877MGTEGUY;1927293 said:
Agreed. Can you describe the fabricating process, or do you have more pics?
OldCrappySupra - Wheels for my old bones
- Thread starter fromgehenna
- Start date
Agreed. Can you describe the fabricating process, or do you have more pics?
supraguy@aol;1927444 said:
Hi,
Here are some pictures of the process. It’s quite a simple thing to do if you have the basic skills for fabricating and using the needed machines (lathe and milling machine). I only have old fashion manual machines in use so getting the precision right is the hard part. Also don’t have my plans here so no dimensions but everyone can make their own dimensions….. just make it right.:biglaugh:
First I put the stock cam gear to lathe and center it with a dial indicator (front facing forward). Then I flatten the front facing surface and make the outer rim round (it’s not round as stock 0,2……0,24mm throw) and in precise dimension. Then I make the center hole bigger and in precise dimension. Now I can take the gear off and do the same procedure for the 2nd one.
You could remove the center on the stock cam gear completely and just leave enough material to the outer rim for the fasteners. This way the gear would not gain that much weight. Also you can use high grade aluminum for the center plate but since I did not have big enough bar at hand used steel. Also the fact that the pin hole is the only part taking the rotating forces you should heat treat the aluminum and then hard coat it.
All steel is the old school way. Toda and Jun use to make all steel gears for 7M but now they are collector goods so the price is high. There was one Toda set in sale at eBay some time ago.
Then I put a big enough round bar to lathe and make the front plate. The front plate is the piece that connects to the cam. Here is a picture of what this phase produces. There are 3 critical measurements in this phase. Outer rim, center hole (connects to cam) and center rim. Also took some material off so that when tightened only the surface next to fasteners will take contact (3th picture). This is a good way to make sure that it stays tight. The pin hole is done in next phase in milling machine.
Next I used the milling machine to make the pin hole, big holes, fastening holes and the adjustment grooves. First did the pin hole. After that I installed a turntable to the milling machine.
You need a turntable for the mill to do this right. Centering the turntable is crucial. It has to be with in 0,05…..0,1mm. So dial indicator is needed again. Then you have to get the gear centered as well. If you have a turntable that has self centering jaws it’s much faster. Then it’s quite easy job to do. First used 26mm end mill (center cutting) to make the big holes. Then 5mm end mill for the fastener holes and 6mm for the grooves.
Then just the threads need to be made. MF6x0.75 would be the best but used M6x1 since my 0.75 tap was lost…… loaned it to one of my pupils. Usually we only use standard metric taps so the MF taps are usually my own tools.
Ordered M6 titanium bolts for the cam gears. Light and strong.
Then it’s just finishing touches. Needle filing some sharp edges and light blasting all surfaces. Then you should do some corrosion preventing measures like black oxide or electro zinc plating. Going to black oxide since like them black. Don’t use paint since the tolerances are so small that it would not work.
Hope this helps.
Used the proces as an example for my pupils. So was able to combine work to making my own stuff.:naughty:
Black oxide done. Much better look than some aftermarket AEM or what ever aluminum space age neon color bling bling.:naughty: The world is black.
Progress has been very very slow. Initial thought was to get the car runnig this summer but events in life changed that. Living in two cities now since wife had a job from another city so weekends are now time that I spend there. So going but going slow.
Have spend some time at garege after work doing what I can. Painted the subframes using POR-15 stuff. One undercoat and two topcoats to all parts.
Some small stuff for oil and fuel systems on engine. Now everything would be ready for getting the engine in car.
More pictures : oldcrappysupra.blogspot.fi/
Have spend some time at garege after work doing what I can. Painted the subframes using POR-15 stuff. One undercoat and two topcoats to all parts.
Some small stuff for oil and fuel systems on engine. Now everything would be ready for getting the engine in car.
More pictures : oldcrappysupra.blogspot.fi/
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Finally some progress. Now the car is going back in one piece. Front and rear subframes are installed and also suspension parts and hubs and diff are in.
Made my own bushings for subframes. Shore A80 polyurethane. Mounting disk is from AISI316 steel that I pressed inform. Also installed energy suspension bushings in all controll arms.
Also installed all new bearings and longer wheel studs. All wheel alignment bolts are new.....old ones where realy badly stuck.
But again the progress stops here for some weeks........
Made my own bushings for subframes. Shore A80 polyurethane. Mounting disk is from AISI316 steel that I pressed inform. Also installed energy suspension bushings in all controll arms.
Also installed all new bearings and longer wheel studs. All wheel alignment bolts are new.....old ones where realy badly stuck.
But again the progress stops here for some weeks........
Slow progress.....Zzzzz
Quit my work at the end of last year and decited concentrade to my studyes. And since living in two cityes there has been no time for oldcrappy. Now I have a bad itch to get back working on it.:biglaugh:
Last autumn did some work on oldcrappy.... made a hardline for turbo oil drain. AN line was not working for me since the manifold is so low in enginebay. Since no longer has acces to tube bending machine had to use steelbraided lines for water lines.
Quit my work at the end of last year and decited concentrade to my studyes. And since living in two cityes there has been no time for oldcrappy. Now I have a bad itch to get back working on it.:biglaugh:
Last autumn did some work on oldcrappy.... made a hardline for turbo oil drain. AN line was not working for me since the manifold is so low in enginebay. Since no longer has acces to tube bending machine had to use steelbraided lines for water lines.
Little something.....
Small raise to ilde oil pressure and well trough out rev range. Small enough so squirtters stay closed in idle.
From 46 teeth stock to 42 teeth. No weight gain. No weakning welds. Easy instalment. Material is 6082 aluminum and pins are toolsteel.
Small raise to ilde oil pressure and well trough out rev range. Small enough so squirtters stay closed in idle.
From 46 teeth stock to 42 teeth. No weight gain. No weakning welds. Easy instalment. Material is 6082 aluminum and pins are toolsteel.
This is an awesome built. In for info about the oil pump overdrive pulley please.
Ho, and willing to buy an adaptor.
We get the same pulley on a shelf at a wrecker, but can't sort the original vehicle.
Ho, and willing to buy an adaptor.
We get the same pulley on a shelf at a wrecker, but can't sort the original vehicle.
The pulley is toyota 4e-fe engines camgear. There are some other toyota engines also that have 42 teeth pulleys but they are not wide enough. If you cant find it from a wrecker you can order new from toyota.
Yep. The adapter is made by me. I might be able to make couple of them after I get my graduation work done. So if there is some one interested let's see what we can do.
Yep. The adapter is made by me. I might be able to make couple of them after I get my graduation work done. So if there is some one interested let's see what we can do.
Question, Is there a reason you chose to increase the pump rpm vs just shimming the internal relieve spring in the pump? Shimming it usually brings the idle pressure up while keeping the pump speeds down. The only increase would be in the upper rpms which I didn't think was an issue.
Cool Fromgehenna thanks!
GC89: Shimming will not bring the idle pressure up. It will only bring max pressure up.
Increasing pump rpm increases flow and so idle pressure. you may read here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...7mgte-by-KMP&p=2045315&viewfull=1#post2045315
GC89: Shimming will not bring the idle pressure up. It will only bring max pressure up.
Increasing pump rpm increases flow and so idle pressure. you may read here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...7mgte-by-KMP&p=2045315&viewfull=1#post2045315
I disagree with his oil recommendations but there is still some good info. I also think that fromgehenna's pulley option is a much better retrofit. Shimming the pump can raise idle pressure slightly, it shouldn't under perfect (new component) conditions but I have seen it on both the stock as well as an aftermarket sender & gauge that is actually useful. I also disagree with his statements regarding pressure assumptions for the 7Ms oiling system design. The 7M's oiling system is a high volume low pressure system and while it has many points that need to be addressed substantially raising the oil pressure is not one of them. His oil recommendations along with the comment about engines with 4-5k redlines I would guess his background is in classic pushrod V8's which are a very different animal.
imo hot idle oil pressure should not exceed 10-15 psi
imo hot idle oil pressure should not exceed 10-15 psi
Got my graduation project done but my time is still occupied by this project - https://instagram.com/unveiled2015/ - http://unveiled2015.tumblr.com/post/:id/:summary
Hope to find some time to work on OldCrappy in coming weeks but only time tell's.
Goal is to get OldCrappy on road at the end of this summer........so wish me luck :biglaugh:
My graduation project - CORE, active sitting and standing support. Base is made from concrete, rest is steel, aluminum and fabric.
Hope to find some time to work on OldCrappy in coming weeks but only time tell's.
Goal is to get OldCrappy on road at the end of this summer........so wish me luck :biglaugh:
My graduation project - CORE, active sitting and standing support. Base is made from concrete, rest is steel, aluminum and fabric.