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Wolf V500 I think... I can't really see any advantages of the Autronic SM4 over the V500, except knock sensing... Although the Autronic engineers are really responsive, had a few communications with them via email.. I sent the Wolf guys an email last week and didn't get a response. :(

Yep but you can also get them pre-built...

Cool :) I might have a look around to see what other aftermarket knock sensing systems are available... surely one of them has an 'aux output' which I can use to hook into the Wolf without having to muck around with it.

Oh really? that's interesting... so I could get an aftermarket knock sensing system and hook it up as an aux input on the Wolf?

Mwuhahah! Ripped off the intake manifold yesterday and fixed up the leaking coolant hose (clamped that sucker down TIGHT!)... I drove the WHOLE way to work this morning without any sign of timing retardation or code 52 lights :D That's the first drive of the car in 3 weeks which hasn't resulted...

Still no knock sensing/knock control :(

Hehe, it's only 10pm here. What on earth are YOU doing up at 4am?! Thanks, I hope its an easy fix too!

Oooooooohhhhhhhh!! My cables look perfect (of course, I made them! ;)).... but when I unclipped the connector from the front sensor, i discovered it was somewhat wet and slimey. As far as I can tell, the coolant pipe on the bottom of the lower intake manifold is leaking coolant on to the knock...

I agree in theory, Allan.. but I'm not loving the Supra at the moment. Harsh words, I know, but every time I drive it I find myself getting angrier and angrier at it. :( I'll pick up a larger (20mm?) socket+wrench tomorrow and see if I can get the wheels and balljoints off tomorrow. If I don't...

So I've re-wired and got two new sensors... the only other thing that could be bad is the ECU. I will confirm that my new wires are OK and then start complaining about the ECU :)

I might rip it all out and make sure the cables are in good condition.

I was under the impression more knocking in the engine won't cause a code 52, only a short circuit in the knock sensor wiring or a faulty knock sensor or ECU? In relation to other questions: 98 octane premium unleaded. Haven't tried changing fuels. No I don't have an EGR system. I don't...

I have new lowers sitting here waiting to go in, I wasn't planning on replacing the uppers. (how do you know if they need replacing? I can get a very slight movement out of them when I try to move them...) I'm giving up for now. I don't even have the right size socket/tool to get my wheels off...

I also hooked an osciliscope up to KNK1 and KNK2 terminals on the ECU, and saw a pretty consistent flicker up to almost 1 Volt. I'm not sure what I'm meant to be seeing there...

OK, So I had a code 52 for a while... I did the knock-sensor rewire since I figured my wires were shot. The code 52 disappeared for a while and the car was running nice. ...It's now come back. It's intermittent. I can't _make_ the car get a code 52 by revving hard or boosting lots, but...

:D

Didn't really answer my question though ;) So can I just unbolt them and pull them out without removing any other parts?

Doh, just found more in the TSRM - it says I need to remove the calipers, rotors, tie rod ends and whole steering knuckle. Is that all really neccessary to get the balljoints out?

OK I'm confused. The TSRM says to remove the balljoints I have to: 1. Remove steering knuckle 2. Remove upper control arm 3. Remove ball joint It doesn't give instructions on how to remove the steering knuckle, but it does give instructions on removing the upper control arm, and the first part...

If I have the front of the car jacked up, wheels off the ground, how hard should it be for me to turn the wheels by hand? Someone's told me that it should be difficult, but I seem to be able to turn mine easily.