Turbos standard GT35R pt6262 pt6265 pt6765

please read the post, Which turbo?


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    11

87targa

New Member
Nov 14, 2005
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Utah
I am wondering what others think and this question has probably been asked a million times but the threads seem to go off on a tangent.

I am thinking about a new turbo.

My garrett 35R has broken turbine fins....something, possibly slag from the ebay manifold, got into it so now i can't boost more than 11psi. So I can either get the replacement 35R cartridge for $425 minus shipping from turbosdirect or buy a new turbo. The 35r has been a fun turbo. I saw 25psi with the twin scroll 1.06 t4 housing on it at about 4k. I noticed full boost moving up the rpm range so I bought a new housing. I changed out the hot side to an open 0.86 t4 and that is when i noticed the broken fins.

So the options i have thought of for the 7m:
  1. get a new CHRA for the 35r (cheapest)
  2. get a precision 6262 journal (extra $500 from option 1)
  3. 6265 journal (extra $500 from option 1)
  4. 6765 journal (extra $500 from option 1)
I chose the journal ones because i can afford up to $1k. The precision turbos have the billet wheels which from graphs i have seen seem to out perform a regular garrett gt turbo (not the new gtx stuff).

from my understanding the 626x is similar to the garrett 35r but with better power everywhere. i'm not sure if that is the bb version for the precisions or not. the 6765 is a different turbo all together.

I'm wanting to make 500-550 pump, no qsv, on a mustang dyno (not a dynojet) but with nice response (full boost, 25psi, at 4k is fine but not after 4k) like the 35R with the big hot side. I am at 346 hp on the mustang dyno with power holding all the way to 7k and torque dropping off a cliff (dynoed with the broken fins).
 
Last edited:

gurley0916

Gurley=Last Name not girl
Mar 10, 2008
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Columbus,OH
i love my 67mm from precision with a .81 divided hosing u get great response and should have 20 psi by 4k and max boost by 4200. big enough to not blow tires off and u can make more power at lower psi which is nice with pump gas

heres my dyno for reference. my housing is .81 undivided so with a divided u will have no problem....i also had a .70 divided housing and that gave super response and 20 psi by 3600

61d597b6-28c4-d87f.jpg

61d597b6-28eb-8f9c.jpg
 

87targa

New Member
Nov 14, 2005
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Utah
thanks for the posts guys.

gurley: is that a bb unit or journal. which 67mm do you have? the 6766, 6765, 6768. I'm assuming you have the billet wheel?
 

gurley0916

Gurley=Last Name not girl
Mar 10, 2008
1,138
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Columbus,OH
It is not the billet version of there turbo, and it is just single ball bearing. The turbo I have is their 1st series were they still used all Garrett parts so all there new stuff you listed are going to be leaps and bounds better than what I have in all respects. My friend has a T67 on his 7m that is journal bearing with a divided .81 and has the exact characteristics that I have mentioned so this should give you and idea of what to expect.
 

toyotanos

What will we break today?
Staff member
Super Moderator
Nov 29, 2008
2,841
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Coon Rapids, MN
Just for some comparison, this is my 7M with its BB Comp turbo 67mm, .81 hotside. Love it, but it is a bit laggy for what most people would want. If yo do go journal 67, get a 6769- couple guys here using them with great results!

p1775144_1.jpg
 

quake

toyota tech
Apr 13, 2005
619
0
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r.i.
87targa;1774663 said:
I am wondering what others think and this question has probably been asked a million times but the threads seem to go off on a tangent.

I am thinking about a new turbo.

My garrett 35R has broken turbine fins....something, possibly slag from the ebay manifold, got into it so now i can't boost more than 11psi. So I can either get the replacement 35R cartridge for $425 minus shipping from turbosdirect or buy a new turbo. The 35r has been a fun turbo. I saw 25psi with the twin scroll 1.06 t4 housing on it at about 4k. I noticed full boost moving up the rpm range so I bought a new housing. I changed out the hot side to an open 0.86 t4 and that is when i noticed the broken fins.

So the options i have thought of for the 7m:
  1. get a new CHRA for the 35r (cheapest)
  2. get a precision 6262 journal (extra $500 from option 1)
  3. 6265 journal (extra $500 from option 1)
  4. 6765 journal (extra $500 from option 1)
I chose the journal ones because i can afford up to $1k. The precision turbos have the billet wheels which from graphs i have seen seem to out perform a regular garrett gt turbo (not the new gtx stuff).

from my understanding the 626x is similar to the garrett 35r but with better power everywhere. i'm not sure if that is the bb version for the precisions or not. the 6765 is a different turbo all together.

I'm wanting to make 500-550 pump, no qsv, on a mustang dyno (not a dynojet) but with nice response (full boost, 25psi, at 4k is fine but not after 4k) like the 35R with the big hot side. I am at 346 hp on the mustang dyno with power holding all the way to 7k and torque dropping off a cliff (dynoed with the broken fins).

6765 journal bearing dont waste money on a bb. It's hard to look at a dyno sheet and get an idea of the feeling of the car. Also forget about "when you hit full boost", hitting too early just helps with tire spin. Also it will limit how the car pulls as the revs go up. Put a .81ar on it to start out then give yourself time to get used to it. I bump into "quick spooling" cars all the time. Most of the time they dont even get a jump on you. Sometimes they get a half car length, then it looks like they hit the brakes when i go by lol. Also don't use the comp unit go precision.
 

gurley0916

Gurley=Last Name not girl
Mar 10, 2008
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Columbus,OH
i used to feel the same about bb and thought they were a waste but now i will never go back i love the characteristics they have but to each there own...
 

IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
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PT 6766
Dual Ball Bearing
Billet Wheel
Ported Cover

That is one badass turbo. If I do a 2J for a street car, it would Definately get a 6266 with all those options and I guarantee it will pull up top without any problem. 2J 6266 in a S14. :squirt-mo
 

87targa

New Member
Nov 14, 2005
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Utah
I'm most likely going with the pt6766sp journal bearing t4 1.00 divided v-band. If i don't like the feel to that i'll switch to the 0.84 housing. The weirdest thing though...precision says their v-band is 3-5/8" WTF? i'm assuming that's the OD of the v-band so will it work with normal 3" v-bands?? hum...

I know the 1.8T and the 2.0T VW ppl using the 6766sp have full boost (25-30psi) at 5000-5500 and really good flowing motors get it around 4800. so i'm assuming that i should see full boost at least around 4000-4500?

no i just don't want to have to modify my manifold to accommodate the QSV.

I believe BB and journal on initial spool and single pulls are about the same. I've heard that BB really shines above journal during shifts or when you let off for a second because respool is faster.

I was also thinking about the HX40 or HX40/35 hybrid. they are 70 lb/min turbos which should give me enough flow to reach my goal. the hardest part is to find it in a t4 3" v-band. i've had one on a 4g with a billet wheel that spooled fast as hell (3500 rpm or so) and made around 600 at 25lbs. the great thing with the holset is that any turbo shop where i am can rebuild them for cheap and fast.
 

Flateric

New Member
Mar 26, 2008
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
A quickspool can lower where you see your full boost by as much as 800rpm or more.

But even prior to that you'll of course see benefits.

I'll be putting one on my car with my dual BB Turbonetic T78. It's like having a small hotside (1/2 of it's size) while building your boost.
 

foreverpsycotic

Back in the game!
Jul 16, 2006
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Nothing wrong with a Holset, I would get the new turbine housing from Bullseye though, makes the fit beautiful, there is a pic of it in my build thread (link in sig). They are t3 turbos though, so you will either need to run an adapter, redrill your flange or get a new manifold.
 

87targa

New Member
Nov 14, 2005
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Utah
yea there's nothing wrong with QSV I just can't use one or i'll have to replace my manifold. I don't have an undivided manifold.

T3 stuff I can drill my spacer to fit.