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I guess you have checked your engine mounts lately? GT40 power easily distupts engine mounts, and the engine will be all over the place underneath the bonnet.

Hard to diagnose, but it's a 6-wire stepper motor. Follow this guide to see if it works. http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/42947521/M-REL%20-%206%20Wire%20Idle%20Speed%20Control%20Valve%20%28ISCV%29%20Wiring

2jz ecu is set up for bigger injectors than 1jz, and different knock frequency due to the different engine size. 2JZ is also sequential injection, 1j is semi sequential. ECU and harness must match the engine, or you are just gambling. Auto-ecu's needs special tweaking regarding Neutral...

I tried to get my hands on a X90 body harness diagram for 6 months. No luck. Had to go the custom way, and trace each cable to each destination...... the JZZ30 harness diagram is not even close to the x90.

buy some sard injectors that are high-z for GTE-engines. fits straight into stock fuel rail. google it.

If you do some google with compressor maps, you'll be able to calculate how the compressor will behave on your engine. I think you'll find the S366 to be a very efficient and suitable turbo for your 700hp goal.

From memory, the injector wires split to pair when the harness leaves the firewall. Thats where you need to add the 3 extra wires to your EMS for full sequential.

1JZ is wired in batch. You might be thinking of 2JZ (2J's are sequential) As pr wiring: (See lower LH side for injectors)

I think you might got it a bit wrong. Low Z behaves similar to High Impedance once resistors have to be installed. You need to run without resistors, and have high current "peak&hold" drivers to get any advantage of the Low-Z's. It's the high current consumption that gives the low Z it's...

Yes, you need only 3 more wires. but the DM patch harness needs to be re-pinned to match cylinder firing order, and the 3 extra wires needs to run outside the patch harness directly to the AEM.

the DM 1jz box is modified by DM to be a full sequential unit for both Fuel and spark. Especially since the non-VVTI JZ igniters needs 6x ignition signals from the ecu to work on the stock wiring (one signal for each cylinder). On a OEM 1J harness, the injectors are though wired for...

2jz box vs Honda (1jz) box: - 12 Peak&Hold Injector drivers vs. 12 saturated drivers (Peak&hold can handle Low-Z injectors, saturated cant run low-Z without resistor pack). - 6 ignition channels vs 4 ignition channels... but the honda unit can "open up" two extra ignition channels but requires...

Why go low impedance? Thats old school stuff!! Any new decent injector today is High impedance, and still offers very nice control at low PW. ID injectors are all 8,5 to 12 ohms, and have excellent characteristics. The other key to good low load fuel control is full sequential injection = 1...

Correct. Install the ring in between the Y-pipe and the downpipe. A good starting point is 50mm hole as a "std" restrictor. Then you can make another one in 55mm to try how that works...and revert to the std 50mm if it did not work out. The size of the restrictor is a bit related to how...

you will need a resistor ring, even with a 3" catalytic converter.

AFR's should not be affected by the reduced fuel pump voltage. Why: Fuel pressure should remain constant due to the low fuel demands in Idle, even if the fuel pump voltage is lowered. The design is quite genius actually.

Picture number 6. You can see the wire to the Coolant valve, attatches to the "door hinge" if I remember correctly. The door should be right in that area.

Electrical motors moves the doors form my memory. Controlled by the AC panel itself. On other cars, the panels are usually moved by a vacuum system. On the x90 its electrical, as far as I remember.

As the stock o2 is a narrow band, it's just active while the engine is in Closed loop (Typical for cruise and idle conditions). sounds like your wideband shows deviations at one of the Closed Loop areas... idle is supposed to be 14,5-15,0 AFR. WOT and cruise afr's look ok I would try to...

The doors can be done manually by removing the glove box and passenger foot panels. Sounds like your heater core flow is ok if lines get hot while moving the valve.