s some of you might know I have a 7m-ge swapped into my 85. It also has a BHG (with good compression to boot), and winter is coming. I am wondering if there are any tips you guys might offer me on what I need to do to get the car able to sit for a winter without damage (coolant buildup in cyl plus Rochester winter = problem???). Would you recommend I get started on fixing the BHG job now with the hopes of having the car running before I take it off the road for the rest of the winter? If It could be running even for October I would be thrilled (cold weather is fun) however with me living at school and the car being at home (20 min drive) finding time to work on a BHG without ever having done a BHG job before can be hard. If i was to walk into the BHG job with my friend (auto body and general mechanic, however no BHG experience also) with the honest estimate of 2-3 evenings a week to work on it how long would you estimate the job to take? Costs for a simple OEM headgasket replacement (I have almost no intention of boosting this engine without serious changes including a MHG. I see no reason why a properly torqued and checked OEM headgasket wont suffice)? Thanks for your thoughts, I have to address this "problem" before it starts snowing.
Winterization of a BHG supra
- Thread starter Jkm3141
- Start date
The problem without having the motor out to be able to properly prep the head and block to insure the BHG dosen't come back. You probably could have the head off in an evening that way you would be able to see what you have to deal with. How many miles on the motor?Jkm3141 said:
a stock headgasket torqued to 73 ft/lbs will be just fine for an N/A car, and much more forgiving. the blocks are rarely warped and can be checked with a machinist's straight edge. I'd say take the head off and have a machine shop inspect it. If it's warped, have them straighten it in an oven as best they can and skim the head, throw a stock headgasket on it and be worry free about the winter!
if you must leave it i'd probably drain the majority of the coolant from the engine, try and syphon any fluid out of the leaking cylinders with a turkey baster, blow it out with compressed air, and soak the cylinders with WD-40 to help displace any water/coolant sitting there.
make sure you change your oil before you consider starting it in the spring, don't want water in your oil! but this solution is still ghetto...try and fix it now if you can.
if you must leave it i'd probably drain the majority of the coolant from the engine, try and syphon any fluid out of the leaking cylinders with a turkey baster, blow it out with compressed air, and soak the cylinders with WD-40 to help displace any water/coolant sitting there.
make sure you change your oil before you consider starting it in the spring, don't want water in your oil! but this solution is still ghetto...try and fix it now if you can.
That sounds like the best idea to me. Most shops shouldn't charge much to do the inspection + possible straightening right? The engine has around 90K miles on it by the way. My hesitation about starting the head gasket job is the fact I have never personally pulled an engine apart other than my old 5M which I removed the head on (a few aspects of that job were a tad unorthodox and I shouldn't ever do again). I would be very nervous as to properly doing the head gasket but am confidant that It could be done. Another concern is where to purchase the OEM gasket. the local pep boys has a head gasket kit that includes the gasket, and all the other gaskets you need, but I am not sure if it has the head bolts. Advance has the same thing but without the bolts for sure. This is a concern for me as I know you need to replace those head bolts as well. I also assume the TSRM has information for step by step head gasket install and remove, however based on the quality of the distributer timing instructions (TDC is a pain to get the way they showed, but I figured it out) i would be cautious to go into this job with only that help. My friend is a great mechanic however has also never done a head gasket, so idk how much help he would be in this. I know this is an incredibly stupid question but what Kind of parts and tools are needed to do a head gasket on a GE. I can find a load of info bout the GTE and I'm sure the differences are slim, I'm just trying to do my research before I get into trouble. Thanks.
Usally dosen't include the head bolts. As long as you have the book or reference material with general knowledge you can do it. The first time I pulled the head I marked everything and bagged or put the bolts and nuts were they went, saves a lot of guess work later. Cleaned everything then put them in a clean bag for install after the machining was done. Basic tools except for one that I remember was a large hex head to take off the center head cover were the plugs are, and a deep well socket for the head bolts. Just take your time and keep everything clean. It looks kind of intimadating with all the wiring harness and vac hoses, just mark them. The wiring harness kind of lays back in place. Good LuckJkm3141 said:
AJ'S 88NA said:
Thanks, Where do you reccommend finding head bolts? I really appreciate all this help.
www.horsepowerfreaks.com
All your supra needs and then some shite that'll just make the wife biotch.
All your supra needs and then some shite that'll just make the wife biotch.
I can pull a 7m head in just under 2 hours. Of course, I have the tools and experience to make this easy. IF you want to leave it over the winter, pull the head now, clean everything, generously coat the cylinders, piston tops, and deck with grease, cover it with a trash bag, and gently put the head back in place. Make sure the head sits on the pins like its supposed to. This will keep the plastic in place, and make a good seal to keep out air born contaminates. I would ONLY do this if the car is gonna sit in a garage, and not outside. Personally, I'd fix it now. Shouldn't take more than a weekend to get it back together once you get the head done. Just do as recommended: bag and label EVERYTHING. Then you know where it goes when you put it back together. Take pics while your taking it apart so you have a reference when you put it back together, to.
I agree, if you have a choice I'd do it now. Even with plastic the problem is if moisture can get in anywere, just moist air, the plastic will hold the moisture in. I'd try to use something like a bed sheet or something of that sort to help absorb any moisture, and check it from time to time to see if you should change sheets. Maybe even spray the sheet down with WD-40.
yea i intend to start and finish it now, i want the car to run before the winter and don't like letting it sit. Our winters here in Rochester suck, avg of over 100 inches of snow (2nd half of winter is more like slush). I just need to find the time (college sucks)
Fix it now.... quick! It will take you less than a week for your first time.
As for storing the car? Put decon inside the car with some dryer sheets. The mice don't like the smell and if they do get in there, they eat the decon and GO OUTSIDE the car to get something to drink (and die).
As for storing the car? Put decon inside the car with some dryer sheets. The mice don't like the smell and if they do get in there, they eat the decon and GO OUTSIDE the car to get something to drink (and die).
If you don't have a torque wrench. Or the parts chosen and picked out ready to order. You should plan on a month. Especially if this is the biggest thing you have ever done to an engine.
Most of these guys here are real mechanics. I'm just a gear head that does my own shite. I'd alot a month and stay on it every day trying to get it done in 2 /3 weeks.
Most of these guys here are real mechanics. I'm just a gear head that does my own shite. I'd alot a month and stay on it every day trying to get it done in 2 /3 weeks.
If you have the tools and the head isnt' warped...
You can have a BHG job done in a day to three days.
You can have a BHG job done in a day to three days.
Jkm3141 said:
There are a few people in our area, might want to post in the regional forums for help and bang this thing out in < a week.
I agree. If you have everything. 3 days.
I was just saying if you haven't done one before, is all.
I was just saying if you haven't done one before, is all.
I got the head off last night in roughly 4 hours (took our time). I plan on ordering the head bolts and a gasket kit tomorrow after I make some final derisions regarding what to get. I still am looking for some advice as to the head. It needs a through cleaning (todays task) because there is a huge buildup in the intake and exhaust ports as well as on the valves them selfs. I also assume for the head gasket job it needs to be machined flat. I don't have the necessary tools to measure the head for flatness myself. If it needs to be flattened at a machine shop, do I have to disassemble the entire head? what are your guy's recommendations on this step of the job. thanks