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If you're running aem I would look up the pinouts for the ecu and figure out where in the clip the wires need to go and run new wire from the sensor to the Ecu and loom them up and not fuck around with splicing into the existing harness.

I agree with everything that's written in your post. The setup was done incorrectly with too high a dwell setting which led to damage, when set properly the coils performed excellent.

I pulled this off of the Mojo installation instructions website "CHARGE TIME (DWELL) 3.5ms - This may be increased to as high as 5.0 ms if more spark power is required, but it is best to make sure timing is stable with a timing light after each increase. 3.5 ms is safe for all known EMS."...

It's definitely a nice idea, but I wouldn't go in on it until I could see how good the fitment was and where the cutoff lines are and how it flows. I don't want something that looks like a goofy toupe sitting on top of the dash, but if it flowed well i'd be in.

I'd agree that if you're not looking for power just stick with the 7M. I probably wouldn't even bother rebuilding it for as cheap as the JDM motors are. When I blew my headgasket, I just bought a new 7M and did a gasket replacement on that.

It's a PWR

My roomate tig welded AN fittings on his radiator to get rid of the standard hose, he had no issues with it but he is pretty skilled.

In the winter I daily drive my beloved 88 beater supra that hasn't let me down in 7 years of snow and salt driving, in the summer I daily a Challenger R/t and honestly, I would daily the 88 beater in the summer if it had a/c. Having a car you're not worried about getting door dings...

I'll be interested to see what the final numbers are bolted in the car on an actual dyno. Engine dyno numbers are incredibly inaccurate, all you know for sure is that it makes a lot.

Weird how so many of the mk4 guys are running these with great results and can gap their plugs out to .044 and not have spark blow out at 35+ psi, but I guess if one guy had problems with them because it wasn't set up properly but the tuner of all people say it wasn't his fault it's the coil...

These LQ9's don't have any wires, they have a 2J boot built into the coil and a bracket that holds them in place under the stock galley cover. They are cosmetically identical. Also, I'd be interested to hear how coils "killed" some guys engine. Coils can kill spark plugs, they can kill a DLI...

I just got these coils in the mail to run with my 128 and they are outstanding. If you're running a 2J and Proefi, these things should be on your car. http://mojoperf.com/drupal/node/15

I deleted that photo bucket account. It was just pictures showing how far off the runners are from fitting the gasket.

Yes, the 6 frame bolts do.

^That and 6-7k should get you where you need to be

Feel free to weld it up, and your answer to welding it a lot should be even funnier when it rips itself apart. The frame of any car is rigid, but it's also designed to flex. As the frame flex's and your subframe doesn't, something is going to give and the more welds you make, the more places...

Anyone have pics and stats with their car lowered on radials?

That depends heavily on mods and driving styles, but you can assume you'll get 25-35% less per gallon that 87, but you get the performance perks of race gas if your car is tuned for it.

The lecturing condescending responses in this thread are ridiculous. Insurance: When you are signing up just click the "no" box for abs. The car doesn't have it, regardless if from factory or removed. Unless you are the single original owner of the car, I defy anyone to prove that it...

My 2J with driftmotion mounts, ls400 fan clutch, stock radiator and GTE blade had clearance issues with my upper radiator hose and i/c piping. I went e-fans for this reason.