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If you're losing the ground on the fuel pump relay, it's either the ground (the wires themselves) or the thing that switches the ground on (the ECU). You gotta roll up your sleeves and do a little of that good-old basic troubleshooting. Look for other ECU-controlled (pull-to-ground) circuits...

I'm sure you can apply power to a couple of the power wires and force it to close.

You might wanna hit up Aaron................

The stock IAC is probably part-way open. The Stinger won't run that type of IAC directly, so unless you want to convert it to a 2-wire type, you'll need to block it off and set the idle with the idle stop screw.

If the ECU turns off...it can really ony be one of two things...the positive wire or the negative wire. That could mean a bad ECU for sure (those two circuits go all the way inside)...but if it shuts off on its own, that shouldn't be hard to track down.

I know you'd probably like to hear that there's something exotic and AEM-specific that's doing it...but it's likely just a loose wire somewhere. Maybe a loose ground connection.

If it's just a re-chipped/re-flashed stock ECU that's not programmable by the end user...then it's not really a standalone...is it? FWIW -- having someone "tune" your car from a distance is a waste of time at best.

Those re-worked factory ECU setups are not exactly "user-friendly" to tune.

That's pretty funny...you have that ASE certified deal on your profile...LOL...when I was talking to you, I was @ the ASE test. :D I just did electrical and engine performance...I'll probably do a couple more in the fall.

There you go...LOL

You can make a plug-in adapter harness for pretty much any ECU if you want. It doesn't matter whether you consider your particular ECU to be "high end", any standalone will run...well..."stand alone", or use existing wiring. Like you said, it's neater to use a new harness, but that has...

It's the adapters... Some USB adapters work with some ECUs and some don't. I would contact AEM and ask them which adapters have been tested to work. OTOH, you can buy a suitable used laptop with a serial port for 100-200 bucks. I bought one a while back (for the dyno) from Craig's list...

I'm going to try and keep all the threads together under the same heading...so I merged your post with the existing (several) threads.

I was just wondering...

Not looking to start anything here...well...maybe I am...LOL You can easily make your own maps that will easily be as good as a map you get from someone else's setup. Why would you want to use someone else's? Unless your combo is identical to theirs, it likely won't be any better than what...

The GT is 1795 racer net. The Stinger is 950-ish. There's a pretty big difference between the two, hardware-wise, plus it needs a different crank trigger pattern and sensor. The stinger is the best cheap ECU I've ever seen...for the money, you can't beat it...it does have some limitations...

We have to get into the harness and see what we can accomplish with an adapter harness. If it's similar to the setup that Aaron does with the Stinger...and it should be...I would hope to keep it below $2500 for the unit, crank sensor parts (bolt-in), necessary sensors, adapter harness and...

I was just talking about that with them last week. They said that they might actually do it with the new software...that and I hope they get rid of that "write protect" deal where you can only edit a map when you have a copy and do a real write protect where you can just check a box and use a...

Their sensor is really nice...very durable and reasonably priced. I've used it with several other types of ECUs. I'm doing the buy-in with Electromotive and BigAaron and I are working on a plug-in setup for the 1J swaps he does over there.

FYI: In case anyone is interested, I'm having some crank sensor adapters made. I'm making them for use with a 1/2" Electromotive sensor. They're going to bolt into the stock location, retained by the original bolt and they're going to have a "pinch" mount that will allow you to set the...