What reliable modifications should I do?

[boostinsupragirl]

well i just got this supra and i am not sure what do with it yet? some bitch totaled my 600hp talon so now i am driving this supra that seams so slow. I don't wanna push too much power because this is my daily driver and i don't wanna see alot of tickets plus i don't wanna be fixing the thing all the time too,so i was thinking a intake,bov and some kinda exhaust, maybe a downpipe cut off so i can have loud but quite at the same time. so what intakes and bov's are good can anyone give me some kinda help.

thanks

 

[Big Wang Bandit]

From what ive been reading, A while ago. The Apex'i intake does the best filter to air intake, out of all.

While the HKS did the best intake, but no filtering.

Get a BOV you can recirculate, Because of our intake system(7m's) It meters the air before entering the manifolds(AFM). So if you vent it to the atmosphere the engine has no clue where the hell that bit of air went, and runs rich.

Exhaust is usually a personal preference. For a nice Divorced downpipe, go check out becauseican(BIC performance).

 

[tonysupra]

I have a apexi intake, which I recommend.
A tial bov, which I haven't installed yet.
I recommend a BIC ddp and whatever exhaust you want.

 

[Fletch124]

MAFT translator.

 

[SupraSonica]

K&N FIPK

Best intake I've had so far

 

[RHDMK3]

I have an HKS Intake, Trust BOV & a 3" Apexi exhaust. Seems to work wonderful for me so far. Do you want a loud BOV or a quite one?

 

[starscream5000]

I made my own adaptor to the AFM and bought a SS airfilter (Blitz style) that will last the life of the car. All you have to do is spray on some brake cleaner or some type of degreaser and it's clean again! Best performing downpipes are ones that have an integrated elbow one them also and are a full 3". I personally have a cooleeze DP, testpipe, his turbo inlet pipe (accordian hose replacement) and no cat back yet... I you get a divorced down pipe, many people have boost creeping issues.

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

well i just got this supra and i am not sure what do with it yet? some bitch totaled my 600hp talon so now i am driving this supra that seams so slow. I don't wanna push too much power because this is my daily driver and i don't wanna see alot of tickets plus i don't wanna be fixing the thing all the time too,so i was thinking a intake,bov and some kinda exhaust, maybe a downpipe cut off so i can have loud but quite at the same time. so what intakes and bov's are good can anyone give me some kinda help.

thanks

My kinda gurl....Yeah baby....How about do a compression check to see how healthy that motor is. A healthy compression is about 140 or above on all cylinders. If that is a green light then put a metal head gasket in and torque it down to 90ftlbs.Then the basic bolt ons like intakes, and raising the boost, fuel, and turbo upgrades are in order. Always keep oil levesl topped off.

 

[boostinsupragirl]

My kinda gurl....Yeah baby....How about do a compression check to see how healthy that motor is. A healthy compression is about 140 or above on all cylinders. If that is a green light then put a metal head gasket in and torque it down to 90ftlbs.Then the basic bolt ons like intakes, and raising the boost, fuel, and turbo upgrades are in order. Always keep oil levesl topped off.

well the prevous owner did the head about 20,000 miles ago,so i will wait on that.i will do the compression test tonight.I am always topping my oil off it leaks so bad. I am sure its the front main seal,wherever i go i leave puddles of p/s and oil.still waiting on my insurance check so i am fix my supra leaks. I kinda wanted a loud bov but one that doesn't vent.is the hks one ok?



you know sometimes when i am driving and go to give it gas it hesitates,anyone know what that could be?

 

[supra90turbo]

Welcome to the world of Supras. They're not as picky as DSM's, but they're close
First things you should do:
Perform a Compression Test, Leakdown Test, and Block Test.
Then, change the engine oil and filter(wix, i.e. napa gold, carquest. or purolator pureOne filters are really good), transmission oil(redline MTL or the like), and differential oil.
Change the fuel filter(wix).
Just so long as you don't use Fram, really.

IF you have good compression, I would retorque the stock head bolts to about 72lb/ft and see how long that lasts.
If you do blow your headgasket, you can't simply slap on a MHG, theres a lot of prep work involved. The 7M is a picky engine when Headgaskets are concerned, so you have to be very meticulous prepping the block and head for it.

after that, and only after that, should modifications be done.
Intake, I would suggest AEM DryFlow. No oil necessary, so you can't over-oil it and screw up the AFM, they're reasonably priced, and filter great.

BOV I can only see doing if yours is leaking. If you're doing it just to say that you've got a BOV, it's not worth the money. If yours is leaking, however, I would suggest picking up a Bosch 110 (or whatever model they are now :icon_razz) One or more of our vendors sells a complete kit that includes everything you need to install it and go.

Downpipe, I would suggest, as others have, a DP or DDP from BIC (www.bicperformance.com)
he makes some of the best parts available for these cars, and he's a member. May as well support a local guy.

Catback is purely preference. I had a crush bent 3" with an N1 can at the back. Sounded awesome. The hanger bracket broke off of the muffler, so I took it off and ran open DP. That sounded awesome too. It's all personal preference.

Exhaust cutouts are available through www.summitracing.com
I believe the brand is Quick Time Performance, keyword search QTP comes up with them IIRC.


Oh, and always keep the oil a quart overfull. it'll be nowhere close to the crank, and it keeps the pickup a little more submerged in the oil, as the 7M's oil pump pickup is just a little too high in the pan.

 

[onefstsupra89]

Supra90turbo you said to keep the oil a qt overflow you mean once the oil is to the correct line on the dip stick add another qt?

 

[supra90turbo]

Yes indeedy. Fill it to full, then put another quart in. Little margin of safety there, so even if you're a quart low, you're technically full.

 

[Justin727]

well i just got this supra and i am not sure what do with it yet? some bitch totaled my 600hp talon so now i am driving this supra that seams so slow. I don't wanna push too much power because this is my daily driver and i don't wanna see alot of tickets plus i don't wanna be fixing the thing all the time too,so i was thinking a intake,bov and some kinda exhaust, maybe a downpipe cut off so i can have loud but quite at the same time. so what intakes and bov's are good can anyone give me some kinda help.

thanks

Welcome to the world of Supra's! Not tryin to sound like a complete ass but if you built or had a 600hp talon you should already know the basics and building blocks as to which should and would be good! just use you're knowledge from building the dsm and yes you're going to have to do a multi layer head gasket on the 7m as well!
Good luck

 

[Caplax40]

If I were you, I'd skip getting a new BOV and use the money to fix the oil leaks. Also do the basic maintenance like a lot of people have already said. For Intake I'd recommend either an Apex'i Power Intake or AEM's dry flow. Can't go wrong either way. Exhaust is purely a matter of opinion and what you like. I have a BIC DP, TMS Hi-flow cat, and a Tanabe Super Hyper Medalion exhaust. Nice and quiet, very high flow, and emission friendly! Best of all worlds IMO.

 

[keo]

or save up and go 1jz lolz.
Basicaly do the regular maintanance stuff(belts, gaskets, lubs. and ....)

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

or save up and go 1jz lolz.
Basicaly do the regular maintanance stuff(belts, gaskets, lubs. and ....)

Why....? any properly built 7m will hand a 1Jz its azz. 1JZ's are ok if you want a stock motor platform that not necessarily needs to be opened, but they fail too ask Serzy, and a few others.. Go 2jz then all bets are off when it comes to power, and relaibility 2jz, or a proper built 7m. Never go jdm like many of the whiners here have done, and then complain that an old used motor failed you. See 7mpower.com, and notice all of the motors of choice making high hp was a BUILT 7m. Mibrums drag motor was a built 7m...let's not go 7m vs 1j bullshit either.You cant win... Toyota didn't come up with the stroked 2j motor because the 1j was all of that. The 2jz was built on the 1J weakness's just like the 1j was built on the7m's weakness. In the 2j they added .5 litres and more stroke on the1j platform. Now why do you think they did that Lucy! Displacement, and torque helps wins races hands down. Thats why race cars race in their engine displacement category. Not to mention the fact that the 2jz was designed to compete against the Vette. I am not trying to take away from the capeabilities of a 1j so DON'T even go there!

Also never tryto take the cheap way to fixa problem. Reliability and power don't come cheap. Then on top of every thing else always get a tune to see where afrs are after each mod to be safe. Detonation is a 7m's, or any cars enemy. A wideband will help with this to a point.

 

[supra90turbo]

easy qwik. he was clearly joking.

 

[GrimJack]

supra90turbo has the right ideas... maintenance first, then performance.

Oddly enough, a lot of the Talon knowledge doesn't transfer... they don't blow head gaskets, but they have balance shafts to remove, and their drivelines don't appreciate extra ponies, among other things.

The front main oil seal is actually pretty simple to replace. Pull the radiator shroud, fans, rad, belts, front main pulley, and timing belt covers, then pull off the timing gear and pull out the front main seal. Replace, and put it back together. An experienced Supra mechanic can do it in 60-90 minutes. You'll need 10, 12, 14, & 17mm wrenches, and a bunch of new coolant.

There is some excellent reading on the topic of performance here:http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17&highlight=order

Although keep in mind that some of what is listed there is out of date now... read up on the MAFT / MAFT pro for replacing the Lexus AFM. The basic order is still the same, though:
- Maintenance
- Intake
- Full Exhaust
- Gauges (so you know what you're doing)
- Boost control
- More fuel
- Intercooler & hardpipes
- Bigger turbo
After this point, you'd damn well better know what you're doing before you start messing with the world of nitrous, methane injection, standalone ECUs, etc, etc.

 

[Big Wang Bandit]

Why....? any properly built 7m will hand a 1Jz its azz. 1JZ's are ok if you want a stock motor platform that not necessarily needs to be opened, but they fail too ask Serzy, and a few others.. Go 2jz then all bets are off when it comes to power, and relaibility 2jz, or a proper built 7m. Never go jdm like many of the whiners here have done, and then complain that an old used motor failed you. See 7mpower.com, and notice all of the motors of choice making high hp was a BUILT 7m. Mibrums drag motor was a built 7m...let's not go 7m vs 1j bullshit either.You cant win... Toyota didn't come up with the stroked 2j motor because the 1j was all of that. The 2jz was built on the 1J weakness's just like the 1j was built on the7m's weakness. In the 2j they added .5 litres and more stroke on the1j platform. Now why do you think they did that Lucy! Displacement, and torque helps wins races hands down. Thats why race cars race in their engine displacement category. Not to mention the fact that the 2jz was designed to compete against the Vette. I am not trying to take away from the capeabilities of a 1j so DON'T even go there!

Also never tryto take the cheap way to fixa problem. Reliability and power don't come cheap. Then on top of every thing else always get a tune to see where afrs are after each mod to be safe. Detonation is a 7m's, or any cars enemy. A wideband will help with this to a point.

Yeah.... Easy there cowboy.

Too bad 99% of people are too lazy to build a 7m right.

1JZ = cure to cancer

 

[Justin727]

supra90turbo has the right ideas... maintenance first, then performance.

Oddly enough, a lot of the Talon knowledge doesn't transfer... they don't blow head gaskets, but they have balance shafts to remove, and their drivelines don't appreciate extra ponies, among other things.

The front main oil seal is actually pretty simple to replace. Pull the radiator shroud, fans, rad, belts, front main pulley, and timing belt covers, then pull off the timing gear and pull out the front main seal. Replace, and put it back together. An experienced Supra mechanic can do it in 60-90 minutes. You'll need 10, 12, 14, & 17mm wrenches, and a bunch of new coolant.

There is some excellent reading on the topic of performance here:http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17&highlight=order

Although keep in mind that some of what is listed there is out of date now... read up on the MAFT / MAFT pro for replacing the Lexus AFM. The basic order is still the same, though:
- Maintenance
- Intake
- Full Exhaust
- Gauges (so you know what you're doing)
- Boost control
- More fuel
- Intercooler & hardpipes
- Bigger turbo
After this point, you'd damn well better know what you're doing before you start messing with the world of nitrous, methane injection, standalone ECUs, etc, etc.

they do get bhg's. Not so much as our 7m. But besides that I have to agree with the rest.
Also if you have any turbo knowledge what so ever how does it not carry over???
ie: exhaust, intake, intercooler, pipes, bov, tuning
if you're mechanicly smart to build a 600hp turbo talon then you're more then half way there to the knowledge of building a 600hp supra.