1JZ Build..HKS...Greddy..ACT..Chrome..You Might Like It.Dont Hate :)

[IBoughtASupra]

I tried to fit my QSV on the manifold forgetting that it was devided. I removed it to take it to my manifold guy to have to modify it. I told him to check all the welds and move a few runners since I did not like how they were sitting.

I am also going to get some copper gaskets since they are better than the stainless steel ones and will hold the boost I will run.

Since I had nothing else to do, I decided to polish my valve covers some more and took some up close shots of the exhaust ports.

 

[SWD Fredester 3]

Looks like you have been taking a few lessons from Dan on polishing! Nice work, looks good.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Who is Dan? :-/

 

[SWD Fredester 3]

Who is Dan? :-/

HKS_TRD---from Australia. Don't know what :-/ means?

I do have a question, was there a reason you didn't polish the exhaust porting you did? I know about the "golf ball" effect on porting on the intake side, but I thought it was OK to polish the porting on the exhaust side.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

You mean smooth it out? It is smooth but for some reason the IPhone camera makes it like like it is rough as concrete. I had my finger in the ports on there today to see if there was any rough spots I could find but nothing.

I have not looked at HKS_TRD's thread in a while.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

I got the manifold back and it is finally good. Had each runner taken care of, the turbo mount modified and both the AR and QSV valve modified to all work nicely.

The valve opens correctly at 5PSI and it does that without hitting any gaskets of any part of the manifold. Everything has it clearance issues fixed for the turbo side and fits good now.

I remounted the engine today using 7M head bolts which are the right thread size and after contacting Ian, they are more than enough strength to hold the motor with the intake and turbo setup.

 

[lithium14]

OH it's soooo puuurty!!!!!!

 

[IBoughtASupra]

OH it's soooo puuurty!!!!!!

Thanks.


I was going to wrap everything up with Thermotec Heat Wrap but I decided not to until I mocked up everything and knew how it is going to fit. I have all of it installed now and I will be wrapping each running and getting sleeves for the oil lines as well. I also have a turbo blanket to go on the AR that will stop a lot of the heat.

There is enough space to wrap each runner and I can get the strips through the spacing. I did not want to wrap the manifold before hand because when mocking things up, it won't be fun since it makes your skin start to itch. I also have stainless steel zip tires to hold the wrap in place as well.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Just placed an order for my gauges. I ordered Autometer Elite gauges, supposed to be their top of the line gauges. The gauges have a peak and warn feature, high and low warnings, ability to change thr background lighting colors and warning colors and an external ground output to switch on electronics when used with a relay.

Here are the gauges. I did not get the from Summit or Jeg. Found them new and cheaper from another vendor.

Boost Gauge
Oil Pressure
Water Temperature

 

[IBoughtASupra]

I finally got to do some stuff on the engine today. I bought a lower runner that was "polished" from nightrider760. I did not open the package when I got it since I had put it aside and having work and school to deal with, I forgot about it. I opened it today and the "polished" work was pretty much crap. The polishing paste was dried up in corners. I spent two hours just washing that off, plus the grease on the inside. Then used my dremel and Mothers and finished it off with my hand. It took me a total of four hours to polish that thing to what I would call something decent. Bad feedback is coming for that user and I did not haggle on the price he called for either.

I took pictures to show how close the gasket match is on the intake side, the cleaned surfaces, my new coolant temperature sensors, polished water neck, Teflon gasket for the oil drain to the pan, thermostat housing and the intake manifold mounted except the throttle body since I will be making a Teflon gasket as well.

Pictures.....

 

[SupraBro]

wow!!! looking good man, about to start my 1j build and this thread is helping out a bunch!!! great work you are doing!

 

[SWD Fredester 3]

Looks great Andy! Very nice work you're doing on everything.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

wow!!! looking good man, about to start my 1j build and this thread is helping out a bunch!!! great work you are doing!

Thanks.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

On Saturday I bolted up the intake manifold. On Sunday I installed the throttle body after getting it tapped for a -4AN fitting that will be used for my Tial Blow Off Valve. I put on the ISCV valve and cleaned it with carb cleaner. I was going to put on the sensors on the intake but I did not have thread tape for the vacuum fittings, so I did not bother with the sensors and fittings.

Today I put on all the sensors, the filter for the map sensor, vacuum ports and the brake booster vacuum fitting. I also smoke tested the manifold to check all the fittings that had either silicon or teflon tape to make sure they all sealed properly and they did.

I disassembled the fuel rail and changed all the O-Rings on each injector and the O-Ring that sits in the lower runners of the intake manifold. I reassembled them with oil to make sure they slide in smoothly and don't get brittle. I changed the O-Ring on the dip stick and painted it. I installed the oil level sensor, which I know the USDM cars don't have a light for but who says I cannot install one myself.

I ran a line from the brass pipe that runs around the block to the front return nipple on the head to keep circulation going. I will not be using the coolant lines that run to the ISCV and throttle body but it is wrong just to cap off the end, so I ran the 5/16" line from the rear nipple on the brass pipe to the front one on the head. I have seen people put a hose there with a bolt on the end....:nono:

I used a bracket to hold the hose in place under the intake manifold.


Incase you will be wondering, the stock yellow tops are only for the break-in period.....

Here are the pictures....

 

[gurley0916]

Looks really good!! need to polish up those to nuts on the top of the throttle body if your gonna have your motor looking like a boss :naughty:

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Looks really good!! need to polish up those to nuts on the top of the throttle body if your gonna have your motor looking like a boss :naughty:

Darn, I did not remember that. I will do it tomorrow, the dremel took will take car of that with ease after I tape everywhere around it.

Good job on keeping the car.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Today I started to rebuild the power steering pump. I like to rebuild things and see how they work, so before opting for the DriftMotion rebuilt pump, I bought the 2JZ-GTE gasket kit and bearing and did it myself. I followed the TSRM on how to put in the parts and tested it by pouring fluid in the feed port and turned the pump and it came out the other end, so I hope it works well.

I disassembled the pump, first taking out the whole set of fittings that allowed the use for the idle up valve. I took of the feed port and set it aside and then took the pressure control valve and spring out. I removed the back housing by removing the four 12MM bolts and took a note of how the vane cam, vane plates and o-rings were set.

The TSRM shows that all the marks need to be facing up toward you when reinstalling everything but even if you forget, you can just take a close look at each piece and see the impressions of how they are supposed to go since the marks have made an impression on it's opposing part.

I had to use a press to push out the vane shaft bearings and it was simple, I did not have to use the handle to pump the hydraulic press, it was an easy bearing to press out. Reassembling is easy as well since the hardest part is just getting the back housing to fit back on. I did not remove any of the vane plates since they have a special way of fitting because one corner is rounded and the other is square and I did not want to mix up any of them.

When I removed the bushing for the vane shaft, it was toasted. Looked like it was ran without fluid. I had another spare pump that I took apart and use that bushing since it was in better shape. I will be getting a bushing from Toyota to rebuild the second pump I took apart since that one was not working either. In the pictures, you will see how the bushing went bad and took the oil seal with it.

Pictures.

 

[grifter679]

are you sure that you have your vac source in the right spot for the Tial BOV, looks like the reference is pre throttle body vs post throttle body, im not sure if the Tials work in a differently than other BOVs but just a heads up.

 

[lithium14]

WoW I hope whenever I do my 2j swap my build will be as nice as yours

 

[IBoughtASupra]

are you sure that you have your vac source in the right spot for the Tial BOV, looks like the reference is pre throttle body vs post throttle body, im not sure if the Tials work in a differently than other BOVs but just a heads up.

I have that sorted out. The 1JZ has two 1/4" vacuum fittings on the side of the manifold. I will be getting the fittings tomorrow to be used there and the piece that is on the throttle body right now will be used for my meth kit. It is in a very nice angle but for the break in period, I will just put a nice block off on it. Thanks though.

WoW I hope whenever I do my 2j swap my build will be as nice as yours

Thanks. I am trying to make it nice and reliable all at once.