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Did you resolve that problem? A drop in fuel pressure during a snap throttle test indicates a restriction in the supply side. I gotta say, for someone with two years experience in automotive repair you sure have a strange way of approaching things...

Nothing a DMM wouldn't pinpoint...

If there's nothing else wrong with the engine it will start and run without the AFM although it won't idle all that well nor rev over 3000 rpm. In the past I've driven mine around with everything up to the throttle valve pipe missing. In fact made a video just to prove it could be done. The...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCfYWELLwZY :icon_bigg

Pinching the ISCV didn't do anything? That doesn't strike you as odd? And it can't be a vacuum leak. Not as long as you have the stock AFM on the engine.

Does it do this with the gas pedal held to the floor? If so your problem is TPS related. If not, pinch off the ISCV hose and see what happens.

Huh. That's powerful queer alright. Since you didn't mention in the first post the engine runs the advice about Vc was unnecessary. Second, externally checking the W circuit does involve grounding the engine side of the harness. As you can see by the schematic the MIL has 5 vdc on one side and...

Since removing those fuses should *prevent* the MIL from coming on it appears your wiring may be fubar. That said check the 5 volts (Vc) at any of the sensors. Or try unplugging them all. A Vc short to ground will paralyze the ECU.

Me too. Much better investment. I'd also buy the car and 250 pounds of Tannerite. That way we'd never have another thread about it...

Sigh. Cue the the slice 'o pie pic...

Could be but since all kinds of things happen at 500 rpm it'd be piss poor coding if STA was still being sampled past that. 3p probably knows. We need more info on what VTA is doing to rule it out. I can tell you this though: feeding a WOT VTA signal (appx 3.5 vdc) or plugging a spare TPS turned...

They were. At least mine was. At the time a decent chick magnet too. Good times...

Either you're explaining it wrong or your mechanic is clueless. What is the voltage of VTA with the TPS plugged in? And does the TPS spec out on resistance with it unplugged?

Well, you could rig any miniature normally closed switch. Radio Shack sells them assuming they're still in business. They been circling the drain for some time now. Or lots of other cars use similar switches. Should be easy to mouse it.

Assuming you can still get parts the pump can be rebuilt. Better to just replace it though. Flush the system well although with a faulty suction screen it may already be too late. No matter how it ends up install a Magnefine filter on the return line when done.

It lights when grounded so just disconnect the wire. Make sure it's not on for the other reason...the master cylinder is low

Unfortunately that applies to more than computers...

Agreed. What I meant by "how it works".

Of course your point of view makes sense to you but that doesn't mean it's technically correct. That said: 1) The proper way to rebuild the engine (except HG torque) is by following the service manual. That generally applies even when modifying. 2) The comment about needing aftermarket engine...

How can it have no vacuum upon start if it's connected directly to the intake manifold? In the factory configuration the FPU VSV is connected to the vacuum manifold with its source being the large port. When active the three way VSV prevents vacuum from reaching the FPR while at the same time...