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The clutch does not need the fans to be on although it may shut off after a while without them. Assuming the AC button illuminates check the 10 amp AC fuse, the 15 amp CIG fuse, and the dual pressure switch as there must be sufficient refrigerant in the system for it operate. And fwiw the small...

What Nick said. His use of them is entertaining. Also it's unlikely what the OP bought were true deep cycle. More likely a hybrid typically used in marine and cheap RV installations. They say "deep cycle" on them but aren't. True deep cycle (at least the smaller ones) are used in things like...

Deep cycle batteries. Now that's entertainment.

Missed this until now but 3p's answer is as good as it gets. Remember, all coolants are 90% glycol. It's the add pack that differs.

^ That's correct and a look at the fuel pump schematic shows why. Airflow through the engine at cranking speed can not be enough to close the vane switch so Toyota built in a work-around.

^ If that were true her pants would have been on fire...

Not that it matters now but I guess he missed that...

It's not the box. It's a simple problem with the simplest circuit on the car: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=078

I could be wrong but me thinks "trying things for fun" when electricity is involved isn't the best approach...

My advice is (usually?) spot on because I bought my car new and drove it daily for 25 years. I also possess a very technical background. That said yes, I'm not known for my tactful delivery. I'm also not known for spoon feeding folks. I expect them to make an effort. You among most should be...

Alternator relay? Where is that? Everything you need to know is here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/

They do not share the same source. One is ported while the other is not. Look at the schematic Nick provided. Better still use the EFI section of the book to read how the EGR system actually works.

You really ought to RTFM. Also it's very unlikely a bad EGR VSV will cause hard starting because the vacuum to it is ported.

From his other thread: "...My next endeavor while I am waiting for the switch, will be to take the AFM out and clean it with CRC Mass Airflow Cleaner, as I have seen some cases where a dirty AFM could cause a heat soaked engine to hard start. I know to be super careful to not touch the wires...

2006? Geez, I really should move on. The car is long gone. Yeah, THA is meaningless and unrelated to code 31. Resistance checks of the KS stuff are about as useful. Use the freq function of a good meter although a scope is better. There was some earlier talk about the OP cleaning the AFM. If...

Yep. FYI for next time: 1) Let the car sit until it bleeds off. Crude but effective. 2) Unplug the fuel pump relay and let the engine run it dry. 3) Pull a vacuum on the fuel regulator for 30 seconds. Imo that's the best way.

Won't be any leakage if you bleed the pressure off...

What happens when a logical and analytical thinker complicates things due to not understanding how a system works. The type pops up here from time to time and the result is always the same...lots of flailing around. That said I've never seen a faulty FPU solenoid alone cause that severe of a hot...

Lot of over complicating still going on here. Again, the VSV is easily tested without removal. It's nothing more than a 3 way solenoid valve. Any 12 vdc 3 way, automotive or not, will work if plumbed correctly. That said I doubt it'll solve your problem even if it is bad.

If you had cleared codes then the CPS ones were likely what triggered the light. After all faulty CPS wiring is a common issue on these cars. A few more points: 1) Many codes will not be set from just idling. The same applies for the MIL. Several parameters be met (rpm, temp, speed, etc)...