so i notice a couple places sell an upgraded fuel rail for the 7M. is the stocker ever a problem? at about what HP level should a person look into getting a higher flowing rail?
when to upgrade the fuel rail?
- Thread starter screaminglemon
- Start date
I really don't think it's necessary. The only reason I can see for changing it is for dual feed fuel lines, and the stocker can be modded for that.
The bigger injectors won't fit in the stock rail - but at that point, you're shooting for 1000+ hp, IIRC.
The rail we sell will support 1250+ rwhp.
Under testing, the stock rail has been shown to support 800 +/- rwhp.
So if you are going for 800+, then upgrade, otherwise it's just for looks.
Under testing, the stock rail has been shown to support 800 +/- rwhp.
So if you are going for 800+, then upgrade, otherwise it's just for looks.
the stock rail is more than adequate for lots of ponies as supracentral stated.
The ONLY other reason to get an "aftermarket" fuel rail is because of fuel compatability.
The ONLY other reason to get an "aftermarket" fuel rail is because of fuel compatability.
figgie, ar eyou saying the stock rail is incompatible with certain fuels?
i had my stock fuel rail modified.
i had the ends drilled out and -6an fittings welded on. then the fittings are drilled out to -8an ID. the stock FPR and FPD holes are dowled and welded shut. the CSI port has a -6an fitting installed for the return line.
the fuel flow thru this rail will be phenominal, however, it requires the removal of the stock alternator bracket. the an fitting on the front side of the rail intereferes w/ the fitment. no big deal since my FFI interferes w/ the alternator fitment anyways
i had my stock fuel rail modified.
i had the ends drilled out and -6an fittings welded on. then the fittings are drilled out to -8an ID. the stock FPR and FPD holes are dowled and welded shut. the CSI port has a -6an fitting installed for the return line.
the fuel flow thru this rail will be phenominal, however, it requires the removal of the stock alternator bracket. the an fitting on the front side of the rail intereferes w/ the fitment. no big deal since my FFI interferes w/ the alternator fitment anyways
chris bell said:figgie, ar eyou saying the stock rail is incompatible with certain fuels?
i had my stock fuel rail modified.
i had the ends drilled out and -6an fittings welded on. then the fittings are drilled out to -8an ID. the stock FPR and FPD holes are dowled and welded shut. the CSI port has a -6an fitting installed for the return line.
the fuel flow thru this rail will be phenominal, however, it requires the removal of the stock alternator bracket. the an fitting on the front side of the rail intereferes w/ the fitment. no big deal since my FFI interferes w/ the alternator fitment anyways
yes
aluminum plus alcohol = the sux!!!
alcohol corrodes aluminum.
there are easier ways to dual feed the stock rail: use adaptor fittings to -6 on both ends, drill/tap a hole in the center for your fav thread....
you should see it though.. its more efficient, and there are no 90* turns that the fuel flow has to make like if ihad use metric adaptors in the stock banjo bolt holes. technically that works... but so do log manifolds. and i think you guys know how i feel about log manifolds.
btw, my fuel rail cost me some Axxis Metal master brake pads and $12 of AN fittings. its quite a fine specimen of a fuel rail. it looks like it was made this way from the get-go.
btw, my fuel rail cost me some Axxis Metal master brake pads and $12 of AN fittings. its quite a fine specimen of a fuel rail. it looks like it was made this way from the get-go.
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Boostaddctn
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Boostaddctn
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yeah, ive got a pic of it, but its on my pc that crashed and someone needs to fix it!
ive got apic of the end of it and you can see right thru it. its fully Tig'd too. it looks great.
ive got apic of the end of it and you can see right thru it. its fully Tig'd too. it looks great.
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Boostaddctn
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does anyone have a write up on how to run dual walbros w/ a AFPR for the rail? I am stomped on how to tap the rail and what to block off... aight peace
no offense, but if you can't figure that out you're probably better leaving it to a professional....just pick a point in the center of the rail, drill + tap.....