Hey guys, hope this isn't a stupid question but I was wondering if a 89+ climate control is plug and play with the wiring from an 88. And if it is, how do you do the LED bulb replacement? I've heard of many guys doing this and was wondering if it made that big of a difference or what. Thanks
Jake
I want to replace my catalytic converter with a test pipe in order to save the cat. I don't like spending $200 whenever I have to smog the car so I would like to just keep it good until smogtime rolls around. Problem is that I have an O2 sensor after the cat so I don't know if the test pipe is...
The red circles whould be filled by the same type of allen bolts like the blue circles. They hold down the spark plug valley cover aka Valve Cover 3 (I think). So you should have 4 more bolts with the allen wrench end in it with a valley cover. I'm not sure about your coolant problem. I'd put...
I had heard that they were yield and shouldn't be used twice. I reused stock bolts on a 7GE and they loosened up so I went with ARP bolts. I wouldn't get studs unless you are thinking of going turbo later on because they are a little overkill.
My 2 cents.
Where can I get new shock top mounts? I don't this is it because it had the same rattle before I put the new shocks on. I'll retorque the subframe connectors and check out the brakes next. Any other ideas?
The shock top mounts are very tight now and the rattle is still there. Nothing below the wood is loose as I tightened everything up and the hatch isn't loose either. What is supposed to be the torque for the subframe connectors? Any other ideas? This is driving me crazy!!
Shocks are Tokicos with 5,000 on them. What is the torque for the rear subframe fasteners? What are the top shock mounts? That rubber that meets the top of the shock?
So my car has been rattling in the rear passenger wheel for some time now but it seems to be getting louder and louder. Now the rear driver side is rattling too. I've checked all the stuff that is right there in front of me after I took the wheels off but there isn't any play in anything and...
I don't believe that the red one in the end is the finished project.
http://englishrussia.com/images/latvian_mercedes/22.jpg
In that pic you see the red one up ahead of it. It seems like too much of a jump from no paint with foam everywhere to finished.
I can use my cell phone maybe but it won't be very good quality. I'm not sure if the resonator will restrict it that much but it will restrict it more than regular pipe so I went without it. I think a cherry bomb glasspack would be a good resonator because it is pretty simple and won't restrict...
I posted earlier that I run a 2.5'' Flowmaster for an NA and I'm not using any resonator. They restrict air flow so I went without one and it isn't too loud. It's a good sounding rumble so a resonator can be for personal taste I think.
It's probably not the entire Heater Control Valve just the actuator that has the plug coming out of it. You can get one at a junk yard for around $5. They are pretty sensitive and go out pretty easily.
I have 18s on 245/45 with +40 offset and mine are rubbing on sudden dips or hard turns. I am using Illumina 2 with Eibachs. What can I do to help fix this?
So I put on some new springs and struts which are Tokico Illuminas and Eibachs. I'm running 18 wheels and I'm not sure on the spec of the tire but I can post that soon. So when I hit a bump or crank the wheel the front ones rub. Question is how I can avoid that besides getting a different wheel...
Seeing that your signature says that you have a 7mgte, you are probably in the wrong forum. If you are talking about an 7mge then we need to know what it looks like or where its at on the harness.
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