Which oil do YOU use??
- Thread starter johnathan1
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boost PSSH boost said:I think you should check your valve shims and change them accordingly
well yes, that too...but as for oil...
I believe our dealer hand books tell us 20w-50 in the summer when the temps are over 80 or so and for the winter 10w-30 or 10w-40 ..... also 5w-30 for the crazy cold temps. Personally i am fan of 20w-50 in the summer months 15w-40 when the temps start to lower and 10w-30 in the middle of winter. I dont know of anyone who has spun a rod b/c of 20w-50 ........... :thefinger
89jdm7m said:
Hell yeah! I'm all for wal-mart dynosaur oil! I've got an oil leak or three also
. It stays pretty damn fresh because it leaks right back out in short order. Right after I do my rebuild and the engine is broken in, I'll be switching to Mobil 1 10W-30 FTMFW!
:rofl: man... i'm right there w/ ya... i CAN NOT wait to get another motor in my car, or in a mkII :evil2:... havn't decided yet... but none-the-less, a 7m that does not burn or leak oil :biglaugh:... what a relief that will be... then i can run royal purple 15w40:naughty:starscream5000 said:Hell yeah! I'm all for wal-mart dynosaur oil! I've got an oil leak or three also
I'm running Liqui Moly Race Tech 10w-60 or Castrol RS 10w-60 oils depending on which is awaylable at the moment. Both are purely race oil, milage is a bit worse with them, but they protect engine at redline just like they should. I love them
Wow, haven't seen anyone use those numbers in their oil yet on the supras.
How's the oil pressure?
How's the oil pressure?
bountykilla0118 said:
^ This kid is awesome. Rockin the 20w50 w/ me. :icon_bigg *I'm still in my break in period, so I'm not currently running it*
In college I worked in a research lab. We tested a lot of additives for government regs... MMT was one that we dealt with..
There was the oil testing that had some cool results: Mobil 1 was our benchmark. It ran awesome under HARD load conditions for 12000 miles... Engine looked great and like new when torn down. Normal oil wasnt quite as clean BUT Castrol has been in my cars since I saw the results from a 15000 mountain driving dyno run. That stuff rules. It also cleaned an engine that had been running the 'amish oil' heh heh.
Another additive I have seen actually perform was the STP silver bottle 'once every 5000 mile' gas additive... We took the pictures that are on the cardboard insert.. Guess what kind of motor it is?
I have had syntec in my Jimmy since 1999 and it runs great... My supra gets it now too. From 1994-1999 my 89 Turbo had Syntec in it and I never had a bad turbo, seal or rod issue.
V
There was the oil testing that had some cool results: Mobil 1 was our benchmark. It ran awesome under HARD load conditions for 12000 miles... Engine looked great and like new when torn down. Normal oil wasnt quite as clean BUT Castrol has been in my cars since I saw the results from a 15000 mountain driving dyno run. That stuff rules. It also cleaned an engine that had been running the 'amish oil' heh heh.
Another additive I have seen actually perform was the STP silver bottle 'once every 5000 mile' gas additive... We took the pictures that are on the cardboard insert.. Guess what kind of motor it is?
I have had syntec in my Jimmy since 1999 and it runs great... My supra gets it now too. From 1994-1999 my 89 Turbo had Syntec in it and I never had a bad turbo, seal or rod issue.
V
i run shell rotella T with shaiffers additive. best additive in the world in my opinion. my dad has used it on his heavy equiptment for years. looks like green slime. only part that sucks is it takes about an hour for all of it to drain out of the bottle.
mobil 1 15w40 in the supras, mobil 1 10w40 in the alltrac, mobil 1 5w30 in the titan, mobil 1 15w40 in the suzuki 750, and some wal mart shit in the corolla gts....
6o4turbo said:
thats what i'm thinking about changing over to cause i've been hearing that, royal purple is amazing
I hear Rotella by shell oils is good. It is a synthetic that plays nicer with old engines with dino deposits.
Castrol Synthetic 10w-40w only 'cause I live in cold Ass MI. Would recomend Mobil 1 15w 50w if u live in a mostly warm climate. Temps that don't go lower than 32 degrees farenhgt.
You guys that like 15W-50...here's what you need to do:
- Put a bottle in your frig and get it cooled off to 40-45 deg
- Pour some out in a small pan
- Note how well it flows (or lack thereof)
- That's what your oil pump is trying to get to your pistions and valves.
Basically you're increasing the wear on your motor...on each cold start. Now try the same thing with a 0W-30 or 5W-30...bet it flows better
The highest weight oil I would ever run is a 10W-40 and that on a high milage motor. You want the oil to flow so it can do it's job. The second number is the visc of the oil at temperature...30W is plenty for a fresh 7M motor. if you want to decrease the wear on your new engine, 0 to 10W-30 (depending on climate) is what you want.
- Put a bottle in your frig and get it cooled off to 40-45 deg
- Pour some out in a small pan
- Note how well it flows (or lack thereof)
- That's what your oil pump is trying to get to your pistions and valves.
Basically you're increasing the wear on your motor...on each cold start. Now try the same thing with a 0W-30 or 5W-30...bet it flows better
The highest weight oil I would ever run is a 10W-40 and that on a high milage motor. You want the oil to flow so it can do it's job. The second number is the visc of the oil at temperature...30W is plenty for a fresh 7M motor. if you want to decrease the wear on your new engine, 0 to 10W-30 (depending on climate) is what you want.
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