Does anyone know if i can use a 2jz crank thrust washer for my 1jz?
In one of the "stickys" I see that the main bearings are the same, so would it be save to say that the thrust washer is too since its on one of the main bearings?
Anyone have any pictures of a motor without the oil pan?
with the clutch pushed i can keep the motor running if i keep my foot on the gas but if i let it go down under about 1000 rpm then it still tries to kill itself. in neutral, it has no problem idling itself.
Any ideas other than crank walk? I will try diagnosing it Friday when I get back to the car but I would like as many diagnosis ideas as possible so that I can try the next if it is not crank walk.
Car: 88 mk3
motor: 1jz-gte
tranny: r154
Problem: when the clutch is pushed in, the motor stalls
Conditions:
-When the car is cold, it runs and drives fine but when the clutch is pushed in you can see the rpms drop 200 rpm.
-When the car reaches operating temperature, the motor...
Car: 88 mk3
motor: 1jz-gte
tranny: r154
Problem: when the clutch is pushed in, the motor stalls
Conditions:
-When the car is cold, it runs and drives fine but when the clutch is pushed in you can see the rpms drop 200 rpm.
-When the car reaches operating temperature, the motor...
I don't recall exactly what it looks like, but I do remember that it was one of only a few thats between the firewall and ECU that is a connector with between 3 and 7 pins. I just disconnected one at a time and tried the motor each time and then it magically ran perfect after I disconnected a...
I had nearly the same issue but it was a wiring issue. My friend that did my wiring ended up not deleting a certain connector that is located on the harness between the firewall and ECU and it just happened to fit a body side connector so I instinctively had it plugged in. When I finished the...
I have an 89 NA with a 1jzgte/r154 swap. This has been my daily driver for the past year and I havent had any issues out of it, until now. This issue just started in the past few days.
-Once engine is at operating temp. it stalls instead of trying to idle
-I can still drive the can normally...
I have an mk3 that I am trying to finish my 1jzget swap into. The wiring has been done by someone that has done the swap mulitple times. The motor and everything is in and wired up correctly with continuity from the the ECU plugs to each sensor. Engine starts up great and sounds good. but...
TPS, is adjusted and within spec.
QUESTION: Does the RPM signal the ECU uses, to calculate fuel maps with, come from a series circuit from the Tachometer???
I've heard that on NA mk3's you need to remove a resistor from the back of the cluster in order for the tach to work with a 1jzgte...
If it makes a difference, I disconnected the TPS plug and it did the exact same thing at ~3k rpm. So, would you still think it would have to do with the adjustment?
As for the spark plugs, they are at factory gap.
ITs a brand new TPS from drift motion that should be well within spec cuz its a toyota factor replacement part.
And no, I dont have a traction control throttle body, but evidently the ECU im using probably was used on an engine with traction control originally.
Hey, I was searching through old threads trying to find a solution to an issue im having. It was a thread where you said your motor was bogging down after 2500-3000 rpm and it wouldnt go past that.
Im having the same issue with my swap i just finished.
What ended up being the problem with...
Anyone know what trouble code 47 for a 1jzgte is? Ive googled it and looked through the links from these forums and none of them have 47 listed. Closest thing I could find was for a 2jz code 47 is supposed to be the sub-throttle position sensor. but 1jz doesnt have that.......right?
I have an 89 mk3 with a 1jzgte JUST swapped into it. It cranks right up, but when I try reving it, it cuts out somewhere around 3k rpm and then once the rpms fall below that spot the engine continues to run. It just wont go past that rpm(this is all while its in neutral under no load).
Known...
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