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+1 for boost cut IMO. 4'th gear is where you usually experience some minor over-boost, even with a stock engine. And a minor over-boost at 13psi sends you right into boost cut. 1-2 and 3 gear does not load the 1J enough to generate an over-boost. Tip: Use the highest octane rating available...

Correct. Do not cap it off, It makes the engine harder to vent and affects the cooling inside the engine.

I regret that I removed the heater core in my JZX. I was thinking - It's a motorsport car, Heater core will never be used. And then the rain came during an event - And I didn't see anything due to my foggy windscreen. No electric substitute can heat enough air to clear the windscreen -...

You can use both -3 and -4. But the bigger feed you have, requires a good returnline. I've seen too many failures due to a poor returnline. It's important that the oil easily gets back to the engine.

Sounds like a valve lifter to me, as it "vanishes" when RPM increases. Rod knock usually follows RPM's, it sounds like this doesn't.

Probably a great opportunity to go 1,5JZ with N/A compression and low boost. I've seen such great results with 1j head on 2J N/A bottom end, super magnificent spool times and great torque. But, single turbo and standalone ECU is required, and I think you need some new rods to support the new power.

EFR is great stuff. The main competitor to the Garrett GTX-series. Very wide and nice flow-charts. But, it's an expensive turbo. I know team Need For Speed use EFR on their Scion TC in Formula D. It's not a JZ engine, but it's got some really nice punch.

Yeah, the fact that it is changing in resistance suggest "correct" operation. It is interesting what the stock values are supposed to be for that sensor. It might give you a clue.

Hmm..you are measuring at the Fan ECU pins right? 4K ohms at cold engine?

The Hydrofan ECU has a very simple task - Start the fan when the radiator is hot. It's got its own temp.sensor on the radiator itself for this, usually on the RH side of the radiator. Is this the one you checked? It does not use any of the sensors on the engine itself. It's got its own on the...

X90 body harness has nothing familiar with either soarer or the supra. I started out checking my harness with a meter IAW the soarer and the JZA70 diagrams, and absolutely nothing was correct. Ended up stripping the entire oem Engine and dash-harness, a 2 day job. I wanted the OEM speed-gauge...

As said by thevork - Oem 2J sensor is made by Denso. (and is a 1,2 bar MAP sensor). Aftermarket 2BAR Denso MAP sensors sounds very rare. Do you have the Denso part-number on your sensor? That will probably link you to a 1JZ or 2JZ - as a direct replacement for the OEM one.

2J and 1J map sensors are the same (just different physical design), so no change in boost cut there. you need FCD to bypass the boost cut... and you should use it in combination with a Wideband oxygen sensor so you know you're not running lean. In short terms: the ECU fuel and ignition...

I think I know what's wrong. You are firing off the coils with a Trailing edge signal - Right? But 99% av all LS and LQ coils needs LEADING edge trigger signal to work properly. The picture below explains the difference inbetween Leading vs Trailing edge. In a very simplified way...

My act needed to be used in "city traffic" for some time to be good. But it's all about the work done to the flywheel..smooth flywheel results in a a smooth engagement. I got mine machined flat. .had to take offaabout 1mm..

What dwell values are you using? My experience is that many LS coils from LS7 generation and newer "auto fires" if dwell exeeds 4ms. This is for self protection. Commanded timing will not be correct if this happens, and usually you will se "spark advance" while reving the engine. (detonation...

Agree on the feedback by hvyman there. Timing is difficult to get correct without some measuring equipment for torque (Dyno). Try to get a safe tune first, and make sure you dont have any issues with your install (missfires etc). Then you can take it to the dyno to optimize the tables. A good...

check the hose between your intake manifold an MAP sensor. It's probably bad or loose.

Check for continuity from the safc2 tps input, to the respective pin on the TPS itself. BTW: Safc is not a good tool to tune with. The ECU will over some time adjust the fuel mixture, making your SAFC tune useless. So prepare yourself to change the tune frequently.

IGF is a "spark generation confirmed" signal to the ECU from the Igniter on JZ ECU's.... guess UZ uses it for the same purpose. No IGF-signal on a standard toyota ECU = CEL (minimum)