Upgrades for stock rebuild

[cyanide54]

Hey guys,

Currently doing a re and re on my mk3, already have the motor back from the machine shop and went with a fully stock rebuild as I thought I was going to be selling it. Now I've decided to have a bit of fun with the car. By that i plan to run stock turbo with a manual boost controller, a MAFTpro on speed density, wideband, boost guage, hardpipes and an aftermarket intercooler, possibly meth, and a new exhaust. My goal is around 300 to the wheels. Anything else you guys would reccomend? Injectors? Headstuds? (Motor is in full longblock state as of now, with timing set to tdc and timing belt on.)

Thanks boys.

 

[Bogwon]

I can only comment on the amount of reading I've done on the forums here so please take my advice with a grain of salt as I've only recently (2 years) delved into the realm of the Supra.

I hear ARP studs are a given and if you've got the block out of the car anyway, deck it along with the head and look at getting a MHG (Metal head gasket). This way you won't have to worry about a BHG (blown head gasket) every time you make a pull. Good information here on HG selection. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?97552-Head-Gasket-thickness-selection

The Lexus afm/550cc injector "hack" is a pretty standard build for the 7MGTE motor. Google has a great wealth of info on this. Here is just one source. http://www.mkiiisupra.net/joomla/index2.php?option=com_content&do_pdf=1&id=31

Your Goal of 300hp to the wheels is easily obtainable with these cars. Good luck and happy wrenching!

-Taylor

 

[supraguy@aol]

Yeah, if you are only looking for 300rwhp, then a Lex/550 setup/ mbc, and a freeflow exhaust(turbo elbow) is all you need to do to get there.
You don't need a meth kit or MAFT pro, etc. keep it simple.
Like Bogwon said, arp's are a good idea, but even a Felpro or toyota headgasket is reliable enough for
that power goal. But if theres any chance that you might want to up the power later, then you should consider a metal
head gasket as well.

 

[Trent]

If I had a nickel for everytime someone claimed they "only wanted xxxHP" and ended up wanting way more, I'd have a whole buncha nickels

Take the precautions and build it to support a good amount more than what you think you will want to do. Motor is out, have the MHG put on with the ARP bolts or studs, do the Lex/550/Walbro/AFPR, and go from there. That will give you the foundation to be able to go for more later if you want and can still be just fine for the 300rwhp you claim is all you want.

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

If I had a nickel for everytime someone claimed they "only wanted xxxHP" and ended up wanting way more, I'd have a whole buncha nickels

Take the precautions and build it to support a good amount more than what you think you will want to do. Motor is out, have the MHG put on with the ARP bolts or studs, do the Lex/550/Walbro/AFPR, and go from there. That will give you the foundation to be able to go for more later if you want and can still be just fine for the 300rwhp you claim is all you want.

I could not have said it better myself!

 

[cyanide54]

Well I'm going to be putting the car up for sale after I'm done building it, so I figured I may as well have it moderately fast and have some fun with it before I am selling.

One of my concerns is the tune when I go with injectors and an afm, even with just an intake I had stalling issues. So I may go with a maftpro since its only about 400 bucks, just to be safe.

Can I go with headstuds while the head is on the motor?

Thanks for the replies!

 

[88mk3supra]

i have an aem ems v1 with all sensors needed comes with a custom plug and play harness for 1000 shipped if your interested! also i have a rebuilt similar to stock but upgraded 7mgte motor .20 over valve work, headwork, balanced, arps, mhg, ect. includes vvti coils and dh61 ignitor also 57 trim ct26 turbo everything listed has 7000 lightly miles for 1900 shipped let me know if you would want anything man

 

[cyanide54]

Hey guys,

sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but I have a couple more questions.

ended up running with a metal head gasket and studs. also getting a billet wheel for the turbo and a couple other small upgrades.

one of the issues I'm having is to do with the oiling system. I plan on swapping to a remote filter and constant cooler setup and blocking the oil drainback in the pan for the cooler. Do I need to shim the stock oil pump? I've heard 5mm from many different threads but most guys are shooting for 400-500 hp. this setup will have the potential for that, but I don't have plans to do injectors or a lexus maf as I want the car back together and sold.

Also if you guys have any pictures to share of 7m's in partially or fully built state OUT OF CAR, that would be a huge help as I'm at times having trouble at times putting this maze of parts back together.

 

[cyanide54]

bump.

anyone got some help here?

 

[mcammarn]

Post pictures of what your unsure of. There's plenty of people here that can help you

 

[jake8790]

Shim the oil pump 5mm. I saw about 90 psi max oil pressure while cold with the oil pump relief shimmed 5mm, which is still in the safe range. This is without the factory oil cooler relief.

 

[cyanide54]

Hole for oil pump in block has 3 bolt holes surrounding it, one is to bolt down the pump, what about the other two? Different pump styles? (midsump etc)

 

[supraguy@aol]

Post a pic.

 

[cyanide54]

stolen from supra forums.

http://ij.supramania.com/blocks02.jpg

if your looking at this photo, bottom right hand corner of the pic there is the hole for the oil pump gear, then a hole above it, as well as to the left and right. I know the right one is for the pump mounting bolt, and the other two?

 

[supraguy@aol]

Looked at some of my build pics, but didn't have one that showed my pump install too clearly.
I'm thinking that not all three are used.

 

[cyanide54]

Hey gents, thread back from the dead!

I searched around for photos etc but everyone seems to use aftermarket clutches when reinstalling their r154. I'm currently installing bone stock clutch and pressure plate.. Which side of the clutch faces the flywheel? One side has a longer, conical hub for the splines and the other side has a shorter hub with a machined step in it. Just want to be sure. And I assume the easiest way to go about installing the r154 is clutch/pressure plate on input shaft, then bolt tranny to block and install pressure plate bolts through access port on bellhousing? Happens a bit differently than what I'm used to with mustangs

Thanks for the help boys.

 

[atmperformance]

Silicone hose kit

 

[mk2 supra]

Hey gents, thread back from the dead!

I searched around for photos etc but everyone seems to use aftermarket clutches when reinstalling their r154. I'm currently installing bone stock clutch and pressure plate.. Which side of the clutch faces the flywheel? One side has a longer, conical hub for the splines and the other side has a shorter hub with a machined step in it. Just want to be sure. And I assume the easiest way to go about installing the r154 is clutch/pressure plate on input shaft, then bolt tranny to block and install pressure plate bolts through access port on bellhousing? Happens a bit differently than what I'm used to with mustangs

Thanks for the help boys.

NO!!!! First of all, you want a better than stock clutch if youre wanting 300 whp, Clutch kits come with an alignment tool, you use this to bolt the pressure plate to FW first, in a star pattern, then comes the trans/bellhousing bolts. This would be the same with a T5 found in mustangs

 

[hvyman]

^ no you no. With the r154 the pressure place and clutch disc slide on the trans and the trans gets bolted to the engine and then you bolts the pressure plate to the fly wheel.

Direction of the clutch disc is which ever way doesn't rub on the flywheel bolts. Iirc it's the side that sticks out farther goes towards the pressure place.

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

Rofl I can't believe that this thread is still going on. You probably should have paid to get this thing assembled by a professional and then just drop it in. I have found that poor assembly skills to be the main reason for the rod knock life within day's or months. Good luck!