the stock boost sensor. Ok, regardless of which manifold you are running (7MGE or 7MGTE), you should have a small vacuum nipple behind the intake manifold which points directly at the firewall. This is the line that you should tee into.

Tee into the small vacuum line comming off the back of the manifold and going to the stock boost sensor (among other places). The stock sensor is located next to the big resistor between the shock tower and the fender on the drivers side. It says "Sensor Assy Turbo Pressure" on it.

Ox1 on the Diagnostic Connector.

Can anyone recommend a 7M worthy shop in the Atlanta area?

One more time... specs are here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38804

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38804

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38804

This spot looks suspiciously like it was routed between some dash/body panel that pinched the wires and caused a short.

Excellent question Jonathan. I don't see an answer...probably still too early in the morning. If the starter solenoid does click and the battery has a good charge I would suspect the contacts within the solenoid on the starter. But it sounds like you had the starter checked out and rebuilt...

I am in the process of doing this also. Your old screws look exactly like mine (except for the rust) so they must be original. I too would appreciate some clarification on which sealant is best. Here are some links for reference. Dylan's writeup has some good pics...

This is deja vu all over again for me. I had all of these symptoms with my son's '89 N/A 5-speed. I believe you have two separate problems, as I did. Coolant being pushed out the overflow and an oily film on top of the coolant in the overflow tank after it sits overnight, strongly suggests a...

They gave you the one for an N/A. Take it back and get the 3 wire. Turbo model uses a heated O2 sensor, thus the extra wires.

I did this recently. It took me about 4 tries until I found something that worked (the valve spring pressure will crush the plastigage). First pass: Lay the cam in the head with #3 and #7 cam journals (#2 and #6 cylinders) on the high portion of the cam lobes (ie; valves open). The cam...

I used this adapter to replace the CSI Banjo Bolt on the fuel rail: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D2276&N=700+115&autoview=sku It adds a 1/8 NPT and makes a nice clean installation while keeping the CSI functional. Summit added an $8.95 handling...

The final resolution: Picked up an ECU on eBay which fixed the problem. This thread is old now but I have only worked on this in my spare time. By the way, this thread was originally posted in the N/A section which is where it should be. I myself own a Turbo but this car is my son's N/A...

Let's not be too hasty with a deadline. I am often away for a couple of days and could miss it.

I see you checked my public profile. It is true, shimming the wastgate on my own personal car did in fact cause a BHG and a serious one at that. The air pressure test pushed coolant out all over the floor in just a few seconds and no amount of retorque could fix that. I did say "it fixed my...