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http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/index.html Check out this site. It should help out with a lot of your questions. And if you need any parts make sure you post them up. I'm sure all of us can help you put it all back together.

That sucks big time man. Hope you get everything fixed. Seals are no fun at all.

The VSV is the vacuum controller that controlls the actual heater valve. It all has to do with pressure.

its possible. Its usually ok to have a little bit of oil in the intake path if you don't have a catch can. Another good way to know if your turbo is buring oil is if it puffs big either during spooling or decelleration after spooling up. If you are smoking up a little at start up that could be...

Yeah thats pretty nifty. I'd buy one as long as its acurate

I know the SP61GT bolts up to the mani. You can also use the CT-26 downpipe.

My buddy has 26X,XXX on his 88 auto turbo. All stock. They can run as long as you treat them good. He's still pushin 7psi.

Whatever you need William just let me know. You still need to email me.

Steve had mine done as well. So far so good with 800 miles on it.

you can try tightening it. I would just go ahead and replace the valve cover seal. Its a cheap fix. Oil can ignite when it has been laying on the manifold while beating the car.

i didn;t have any oil in mine when I was doing the valve seals. Then as soon as I put air to the 3rd cylinder it started spitting out coolant out the thermostat housing. So your problem may lie in you head. My bowl had a hair line crack in the 3rd combustion chamber. You should of gotten it...

bobtsgt96/ Bobby/ bobtsgt

People need to do some searching and find out how much something is before just throwing it up there. Thats why you ask ( $1,200 obo) that way there is some flexability

Dan you know its worth more then that. Its the sentimental valve of things that gets to us. Since that car has a lot of history with your family and all. Thanks for keeping it. Cause if you would of sold it I would have to go down and pick Dave and Steve's asses up and come have a talk with...

I will be running an upgraded CT26, MHG, ARP's, and stock internalls. Except for Toyota .20 overs everything else is stock. I'll let you know how well it works when I get it together. Hopefully by next weekend.

One looks polished and one looks aluminum. But that could be the camera too.Other then that I guess there the same manufacturer. Just a different name.

sorry man no directions. It just came with valve, horn, 2 fittings, hex wrench, and a couple of washers. I would say run it with out the shims at first. If it feels like its too loose then add a washer and run it again. Keep adding washers until it doesn't sound like its leaking out.

Cool. Thanks for the replys. I just received the RFL yesterday and can't wait to put it on. Now all I need is that damn engine.

Sorry man. Lookin to sell the GReddy. I thought I ordered the Type H by mistake but I just received the RFL yesterday. If it wasn't an RFL I would of traded ya + a little cash

How different sounding are the Type H's and the RFL's? I accidently ordered the wrong one and its already here. I got the Type H but wanted the RFL. The website says the Type H is 110db of sound and of course the RFL is Real F***ing Loud. I have heard the sounds on 935 but want somebodys opinion...