Well, everything is back in place under the hood...

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
Old specs.
Bolt on T4/60-1 on a stock ported manifold. Coatings galore. Made about 420rwhp at 18psi, and was happy to be run at 21psi on the street on 91pump gas.

New turbo is Masterpower T-70 (Really a 69.5mm) Hot side is .63AR. Manifold is modified Ebay special. Coated of course :)
Revised all the IC pipes, and built new 4" ID intake pipe.
PCV system now breathes through Parker filter to trap any oil vapors...
Added some fire sleeve and abrasion wrap in places where the stainless was rubbing on stuff. (Like my AC lines!)
DP is wrapped 3" ID, coated etc.
WG is Ebay special, coated, ported and vented to atmosphere.. TBD if I like that much noise, if not, I'll build in a muffler for it.

Just need to get the MaftPro running and enjoy the car again.

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Oil system is same as before, with a full flow Canton filter on the right side, and the bypass OilGuard to the left with the green top and smaller AN lines.

I powdercoated a few more things since last time around too. :)
 

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
2,374
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indiucky
im not real crazy about the pcv line running above the turbine housing. it looks to be coated, that will help. but even still, a lot of radiant heat there. amhik. i'd keep a watch on it to make sure its ok.

why did you not coat the exhaust wrap?
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
IJ, the header coating is funny. I did not have enough "ceramchrome" or Turbo X to do it, so I mixed them together, and it came out a sort of Ti looking color...

Went on fine, they are both water born, from Techline, and they baked up great, so I'm expecting no problems. (Did the Waste gate housing as well..)

If it holds up great under normal use, I'd imagine that buying both, and mixing up the color where you want it should be no problem.

The black turbo housing is the full "Turbo X" coating, I don't think I have any just in the silver/ceramachrome, but I like the mix. (Should have tried it long ago. :) )



I agree that PCV line looks close to the housing, but it's Earl's best pushlock hose, has a very high silicone content, and I had it placed that way before with no noticable hardening of the hose for about a year. They were out of 1" ID flame sleeve, so when that's in stock again, I will most likely buy a few feet at 7.00 a foot, and cover that blue PCV line anyway :)

The coatings really do a great job of holding in the heat, and I've used the wrap both coated and uncoated, and have not really noticed any difference in heat control, or wrap life. (But the coatings do tend to flake off, especially on the clamps, so it looks like ass, so I did not coat the wrap this time around.)

BTW, if you do the wrap, wear gloves, and a long armed shirt. The fiberglass wrap is nasty! Makes you itch like a bugger. I've used a true ceramic woven fiber wrap, and it did not make me itch nearly as much, but the weave was not as tight as this fiberglass based wrap from DEI. (The other wrap was from a place called Cotronics, and they have some really interesting heat control products I've used before.) I would have used them again, but I was trying to get the job done, and the DEI stuff could be bought off the shelf, and I had to order the Cotronics wrap. (But Cotronics price is better, and they very well might have a better product. I'll find out as I have some old and new rap on the DP under the car...)

I found that wrapping my DP to the cat back flange really cuts down on the under hood heat, and what you get from the floor of the car too. (Especially on long trips, in hot weather. I think it does not transfer as much heat to the transmission either, but my thermaldispersant coated R154 runs cooler anyway.)

Another thermal control idea I've been kicking around is venting my stock hood. A MK4 owner here did his stock hood a few years ago, and it turned out very nice. I have some ideas similar to his, but fitting the MK3 body and hood.
Basicly a vent between the radiator and the engine in the hood bulge to let air out.
And two side vents, also designed to let air out, forward on the hood, just behind the pop up lights. This puts the vents in the areas of lowest pressure over the hood, and that should draw hot air out of the engine bay. With the new larger air filter, I'm going to build a heat shield to keep the hot air off the radiator out as much as possible, and the vent over the top should help to draw air through the snorkle hole over the filter. (There was just no room this time around for a CAI done in 4" ID pipe, and fitting 2.5" ID IC pipes there too.)

I figure there is plenty of air flow from the hole in the right apron where the stock IC pipe used to run, and the enlarged snorkle hole under the head lamp, it's just getting the air to flow the way I want now. ;)
 

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
3,137
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Richmond, VA
7MsuprO said:
You should report back on how that Masterpower is. I've heard a lot of good things and they're definitely affordable!

It's great.. I've yet to hear a negative first hand encounter. I love mine.
 

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
2,374
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indiucky
i understand what you are saying about the spray. it doesnt really help with heat, but helps prevent moisture seepage and i just think it looks better. i agree if it started to flake it would look pretty bad tho. ive never experienced that, but i usually use the metal zip cords.
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
Well, the bolt on T4 60-1 was excellent on the stock motor, but with the stroker, it was like a stock CT again. (Awesome spool up, but then no more joy after about 5500rpm.) So, I'm pretty sure the MasterPower will be fun. (I also talked to a few people with them, and every single one liked the turbo.

Yep, on the color, it supprised me how nice it turned out. I had about even parts of both, but not enough of either to spray out the manifold and waste gate housing.. so I just mixed them both together, and it turned into a shiny gray Ti effect. Give it a try if you want, so far it baked up like normal, no problems at all. (And I expect it will hold up like normal too.)