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Congrats!

I'd check the alternator. I had an alternator die on me and both the brake and battery lights were on. Caused a no start too. I had a MAJOR electrical problem (not saying that you do) and I think it fried the voltage regulator, diodes, etc. It was pretty bad. It it's not the alternator...

Hmmm...good question. I don't know if they do. Does everything else work (radio, headlights, etc)?

The battery and brake light combo are indicative of a short somewhere...or perhaps a bad alternator. You may want to check your battery also (I had a battery run down to 5V and when I put the key in the ignition only the brake light came on - no battery light. Nothing else worked due to the...

Here's a pic of the offending rivet on the Cometic prior to removal.

I'm just about done with my second rebuild (finishing off things that I didn't do during my first rebuild years ago). I'm a novice too and am trying to learn as much as possible about the AEM. I have all my wiring complete and should be ready to try starting her up in about a week or so...

ditto on the puller. I used that to replace my tie rods. So easy.

Hard to say as we don't know what brand the ebay kit has. Any way of finding out? One thing I notice about the ebay kit is that it shows an oil pan gasket whereas the 7M uses FIMG. Makes me wonder about the kit. As far as timing belt manufacturers for the 7M I know of Gates, Greddy, and of...

FWIW, my car has a build date of 02/89 and my head casting number is 9.

A few folks believe that the stock damper wears over time, specifically the internal 20+ year old rubber. This can make the damper less effective. Considering how important the damper is, I decided to replace it. There isn't much of a price difference between a new stock one and the ATI, so I...

I used to have a burgundy NA so I feel your pain with the interior color :). I'm not a fan of seat covers, I think they look half baked so to speak. hvyman, I used leatherseats.com to re upholster my blue seats, changing them from cloth to leather (Im not a huge fan of the blue interior either...

I'd look at the cap first, maybe it's bad. If it still persists, I'd take a close look for a possible leak in the system (it doesn't take much to get some air in there). If that looks good, I'd also burp the cooling system just in case you have some air trapped in there.

Ah, ok. Thanks. Since I'm not stock anymore, this sticker won't be used.

As part of my rebuild I'm trying to get all the OEM stickers in the engine bay. I'm stumped as to where this sticker goes. The EPC isn't very clear on where each "plate" as they call it goes. Anyone know?

Iwannadie, just like IJ my ATI had timing marks. Very nice too - a full 360* with TDC mark.

Awesome. Nice build you have going there.

I'd just do the boiling technique. I think the damper is balanced and specifically made to fit extremely tightly. Any honing may negate some of the design benefits. It really wasn't that bad to install, especially when you use the crank bolt to help get it on the rest of the way.

Surprisingly, no. The sticker remained intact. I don't know if you'll have to press out the hub. Mine came already attached as one unit, so I didn't remove anything to install.

I recently installed my ATI damper and it came in two pieces: the damper assembly and the third belt pulley for the A/C. After I installed the damper I then installed the outside A/C pulley. To install, I did exactly what Rakkasan says: I boiled the damper for approx 30 minutes, put anti seize...

I don't know if you found the answer yet but I just installed one. The lower (angled) bracket on the damper screws into two empty bolt holes on the subframe. You'll probably need to clean them out by running an M8x1.25 tap since they are typically full of gunk. The 90* bracket on the damper...