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I assume you have a serial cable? Most newere laptops don't have a serial port anymore, but you can buy a serial to USB adapter at Best Buy...

It depends on who's asking. :evil2:

Light load or under a lot of boost? Does it miss at idle? If you want people to try and help, you should really try to be a little more forthcoming. If you just want to vent...then maybe tell us up front and we won't bother. ::shrug:: :)

I helped with a 7M setup for Bigaaron a while back that you would have sworn was an ignition problem. We scoped it...checked out every possible ignition issue...you name it. It would stumble and stutter very badly when it came into boost. There was no indication that there was anything amiss...

My advice for you would be to learn how ANY ECU works...they all work the same way. Just go to: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/search.php and enter "ECU" and you'll be on your way.

I wouldn't be so quick to blame the ignition. If you just got it all wired up, I doubt your mapping is all that dialed...and you don't have to be that far off to make it miss like crazy. The stock setup should be good for 400-ish at least and probably more than that. What are you doing...

FYI Figgie -- they only plug into OBD-II cars. They check it for emissions-related codes, but they also get the tach signal directly from the ECU...and they also check for emissions at 15 and 25mph under load with a standard sniffer setup. The cool thing about it is that it's pretty easy to...

A "standalone" ECU is basically a stripped-down version of the stock computer. They generally only control fuel delivery and spark timing and they're capable of controlling those functions for virtually any engine. They're not engineered to work with every other part of the car like the stock...

You can post pretty much whatever you want here regarding standalone ECUs. :) As to your question...short of finding a shop that has a map for a setup that's identical to yours (and is willing to part with it), IMO, you would be best off to tune it as much as you can -- driveability-wise --...

There was a certain top-level Hinda guy who did this a few years back using the rear wheel speed (on a FWD car, this is direct road speed) vs. boost...he pretty much owned the deal for the first half of the season until someone figured it out and they wrote a rule outlawing it. The only thing I...

"Absolute Pressure" (PSIA) is not relative to ambient or atmospheric pressure, it's the pressure relative to zero. The "absolute" pressure at sea level is approximately 14.7psi. "Gauge pressure" (PSIG) at sea level would be "0". 10psi of manifold pressure at seal level would be...

Sometimes however, the air/fuel is supposed to be "jumpy". I tune for how it drives and performs, not how the gauge behaves. :) Get the throttle response as smooth and crisp as you can in the map, then go to the throttle/TPS enrichments. You can get it pretty dialed for progressive...

I haven't messed with it at all. I do WOT tuning by power only...I don't really care much what the ECU thinks of what I do. :D In order to do any sort of closed-loop tuning or analysis, you really need to tune it first to figure out what the engine wants in terms of fuel at what part of the...

It always helps if you offer them rides. You'd be surprised what you can get away with when they "buy in". :D

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/AEM_EMS_Guidebook/Methods_of_tuning ^^^^^^^^ that?^^^^^^^^^^^^ Uhhh...I don't tune that way...I generally tune based on performance and driveability, rather than how the map is laid out...or trying to get a certain air-fuel ratio everywhere. :) Honestly...I...

To ME...I would see that as an indication that you're a tad rich in the cranking fuel. I would knock it down a touch and see if you can get it started with less throttle. When it's right, it should start with no throttle at all.

That coolant map does go both ways, right? :D You should be doing most of your tuning with the main map, then do the tweaking in the coolant map. If it's too lean on startup, just bump up the first row of cells...the 0-500 numbers. It's not likely that it would need *more* fuel at 120*...

You should have a coolant temp map...just add or subtract it there at the appropriate temps. The Stinger is a little different than most ECUs, in that cranking fuel is tuned from the map...so if you need more cranking fuel, just add it at the edge of the map and tweak it for temp in the coolant...

The first thing to do is figure out whether it doesn't want to start due to being too rich or too lean. One thing I do when I can...when the ECU allows it...is to use the cranking fuel vs. throttle function like a fuel trim. I generally set it up as a slope, from sorta rich at closed to...

I was just bugging Aaron last night to start a Stinger thread. :D Thanks! What is the problem you're having with cold starts?