I've only ever driven one Supra, mine, and I've noticed that the accelerator is fairly "heavy", takes a decent amount of effort to press. Is that usual for our Supra's? Most of the other imports I've driven had pretty "light" pedals, easy to press, so I'm wondering if maybe my cable is binding...
You'll need to loosen the front end of the starter (but not necessary to remove the starter) in order to get to that KS. Virtually impossible otherwise.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the TSRM specified using a sealant in a couple of places on the valve cover gaskets.
Edit: Went back and checked, and it calls for a sealant (FIPG probably) on both sides of each cam-rise at the front of the valve cover to prevent oil leaks there.
Definately on the pics. Some of the other guys have dealt with spun bearings before and will know better than me how to gauge how much damage has really been done, AND if they're worth salvaging.
Glad you and your son are okay, as that looks to have been one hell of an impact.
I'm in Alabama visiting the in-laws right now, down in E'prise till heading home on Sunday. Anything I can do to help you out?
A spun bearing may have done some damage to the crank, but nothing that's not fixable by doing a regular inspection and at least a partial rebuild on the bottom of the engine. Unless something else cut loose in there, you're not in too bad shape.
Cygnus has diagrams of most if not all of what you're looking for.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/engine.aspx
Without a pic I can't say for sure, but the line under your intake could be for one of the VSV's, or if larger the bypass water line where it goes from the ISC to...
That's the 2nd time that I know of that Brakemasters has sent out rotors that wouldn't work (another poster on another board bought them). In the other case they wouldn't work because the overall diameter of the rotor was too large and rubbed against the inside of the caliper. Maybe poor...
90401-22004 should be it. Might want to pick up the gaskets (2, 90430-22008) to go with it. It isn't much but it is dealer only to the best of my knowledge.
My opinion (fwiw) would be to start with the exhaust and then move on to other things. Big return performance-wise for a relatively small investment right there, and a quality 3" setup will be fine for whatever else you decide to upgrade on the engine later.
Before I went to a larger turbo...
Definately the wrong tree. I didn't catch that when I first read his post. I only recently got finished pulling my tb and upper intake off to find those vsv wires. Neither was connected, and the car would most assuredly run. Heck, only one ks was hooked up and neither vsv was. It's still got...
Go to the Wanted section here, ask if someone has a hacked-up wiring harness laying around that they would be willing to sell you the plug and wiring for the VSV. As many wiring harness that end up in pieces over time there's bound to be somebody who has what you need, and it'll be cheaper than...
Check your wiring to the sm. You've got the primary harness which plugs into the brain box down by the brake pedal. Then you've got the wiring from the brain box to the display, and to the keyboard. As best I remember the old clock plug isn't used after changing out the display for the sm.
I personally prefer the recirculated DDP's. You get a lot of the benefit of a divorced dp and not as much noise as you get from an open pipe.
The flex section is a good thing to have as well imo, as it helps allow the system to move somewhat, a little insurance from sustaining damage at...
Looks pretty good. Question... what would the possibilities be to do it in a somewhat thicker clear acrylic or lexan, paint it black, then run it through the routing process and mount some low intensity led's behind it. The routed/engraved sections would be interesting if they caught the light...
Probably the missing turn signal is going to be the hardest part to locate. They're pretty rare here in the US, and not real common even in the UK though they do crop up from time to time. The engine might be expensive to get, but not that hard to find. The rest shouldn't be any big deal at...
Yeah, it's a two-port vacuum valve, the idle-up valve for the PS unit I think is what it's called. One line connects on the bottom of the accordion, the other runs to a hardline across the front of the engine and then to the vacuum piping underneath the intake. Don't believe that it really...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.