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Thanks alot, the Zeitronix looks like exactly what I'm looking for. I didn't realize it was so powerful since its fairly cheap. The software interface looks really good and it has tons of user inputs. The little things add up quick though (pressure sensor, lcd etc.) Bishop, that's cool to know...

The A/F gauge is reading off the stock O2 sensor which gives a narrowband signal. Meaning it is either going to read rich or lean, not give accurate A/F readings. It ends up being a pretty light show. For the gauge to be useful you need to send it a wideband signal, so it can actually track...

If it was a flat piece of metal torqued really tight I guess in theory it would work. But don't the mhgs have rings around the cylinders and passages? There's no way they would seat right. If you can afford all those other high end parts, why would you skimp on something so simple?

I am sick of going to dyno everytime I need to re-tune. For the cost of a few visits I could buy my own wideband and learn to tune myself. I know most of the widebands have extra data-logging inputs so I can track other things. It seems to do any non-real time tuning I'd need to know my RPM...

Car dollies from U-haul are like $50, I've needed them plenty of times :D. You can ask around on alabamaracingscene to see if anyone would lend you a trailor for the day though. Let us know when your going to dyno, I'd like to see it for sure.

I'll be there again, but no racing for me. The supra is a boat. I'll just be speccing with the other ARS guys.

I have no problems with the 5 button. Very easy to tune to a smooth A/F curve. Not sure about the 1 button though.... The SAFC2 is fancier and has some bells and whistles (ie. stop from running rich on throttle let-off). For just A/F tuning the 5 button works fine.

Part 3:Cleaning Up, Reinstall, Break In Note: By now I was covered in gross and very few pictures were taken, :<. Alright this section is up to you. Read your results and make a smart decision. All my bearings were in clearance except for the 2 that were destroyed. The crank journal was still...

Part 3:Cleaning Up, Reinstall, Break In Note: By now I was covered in gross and very few pictures were taken, :<. Alright this section is up to you. Read your results and make a smart decision. All my bearings were in clearance except for the 2 that were destroyed. The crank journal was still...

Kind of a side question, but i have some valve ticking as well. Also when the car has been sitting, and I start it I get a puff of blue smoke. I assumed it was the valve stem seals leaking, since it doesn't smoke when I get hard on it. Before I rebuild the head should I try to set the valve lash...

18psi on retorqued headbolts on stock HG has worked for me so far. As mentioned anything is possible with a good tune. Detonate and it won't last.

If you setup your paypal account to accept credit cards they will take 3% off the top.

I can't imagine the rotor coming down and not breaking/cutting off your hand. Your very lucky! I guess a valuable lesson was learned, factory jacks are for emergencies only. I hope your hand and rotor have no permanent damage.