Recent content by di_rosa

i have a jza70 ecu. i pulled it from my car when i re-did the wiring harness and went with a 2jz ecu. even replaced the capacitors the year before.

not sure about the soarer harness, but igniter is feed via black-orange wire and so are the injectors

do you see a big cloud of smoke on startup? my valve seals are leaking (been too lazy to change them) so my car will take a few cranks before it starts up, and it'll stutter the same like yours while the oil burns off, then idles smooth..........but i don't know if it could've gotten that bad...

i've been running the mustang one for years without any problems.

hmmm, seems odd then. your rpms should go up when you unplug it last time i checked...........i'll go unplug mine right now. the rpms do rise a bit........i could've sworn the rpms go up higher though well anyways, code 14 is "No IGF signal to ECM for 4~7 consecutive IGT signals with engine...

i guess do some continuity tests between the ecu and injectors..........might also want to check the injector resistor to injectors and make sure.......... so you're running a 7mge harness?

why don't you fix the code 14 first, and go from there? seems your car is dying because there is something wrong with the ignition system, which is indicated by the code 14. forget the tps, grab a $10 multimeter, and conduct some tests. in the tsrm it shows you what to check for each code...

changed ecu's, not that. air temp sensor wiring tests perfect (no s/c with ecu unplugged), injectors don't have s/c, water temp sensor (2 wire to ecu) doesn't have a s/c. i have absolultely no idea what the problem is with this damn car............unless it's the emu but i can't check that...

nah, i drove my car for an hour like that, and same thing. i've just calibrated my tps twice to confirm everything is good tuning with the emu. ran it for the past 2 years on a 1j ecu no problems, but this 2j ecu is giving me headaches. i've got a spare 2j ecu i might throw in and see what...

well, i was right. not that simple. so i modified the air temps by adding 15 degrees to them, and nothing, same shit. i think decided to move the ait back just for fun, same shit (what a surprise). so i'm at a loss. i can pull a shitload of injector duty at idle, and the stock ecu will fight...

do you have a fuel pressure gauge? i had a similar issue, and i kept dumping fuel, and it was still going lean till one of the guys at the dyno was like "your fuel pressure is dropping", and that was it. what are your fuel mods? 1 pump or 2? 12v mod ?

it can't be that simple............well if you think about it, even when you start it up, it'll run around 1200 for a few seconds, then drop down to like 850, and after another 30 seconds 800, then 750, etc..............this thing is starting at 1400, and not dropping any lower than 1100. even...

well, i was doing some work to my car, everything was running perfect earlier on that day, and then after the work i start my car, and it's idling high (1100 rpms when fully warmed up), and rich (12:1). the work i was doing was re-locating the ait sensor to the i/c pipe. i did plug it back up...

if anyone cares, the correct size for the stock iat is m16x1.5

i have to relocate mine as it's getting cooked by the intake manifold whenever the car sits for a short period of time after being driven (confirmed with a datalog of the iat's). i wanted to get a bung to install in the i/c pipe, and need to know the thread and pitch. anyone know?