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Good info, thanks for posting the link.

Deleted due to double-post. Odd...

The housing is the same for all years to the best of my knowledge. IIRC there is a difference between pre-89 and 89+ speedometers (gear changes?), and the tach is specific to N/A or Turbo applications. Other than those I think all the gauges should be usable for any and all years of the MkIII.

The lower glass trim piece, fits right at the base of the glass. It has 4 bolts and 2 plugs. The bolts and the plugs originally came with neoprene washers, but they deteriorate over time and aren't available through Toyota unless you buy the trim piece itself. The washers from Home Depot are...

Debating removing my hatch wiper and welding in a patch for it, but I haven't really driven it enough in rain to know if that wiper makes a big difference. I know the hatch would look cleaner without it, and was wondering who might have already pulled their hatch wiper out and if they miss the...

Finally got around to putting new neoprene washers on the lower trim piece on the hatch. Either they're working really, really well and didn't leak when it rained like hell for around 15 minutes this afternoon, or they did leak but the water evaporated before I clocked out. If anyone is...

Mine as well. Haven't installed it yet as I'm still working with sound-deadening material. Hate that I didn't get some custom floor mats back when you could get them on Ebay, but oh well.

Nice work getting those wheels back in shape, they do look good. How much was the reconditioning?

My '88 turbo is doing the exact same thing, has been for over a year now. But it's only at certain speeds/RPM levels... ~40 mph or ~1700 rpm. Throwing code 12, so I'm trying to decide if I've CPS or CPS wiring issues.

Color code on that is 21C (for the lighter bottom half of the car) and 24D (a darker shade on the bottom half).

Quick question about the hatch trim, lower piece. Are there supposed to be grommets or anything on the hatch itself for the pins and bolts to go through to help keep water out? I know about the neoprene washers/gaskets which go on the pins and bolt bases, but is that all there is to the piece...

Okay then, that's the biggie I suppose as I really didn't trust that it was correct the way it was. Now I've just got to decide how to wire it up. I'm hoping the only problem is in the wiring/connectors and not the CPS itself. Thanks for the info and the pics.

Granted, 3 of them are then tied/crimped into a single wire before it gets to the connector, but that seems very, very strange. The picture I'm posting shows all the wires, and what appears to be a bad joint or at least overheated joint where the 3 brown wires are tied together. The car is...

The trim pieces are indeed still available (for some of the windows and glass in any case) from dealerships, though as other posters noted it's not cheap. An alternative that some owners use is to strip all the coating off their existing trim pieces and then paint the trim.

I use the Meguiars vinyl cleaner and conditioner on the dash and the vinyl parts of the door panels. Seems to work well on both.

Nothing really special, installed a new blower motor and reset the breaker for it (thanks go out to Dick Lambert for his writeup on R&R'ing the motor and especially the existance & location of the breaker for it).

For those following the Tokico Trail, I found an update online about Hitachi getting Tokico shocks back in stock at it's distributors... http://www.performanceracing.com/news/motovicity-tokico-sign-master-distribution-agreement-us Says Tokico's (though not Illumina II's specifically)...

I'd use some of the 3M seal adhesive on the rear of the rails, works well and lasts. From where you say the water is coming in that's my bet as to what the problem is, water getting behind the rails.

Ah, one of the classic Supra conundrums, the infamous voltage drop in the starter/ignition circuit. I have yet to firmly isolate where it's dropping off at in my '88, so I've just wired in a temporary switch to supply extra power directly to the starter when it won't crank with the ignition...

Where precisely is it leaking? If it's over the doors, then it could be your drip rails that the seals attach to on the sides. If that's the case replacing the seals won't solve the problem, you'll need to remove the rails, clean them up, and apply new sealer when you re-install them...