unsprung weight
- Thread starter 3.0trd
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Yep, so far as I remember they're lighter.
The TT wheels MIGHT be heavier as they are larger and wider than the blades. I think the last year was the lightest...
A good set of aftermarket wheels are generally lighter than both though, just gotta find weights.
The TT wheels MIGHT be heavier as they are larger and wider than the blades. I think the last year was the lightest...
A good set of aftermarket wheels are generally lighter than both though, just gotta find weights.
They are still crazy heavy.. Want some light rims? look in to 5zigen FN01rc or even better enkei RPF1's, my 18x10.5 is 19 lbs w/o tires.
I picked up some Rays wheels (not sure of the model) a while ago pretty cheap, they are light as! Wouldnt be suprised if the tyres weighed more! Look alot better than A80 wheels too.
Hell, most enkei wheels are lighter. Mine sure seem a whole lot lighter than I thought they would be.
Like Boris said, Enkeis and Fn01s are good, cheap, lightweight wheels. And they look a lot better than any stock supra wheels.
But you also might not be losing much/any unspring weight depending on wheel and tire size. You can lose 4lbs with a wheel, but gain it all back with the tire. So you might break even, you might lose a little, you might gain a little.
But a lighter wheel is a step in the right direction, just don't expect a 10" wide wheel with a 275 on it to weight a lot less than a sawblade with a 225 on it.
Almost forgot to say something. Even though you won't be losing unsprung weight, you will be gaining more available traction and have better overall grip with a wider tire/wheel package. So a little unsprung weight gain is acceptable for the overall increase in grip.
Tim
But you also might not be losing much/any unspring weight depending on wheel and tire size. You can lose 4lbs with a wheel, but gain it all back with the tire. So you might break even, you might lose a little, you might gain a little.
But a lighter wheel is a step in the right direction, just don't expect a 10" wide wheel with a 275 on it to weight a lot less than a sawblade with a 225 on it.
Almost forgot to say something. Even though you won't be losing unsprung weight, you will be gaining more available traction and have better overall grip with a wider tire/wheel package. So a little unsprung weight gain is acceptable for the overall increase in grip.
Tim
But larger diameter wheels will usually increase weight and rotational mass (the farther out from the center the mass is, the more is function as a gyro).
Overall performance will be affected (acceleration, braking, steering).
Overall performance will be affected (acceleration, braking, steering).
It can increase weight and rotational inertia, but it's not always the case.
There are always compromises. Some things may suffer with a bigger wheel and wider tire. But in most cases, the benefits outweigh the negative effects. As long as you pick a decent wheel and not some super cheap, super heavy piece of junk, you will be fine.
Just compare some tire weights of the same tire in the same width in different wheel diameters and the same wheel in different diameters but the same width.
I mean there's just too many variables to just talk about it theoretically without some actual data. Because you could replace the sawblades with some cheap 18's that weight 35lbs each or you could replace them with a good lighter wheel that's 4" wider and weighs 5lbs less.
But I will always take a wider wheel/tire with a slightly higher rotational moment of inertia over a skinny wheel/tire with a lower moment of inertia.
There are always compromises. Some things may suffer with a bigger wheel and wider tire. But in most cases, the benefits outweigh the negative effects. As long as you pick a decent wheel and not some super cheap, super heavy piece of junk, you will be fine.
Just compare some tire weights of the same tire in the same width in different wheel diameters and the same wheel in different diameters but the same width.
I mean there's just too many variables to just talk about it theoretically without some actual data. Because you could replace the sawblades with some cheap 18's that weight 35lbs each or you could replace them with a good lighter wheel that's 4" wider and weighs 5lbs less.
But I will always take a wider wheel/tire with a slightly higher rotational moment of inertia over a skinny wheel/tire with a lower moment of inertia.
If it helps at all my Kosei K3s weigh 20lbs each and were pretty cheap...
Here is a link.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whee...osei&wheelModel=K3&wheelFinish=Silver+Painted
I guess they might be too thin for some people though at 18x8.5.
Here is a link.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whee...osei&wheelModel=K3&wheelFinish=Silver+Painted
I guess they might be too thin for some people though at 18x8.5.
I usually tell people not to increase diameter of the wheel unless they need to to clear a BBK...
Sawblades are HEAVY. They're in the twenties. I think 22lbs or something per wheel.
MKIV TT wheels are very close to that. I think the rears are 25lbs, and the fronts are 20-22lbs.
MKIII 5-spokes, if you can find them, are about 16lbs each IIRC. A significant change from sawblades if you want to stay with the same tire size.
MKIV TT wheels are very close to that. I think the rears are 25lbs, and the fronts are 20-22lbs.
MKIII 5-spokes, if you can find them, are about 16lbs each IIRC. A significant change from sawblades if you want to stay with the same tire size.