to ceramic coat or not....

[gilberjj]

There is a place that is ceramic coating cheap, but due to complications, it would cost me not driving my car for another 3 or so weeks. I've already not had my car for over 2.5 months, and im ready to drive my car.... here are the parts i wanted to ceramic coat

greddy manifold
turbine houseing
wastegate houseing.... (is this possible?)
downpipe (do you ceramic coat over a flex section?)
and maybe upper intercooler pipe

all this would only cost like $60
http://www.findbikeshop.com/bikeshop/Ken-s-Powder-Coating-spanaway-15965.htm

my question is, can i coat my wastegate houseing, flex pipe, and would it be good to coat the intercooler pipe that runs across the turbo????

 

[Brady]

are you gonna take all the parts off yourself?

 

[Rennat]

Just do it, you'll thank yourself later, and it looks amazing when done right... if you want pictures of the engine im doing, i'll gladly share, i had the mani, hot side of turbo, and the o2 housing done, inside and out. they look awesome.

 

[SMP142]

are you having just the inside done? or both inside and outside?

 

[willfish]

+ 1 for ceramic


Will

 

[IJ.]

Yes

 

[jdub]

Yes - a couple of things though:

- Make sure a 2000 deg rated coating is used...especially on exhaust parts. Otherwise the heat will cause problems with coating adhesion.

- If its done right, the parts are bead blasted (all rust & carbon is removed inside/outside to bare metal) then the coating is baked on at 500 deg. This is mandatory for the coating to bond to the metal...otherwise you will have flaking/chipping problems. Handling the parts after you bead blast should be done with gloves...the oil from your skin has the same effect.

- All exhaust parts should be coated on the inside, otherwise the thermal effects will crack the coating. This requires a special rotary spray head on a flexible wand.

- You cannot coat a flex section...the ceramic will crack.

- You can coat the wastegate, but it will have to be disassembled. Make sure the mating surfaces are masked off to prevent re-assembly problems...do not coat the spring, piston, or cylinder...outside only. You cannot coat any part that has rubber/plastic parts you can't remove...the bake on process will melt them...I know this for a fact

- Coating the IC pipe will provide a thermal barrier against radiated heat from the motor for the charge air flowing to the intake manifold. I would do it and it looks good...a 1500 deg coating is fine for IC piping.

BTW - I don't see how he can possibly do it that cheap...the ceramic coating I use costs over 4 times that price for 1 gallon and the parts you listed would take ~3/4 gallon to do. Plus the time involved to do it right...well, you get the idea.

 

[starscream5000]

Hey John, can you hook me up with everything listed there for $60 bucks??

You do competitive matching, don't you?

Just joking.

I'll be having some parts shipped to you this spring I'd say if all goes well.

 

[dbsupra90]

be sure it is ceramic coating and not powder coating. big difference.

 

[pb92supraturbo]

Not true . . . I think it depends on the type of flex section used. My BIC downpipe is ceramic coated, including the flex section. I could see one of the 'weave' type flex sections not being able to retain ceramic coating simply because they are too flexible. My BIC downpipe has been on my car for over 1.5 years and the coating has held up perfect. I still looks like brand new in the picture.

Yes - a couple of things though:

- You cannot coat a flex section...the ceramic will crack.

 

[OneJoeZee]

I had both my exhaust manifolds, both turbine housings, and both downpipes ceramic coated.

Before ceramic coating, I could barely put my face near the turbo side of the engine bay.

After, I'm able to actually put my hands and face near the turbos without baking myself.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/Turbo-Joe/PICT0166.jpg
[ignore the ugly and broken couplers. I replaced them.]


Definately worth it. And it looks great too! (Do it in black. )

 

[jdub]

Not true . . . I think it depends on the type of flex section used. My BIC downpipe is ceramic coated, including the flex section. I could see one of the 'weave' type flex sections not being able to retain ceramic coating simply because they are too flexible. My BIC downpipe has been on my car for over 1.5 years and the coating has held up perfect. I still looks like brand new in the picture.

Do it if you like...suggest you get under the car and take a close look at the gaps in the flex...and if it's made out of mild steel, those little chips will rust. Rather quickly with the heat that is present too.

But, who am I to know...I've only coated 25-30 downpipes.

 

[pb92supraturbo]

Just stating the facts on my own personal experience. I'm under my car routinely(just over a week ago) and there is no rust or chipped areas in the gaps of the flex section on my downpipe.

Do it if you like...suggest you get under the car and take a close look at the gaps in the flex...and if it's made out of mild steel, those little chips will rust. Rather quickly with the heat that is present too.

But, who am I to know...I've only coated 25-30 downpipes.

 

[gilberjj]

well thanks for all the responses, i was kinda hoping to be able to drive my car this weekend, but i guess i should do it right and do it once. the black ceramic coat that ill use for the exhaust pieces is good for 2000 degrees. ill use a silver ceramic coat for the intercooler pipe, but thats only good to 1500 degrees. The problem with the black coating is that he bakes them at 550 degrees, but to get fully baked it takes 700. so i have to make sure to not get it wet before running them through a good heat cycle on my car. problem is, ill be breaking in my clutch at that time, what are commen exhaust temps just driving around town and cruising down the freeway???
i don't know how he does it so cheap though, my buddy got an eclipse 3" dp done for $25, and that included a bead blast, inside and out. its an old ma and pa shop and they do great deals. i kinda pulled $60 from my butt, but i imagine it will be around that price.

 

[jdub]

Just stating the facts on my own personal experience. I'm under my car routinely(just over a week ago) and there is no rust or chipped areas in the gaps of the flex section on my downpipe.

I was using my experience as well...based on coating a lot more pipes than just one. I stopped coating flex sections due to the reason I stated...no way from the beginning on the braided type. To tell me it's not true is, frankly, an insult...especially based on one pipe.

i kinda pulled $60 from my butt, but i imagine it will be around that price.

Yeah...might want to get a real quote. Especially for a tube header and turbine housing. Pipes are easy...you just have to pay attention when doing the inside. Might want to ask about some of the info I posted when you get the quote...ask about coating the inside of that Greddy manifold.

 

[pb92supraturbo]

Well, I’m not going to get into a pissing match over it. Since you've actually done the coating and I'm just an end user of a similar product, I guess your statement holds water and mine doesn’t.

I do however know for a fact that my flex section has retained its ceramic coating and can provide pictures to back it.

I apologize for making a statement and insulting you on a subject matter that I clearly have less experience than you do.

I was using my experience as well...based on coating a lot more pipes than just one. I stopped coating flex sections due to the reason I stated...no way from the beginning on the braided type. To tell me it's not true is, frankly, an insult...especially based on one pipe.

 

[IJ.]

I'd be more concerned about getting all of the blasting media out of the flex section before coating. (Aluminium oxide gets into every crevice)

 

[gilberjj]

he uses a sand blaster, and i still haven't got a quote

 

[IJ.]

A sandblaster loaded with Aluminium Oxide

 

[starscream5000]

:rofl: