This was a question PMd to me. I like to post these things in the forum so all can see the answer:
The signal that the AEM C2DI is designed to recognize is not produced by the 2JZGTE AEM ECU (30-1100). In order to make the C2DI work, you have to install the ignitor or modify the AEM circuitboard.
The wiring should go like this-> AEM->Ignitor->C2DI->Coil Packs
The AEM works as a wasted spark. When you wire up the 2jz/1jz ignitor, I believe that you will only be using channels 1, 2 and 3.
There are a couple of people that have reported success in rewiring the transistors on the circuitboard in order to eliminate the factory ignitor and just use the C2DI. I tried it and could not verify that the C2DI was firing. Part of my problem may have been the fact that I was using an inductive timing pickup light on the ignition leads into the COPs, and that it was not recognizing the signal. Not to say that it doesnt work, because DaveH said he did it and Kevin Hoare http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,8680.0.html did it as well. Mine could have been working too - I just didnt get the indication so I assumed it wasnt and purchased an ignitor.
Instead of purchasing a 2jz/1jzgte ignitor, you may want to consider purchasing a set of coils and ignitor off of a later 2jzge vvti Lexus. It is a wasted spark 3-coil setup and a lot of people go that route with good results and to save a bit of coin because the individual COPs are expensive.
If you DO decide to do the above mod to your AEM, do not shunt the holes like described in the second post. Just do like the pictures say to in the links provided in Kevins first post on the AEM forum. If you screw up the transistors its OK because they are like a dime a dozen. Easy to find.
As far as using the 7M CPS, its relatively simple. The Ne signal (crank position) is a 24 tooth sensor. In order to fire correctly, the 30-1100 AEM does not need BOTH G1 and G2 inputs. It uses one of the G inputs to determine when the #1 piston is at TDC and synchs it with the NE signal. You refine this when you set the fixed base timing. Basically, you "tell" the AEM where TDC is by verifying that its programmed timing matches the indication with a timing light and then you can chage the timing with your laptop....
When they have synchronized the "stat sync" parameter shows "on" and the ignition/fuel system starts to work. There really isnt anything too cryptic about it in the cam/crank sensor setup settings. If you have some questions I can post up an AEM calibration file. The fuel map wont be right but you can see how I did the crank/cam setup. It spells it all out as well in the AEM users manual. Keep in mind that there are 3 users manuals. V1.something, V1.something else and V2.0. They are all included in PDF format in the user software available at their forum.
The signal that the AEM C2DI is designed to recognize is not produced by the 2JZGTE AEM ECU (30-1100). In order to make the C2DI work, you have to install the ignitor or modify the AEM circuitboard.
The wiring should go like this-> AEM->Ignitor->C2DI->Coil Packs
The AEM works as a wasted spark. When you wire up the 2jz/1jz ignitor, I believe that you will only be using channels 1, 2 and 3.
There are a couple of people that have reported success in rewiring the transistors on the circuitboard in order to eliminate the factory ignitor and just use the C2DI. I tried it and could not verify that the C2DI was firing. Part of my problem may have been the fact that I was using an inductive timing pickup light on the ignition leads into the COPs, and that it was not recognizing the signal. Not to say that it doesnt work, because DaveH said he did it and Kevin Hoare http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,8680.0.html did it as well. Mine could have been working too - I just didnt get the indication so I assumed it wasnt and purchased an ignitor.
Instead of purchasing a 2jz/1jzgte ignitor, you may want to consider purchasing a set of coils and ignitor off of a later 2jzge vvti Lexus. It is a wasted spark 3-coil setup and a lot of people go that route with good results and to save a bit of coin because the individual COPs are expensive.
If you DO decide to do the above mod to your AEM, do not shunt the holes like described in the second post. Just do like the pictures say to in the links provided in Kevins first post on the AEM forum. If you screw up the transistors its OK because they are like a dime a dozen. Easy to find.
As far as using the 7M CPS, its relatively simple. The Ne signal (crank position) is a 24 tooth sensor. In order to fire correctly, the 30-1100 AEM does not need BOTH G1 and G2 inputs. It uses one of the G inputs to determine when the #1 piston is at TDC and synchs it with the NE signal. You refine this when you set the fixed base timing. Basically, you "tell" the AEM where TDC is by verifying that its programmed timing matches the indication with a timing light and then you can chage the timing with your laptop....
When they have synchronized the "stat sync" parameter shows "on" and the ignition/fuel system starts to work. There really isnt anything too cryptic about it in the cam/crank sensor setup settings. If you have some questions I can post up an AEM calibration file. The fuel map wont be right but you can see how I did the crank/cam setup. It spells it all out as well in the AEM users manual. Keep in mind that there are 3 users manuals. V1.something, V1.something else and V2.0. They are all included in PDF format in the user software available at their forum.