origionally posted by mdcmotorsports:
Ok, so since I just went through this with another member here at 3am online, I figured I would do a little write up on this subject.
If you are doing a head gasket change, DO IT RIGHT! The following is a list of pretty much EVERY THING that you should need when doing a head gasket job AND DOING IT RIGHT!
Not listed on here is water pump and all other belts that run the pwr steering, etc etc. It IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that while you have it torn apart (unless they were recently changed) that you change the Water pump, and all belts and MAIN coolant hoses while you are doing the BHG change.
The list is as follows (I know some of them are questionable, but TRUST ME! If you have all of these handy, and change them while you are re-doing the head gasket, you WILL save your self TONS OF HEADACHES and questions like "Why did I buy a supra!")
ARP bolts
new cam seals 2 of them
2 cam COVER seals
new timing belt
valve seals
heater hose that goes from back of head to heater
gasket that goes from thermostat housing to head
gasket for air intake plennum to head
gasket for air intake plennam to air intake chamber
gasket for throttle body
o ring for cam positioning sensor
o ring for dipstick
spark plug valey gasket (toyota or aftermarket item only)
new vent hose (goes from vavle cover to block, toyota item only)
exhaust manifold gasket
thermostat housing gasket
water pipe-water pipe to back of thermostat
all EGR gaskets(3 total I think) 2 small ovals 1 large square shape (EGR cooler)
Turbo charger oil return gasket
O ring kits for injectors
ISC or Idle Speed Control Gasket
Turbo charger to manifold gasket
Helicoils for the exhaust studs
New spark plugs (chances are, if you are doing a BHG you SMOKED your plugs)
That should do it. As for recommendations on what type of head gasket to use....
THIS HAS BEEN COVERED MANY TIMES! SEARCH!
Also, when getting your head prepaired to be put back onto the block:
Make sure your head is A+ clean and there is no HUGE carbon deposits on the face of the valves.
Lap your valves in with LIGHT valve lapping compound. Make sure to get all the compound OUT of the valve seats when finished.
Make sure to take your head to a RACE SHOP or ENGINE BUILDING SHOP! Do not take your head to a MACHINE shop. Why? Most machine shops will want to CUT the head on a mill. THIS IS NORMALLY A NO NO (WITH EXCEPTIONS). I will state DO NOT DO IT! Instead, have your head GROUND or "lapped" as some call it. You will have better results and a better overall finish on the surface of the head.
While the head is at the race shop, have them install the helicoils in the exhaust side.
Make sure to torque all your head bolts WET! Wet them with oil first. This will give you a more accurate torque reading. Again, this is up for debate just like the head gasket discussion.
Make sure to use a TOP QUALITY ASSEMBLY LUBE!
Be clean! DO NOT USE A LINT INFESTED RAG!
When putting back together the intake, there are two wires (actually four, but they are two and two paired together) They are brown and white. THESE ARE GROUNDING WIRES and are to go back to a good ground. THESE DO NOT go onto the starter LOL! If you do not ground these, your CAR WILL NOT START!
Last but not least...
TAKE YOUR FREAKN TIME! Don't be hesitant to consult the TSRM or http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM for answers or questions! Your supra wasn't built in an hour, and Rome wasn't built in a day..... HEAD GASKET REPAIRS AREN'T EITHER!
If any one has any thing to chime in that I missed, feel free to add / correct me.
Thanks, and good luck!
Added by Lonesuprarider from another supra site:
... just about covers all... Take it from my experience.. do the HeliCoils, make sure about the ERG cooler (use some locktight on the bolts as it is almost impossible to get to them once the head is put in the car), mark your wires and maybe take pictures before u take things apart, there is a lot of wires / connectors and vacumm placement things and odd brackets. Speaking of vacumm, maybe replace these tubes too as they me be old and dry. U will need some special tools if u are doing it, a 12 point 10mm socket as well as a 10mm allen head socket (stock head bolts), a 14mm or is it a 17mm allen head socket for head cover #3. Change the cam cover screws to something you can tighten up better than with a philips screw driver. If its a Turbo, good time to think about the boost controller. Also check out the Turbo since it is off. Check to make sure the oil return pipe (small one) is not blocked up with sludge. Good time to think of an oil filter relocation. Check out the radiator as it also is a contributor to BHG (crud stuck on the front side)
Thats my 2 cents... Good luck not that u will need it, just patience and small hands...
Ok, so since I just went through this with another member here at 3am online, I figured I would do a little write up on this subject.
If you are doing a head gasket change, DO IT RIGHT! The following is a list of pretty much EVERY THING that you should need when doing a head gasket job AND DOING IT RIGHT!
Not listed on here is water pump and all other belts that run the pwr steering, etc etc. It IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that while you have it torn apart (unless they were recently changed) that you change the Water pump, and all belts and MAIN coolant hoses while you are doing the BHG change.
The list is as follows (I know some of them are questionable, but TRUST ME! If you have all of these handy, and change them while you are re-doing the head gasket, you WILL save your self TONS OF HEADACHES and questions like "Why did I buy a supra!")
ARP bolts
new cam seals 2 of them
2 cam COVER seals
new timing belt
valve seals
heater hose that goes from back of head to heater
gasket that goes from thermostat housing to head
gasket for air intake plennum to head
gasket for air intake plennam to air intake chamber
gasket for throttle body
o ring for cam positioning sensor
o ring for dipstick
spark plug valey gasket (toyota or aftermarket item only)
new vent hose (goes from vavle cover to block, toyota item only)
exhaust manifold gasket
thermostat housing gasket
water pipe-water pipe to back of thermostat
all EGR gaskets(3 total I think) 2 small ovals 1 large square shape (EGR cooler)
Turbo charger oil return gasket
O ring kits for injectors
ISC or Idle Speed Control Gasket
Turbo charger to manifold gasket
Helicoils for the exhaust studs
New spark plugs (chances are, if you are doing a BHG you SMOKED your plugs)
That should do it. As for recommendations on what type of head gasket to use....
THIS HAS BEEN COVERED MANY TIMES! SEARCH!
Also, when getting your head prepaired to be put back onto the block:
Make sure your head is A+ clean and there is no HUGE carbon deposits on the face of the valves.
Lap your valves in with LIGHT valve lapping compound. Make sure to get all the compound OUT of the valve seats when finished.
Make sure to take your head to a RACE SHOP or ENGINE BUILDING SHOP! Do not take your head to a MACHINE shop. Why? Most machine shops will want to CUT the head on a mill. THIS IS NORMALLY A NO NO (WITH EXCEPTIONS). I will state DO NOT DO IT! Instead, have your head GROUND or "lapped" as some call it. You will have better results and a better overall finish on the surface of the head.
While the head is at the race shop, have them install the helicoils in the exhaust side.
Make sure to torque all your head bolts WET! Wet them with oil first. This will give you a more accurate torque reading. Again, this is up for debate just like the head gasket discussion.
Make sure to use a TOP QUALITY ASSEMBLY LUBE!
Be clean! DO NOT USE A LINT INFESTED RAG!
When putting back together the intake, there are two wires (actually four, but they are two and two paired together) They are brown and white. THESE ARE GROUNDING WIRES and are to go back to a good ground. THESE DO NOT go onto the starter LOL! If you do not ground these, your CAR WILL NOT START!
Last but not least...
TAKE YOUR FREAKN TIME! Don't be hesitant to consult the TSRM or http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM for answers or questions! Your supra wasn't built in an hour, and Rome wasn't built in a day..... HEAD GASKET REPAIRS AREN'T EITHER!
If any one has any thing to chime in that I missed, feel free to add / correct me.
Thanks, and good luck!
Added by Lonesuprarider from another supra site:
... just about covers all... Take it from my experience.. do the HeliCoils, make sure about the ERG cooler (use some locktight on the bolts as it is almost impossible to get to them once the head is put in the car), mark your wires and maybe take pictures before u take things apart, there is a lot of wires / connectors and vacumm placement things and odd brackets. Speaking of vacumm, maybe replace these tubes too as they me be old and dry. U will need some special tools if u are doing it, a 12 point 10mm socket as well as a 10mm allen head socket (stock head bolts), a 14mm or is it a 17mm allen head socket for head cover #3. Change the cam cover screws to something you can tighten up better than with a philips screw driver. If its a Turbo, good time to think about the boost controller. Also check out the Turbo since it is off. Check to make sure the oil return pipe (small one) is not blocked up with sludge. Good time to think of an oil filter relocation. Check out the radiator as it also is a contributor to BHG (crud stuck on the front side)
Thats my 2 cents... Good luck not that u will need it, just patience and small hands...
