1JZ Build..HKS...Greddy..ACT..Chrome..You Might Like It.Dont Hate :)

gurley0916

Gurley=Last Name not girl
Mar 10, 2008
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Columbus,OH
Oh i didnt mean the engine bay I knew that I ment the little bolts on the rims and stuff like that. The weather is so harsh out there on cars with salt and what not. My 2j was shipped from New Jersey and I was shocked at what the salt did to the aluminum and stuff from sitting in their yard/ warehouse. So I cant imagine how cars look underneath back there. Car looks good though! I hope you have a different muffler for the car...that other one looks well...out dated :)
 

IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
I do plan on keeping the same color. I am not a fan of changing the engine bay color.

The bottom of this car has no rust and I will be undercoating it as well. I have a Burns muffler. :). Only weighs three pounds.

I will clean the bolts with my dremel tool and use POR 15 on the bolts only. Should look really nice.
 
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gurley0916

Gurley=Last Name not girl
Mar 10, 2008
1,138
0
36
Columbus,OH
IBoughtASupra;1705245 said:
\. I have a Burns muffler. :). Only weighs three pounds.

I will clean the bolts with my dremel tool and use POR 15 on the bolts only. Should look really nice.

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IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
I worked on the engine bay today. I removed the primer I sprayed on since it was just incase we had any rain to prevent rust. I cleaned up the bay with Prep All and then sprayed it with the base coat and primer in one. My local Auto Supply store can mix any paint you want or primer and add color to it. After I did that, I went through the bay to look for spots that will need fixing or smoothing out with some 1500 wetsand.

I know someone will comment on how the brake line holder was sprayed over but I could care less since I will be running full SS brake lines with much smaller and less noticeable bracket and if I did want to use it, ten seconds in paint thinner would clean it up. I kept the loom on the wires since it is easily replaceable than painted wires. :)

This coming Friday, I am hoping I will be able to work on the engine bay and get the exact color to match the body using my gas tank cover for a reference. I didn't get any pictures after I finished spraying the chassis rails. :(


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IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
gurley0916;1705860 said:
Looks great nice work :)

Thanks.

I still have to fix those lines and left sides next to the strut tower to make it look really nice. I want it to be smooth with no lines. Just a little wetsanding will do it and then I am going to clear and wetsand again with some nice hand rubbing compound to get it to shine. :)
 

IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
I had some custom lines made for me. Just simple -4 female ends on a braided hose, I had two made for my Tial blow off valve and AFPR. I know most people go -3 for that but I could not find a flat end -3 to have the other threads welded and machined to it, so a -4 had to work and it won't have a negative affect since it will provide a good vacuum and boost source as well. :D

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IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
Friday, I started to clean up the engine bay by tucking the main harness under the radiator support since I filled the holes that used the stock holders. I also painted the subframe and prepped the engine bay to be sprayed the next day.

On Saturday, I painted the engine bay, clear coat and started to clean up any over spray along with removing the masking tape. The only things that are left with blue on it are the rubber pieces that run along the fender, I have new ones. :) I installed the stainless steel brake lines in a nice position to make them show. I will need to have a total of four more lines made for a full conversion but for now, I will make a line to feed the rear brakes and one that goes a T-fitting which splits to the front brakes. I reinstalled the heater valve, mounted the alternator wiring, bolted on passenger side ground wire, installed the new non-ABS master cylinder, cut the hole to run the engine harness through and the installed then stainless steel braided clutch line. I also cut the old downpipe off that was used for the stock twins. If you want the dowpipe, shoot me an offer.
On Sunday, I took my time to pull off the stock power steering cooler since it will require lines that I don't want to run next to the turbo side because I want it to look neat. I installed my own power steering cooler on the driver side and mounted the resevoir after cleaning and painting it black and then clearing it. I ran out of paint for the battery tray, so I will have to get some more to fix that area and all the rubber pieces that have over spray on them, I have new ones to replace them. :)

Here are some shots.


Friday




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Saturday




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Sunday




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On The Lift




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IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
Someone help me decide on an Apexi N1, Burns or HKS Hi Power. They all sound good, especially the Hi Power.

Decisions decisions decisions....:aigo
 

IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
I would get the HKS Hi-Power but the Burns is the same price and sounds really raspy, then again, HKS is a deeper kind of tone too.


Called to get quotes on some mufflers, going to see what I get before the end of the day.
 
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IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
I ordered my MAC Solenoid to control my QSV.

I am going to be running a straight pipe exhaust and when I decide on my muffler, then I will put it on. :)
 

IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
I bought the MAC solenoid to use for my QSV. The -3AN fitting is the feed and the barb fitting is going to be used to feed the boost PSI to the QSV. I would have done a -3AN to feed the wastegate, but I did not want to weld a -3AN on the QSV's wastegate to avoid any problems with the wastegate.


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IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
4,455
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Queens, NY
On Thursday, I had some more brake lines made. Left a deposit and went to pick them up on Friday and brought two more brake lines with me as well. The lines were made to be a little longer than normal because I wanted to route them a little differently and have the show. Can't spend 450 dollars to make Teflon lines and not have the show. Also have some pictures of the back area of where they make the hoses.

Friday I installed all of the lines and then tried to install my big brake kit. I needed a 1/2 an inch more of clearance for my wheels to clear. They are two piece Volks and the tabs on the inside of the rim rubbed against the larger caliper. Now I have to get bigger rims to use the kit. So what I did was, since the lines I had made used -3AN fittings on the caliper end, I took the stock calipers, bought -3AN to 3/8NPT and tapped the caliper for it. Hooked up everything and bleed the brakes on Saturday and did that until clear new fluid came out each caliper.

I need some rims, shoot me some suggestions that would go nice on my car.

On Sunday, I spent the whole day installing my gauges and routing wires. Mounting the gauge pod and getting it to fit how I wanted was a little tough. I taped each set of wires and used the cruise control switch for my power source since that whole circuit will not be used as I deleted it. Then I put the wires behind the cluster and wrapped up the extra set of wires that are outputs to a standalone. Then I cleaned and reassembled my interior to how it should be and was done for the day. It took my from 10AM to 10PM to install my gauges and neaten the wires how I wanted them.

Here are some pictures....

Lines For The Master Cylinder.

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Where They Make The Hoses.

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Guy In The Blue Shirt Made The Hoses. The Fat guy Was Just Walking Around With His Fisherman Hat. LOL!

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Bunch Of Hoses, Some Rated To Handle 5,500 PSI.

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Lines Installed, The Feed For The Rear Brakes Was Tricky Since I Had To Avoid The Steering Column And Could Not Bend The Hose Too Much.

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Harness For The Gauges Spread Out.

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Harness Organized

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Standalone Outputs Wrapped And Tucked.(Blue, Yellow And Orange)

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How It Looks When I Was Finished.
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Albert

Custom CT26, CT12a, CT20 upgrades
May 13, 2009
1,710
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Tempe, AZ
Andy. did you buy the QSV yet? im making mine right now. =] Has to be custom, SP's font fit my manifold/wasegate setup/
 

IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
Yes, I bought it. Had to get it modified as well and my gauges will be turning on a relay to power the solenoid to open the QSV.

I actually had to get my manifold modified too. I have pictures of it a couple pages back. If I had a CNC machine, I would be a happy guy.
 

Albert

Custom CT26, CT12a, CT20 upgrades
May 13, 2009
1,710
0
0
Tempe, AZ
IBoughtASupra;1692807 said:
I have been getting a lot of request about moving the harness behind the dashboard and having it enter the firewall by the throttle cable.

Here is a picture and credit goes to gurley.

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Thats my Engine bay! credit goes to me =p

---------- Post added at 02:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:14 PM ----------

IBoughtASupra;1711404 said:
Yes, I bought it. Had to get it modified as well and my gauges will be turning on a relay to power the solenoid to open the QSV.

I actually had to get my manifold modified too. I have pictures of it a couple pages back. If I had a CNC machine, I would be a happy guy.

Yeah. I mean my Wastegate is actually where your QSV actuator is. I have to run my down at like a 45 degree angle...

---------- Post added at 02:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:15 PM ----------

IBoughtASupra;1711404 said:
Yes, I bought it. Had to get it modified as well and my gauges will be turning on a relay to power the solenoid to open the QSV.

I actually had to get my manifold modified too. I have pictures of it a couple pages back. If I had a CNC machine, I would be a happy guy.

Yeah. I mean my Wastegate is actually where your QSV actuator is. I have to run my down at like a 45 degree angle...