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One of us is cornfuzed. Maybe this will help: 1) Codes are stored regardless of whether the MIL stays lit. 2) Only "hard" faults will keep the MIL on. If the problem fixes itself the light will go off. 3) This doesn't apply to code 51 3) 52 is the only code that will keep the MIL lit until...

Most aftermarket radios have an antenna control output along with an illumination input. Just hook that up.

Depends on the available current. I've TIG welded using a car battery. Not the problem here though.

Not arcing, I2R. Just sayin'.

Stock does have plugs for both. On my aftermarket Pioneer DVD/NAV deck I tried the GM adapter but went back to the power antenna because the diversity didn't work as well. That said it depends on where you live. In BFE the glass usually won't cut it. Not that there's any BFE where you're from...

No filter? Just the AFM exposed? If so I hope it's not in the stock location near the cooling fan...

Not that I think your AFM is bad but you're not testing the part of it that really matters by doing the above. Second, many of these engines run lean at idle. Why care? You don't drive it there.

My opinion is your over thinking has gone from bad to worse...

^ What he said. Check rest pressure. As for the FPU solenoid being hard to get you're over thinking it. Just pull the hose off the FPR and check for a lack of vacuum within 90 seconds of a hot start.

You be welcome. As the schematic shows the pump also runs during cranking because airflow through the AFM is low and may be insufficient to get things going. Once the engine fires and the key is released the AFM takes over.

There's a switch in your vane style AFM. Follow the dark green wire: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=57 All "modern" EFI systems are required by regulation to prevent fuel flow after a collision. Of the many ways to accomplish that Toyota chose this one for...

Just so you you know 22210D isn't the p/n. Click on it to get the real one.

It does. There's normally a short piece of hard pipe between the two that runs down behind the manifold but it often ends up missing.

Beliefs can impair judgment. For example believing you understand how a thing works, wiring is good, parts are OK because they're new, and knock has anything to do with setting this particular code. Until definitively proven otherwise they're just illusions in your head. Ooga-booga of the worst...

Ah well. There are none so blind as those who refuse to see...

A 22 indicates a short or open in THW. Since the ECU defaults to a hot coolant parameter in that case it's no surprise cold starts will be difficult.

Say what?

Here ya go: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=64

Dunning-Kruger at its finest...

At minimum an externally vented battery box (or use AGM) and run a ground back up to the block. Don't depend on the chassis.