I used high temp engine enamel. Masked off the lettering, sprayed on a few coats. Then used acytone on a paper towel wrapped around a piece of flat plastic to lightly skim off any excess paint from the top.
Be VERY careful with the acytone, it will eat the finish on the powder coating...
Glad to see you are taking care of what seems to be a well preserved car.
I'm always a fan of using genuine parts when able to but if what you say is true, finding an aftermarket replacement can't be that hard. I just checked RockAuto.com and they have two options for master cylinders with...
Here ya go. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=23
Just jump the two pins in the diagnostic box and count the flashes. A paper clip works well as a jumper.
If it has inspection plates in the bellhousing, you've got a r154 (turbo) tans. If not, it is a w58 (non-turbo) trans.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?127003-how-to-tell-between-a-w58-and-r154
Edit: Just realized this was asked well over a month ago. Oh well, hopefully it...
When replacing the distributor cap and rotor, do I need to reset the timing?
I doubt I would as it should all be in the same place as long as I don't remove the distributor completely.
Haha it is almost identical, I'll be painting the lettering and stripes too lol
I like what you did with the lettering on the coils. Are you going to be using a ffim?
Not the best idea at all.
The vsv is bolted below the lower intake runner and is a real bitch to get to. Unplugging it will cause issues with hot starts.
I subscribed to PMM a while ago. Glad to see you're working on the supra again.
This makes me think I should replace my valve stem seals on the old 7m. It started blowing blue on startup last year.
Our motors will end up looking very similar. I was planning on black NA valve covers with silver accents, wrinkle black intake/3000 pipe, and dg500 coils.
Personally I'd go with the NA valve covers. That's just my preference though.
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