Timing, Timing, and More $)(#&)(#&$_(%#_($* Timing

BlackDynamite

BlackDynamite

KTHXBIA
Feb 24, 2007
715
0
0
Telluride, Colorado-------Dothan, Alabama------Lak
www.facebook.com
OK, so i've trying to figure out the sputter and i bought a reman distributor. Ok, so every time i've rebuilt a 7m, i never get the timing Dead on the first time, but enough playing with it,i eventually get it. Well, I got the new distributor in and noticed the mechanical timing was off a cog, so i adjusted it and had it in perfect time. I had the paper clip in the connector thingy and it was good. Idling perfect at 800 rpm, like a kitten. Then i started to drive and it got up to 3000 rpms, and it started to sputter/ back fire. I noticed the check engine light coming on and off every time it backfired. But, it would idle perfect after every time it did it. I'm guessing the engine was retarding the timing so i didn't blow up my engine, but wtf. Perfect timing = backfire? New Distributor, knock sensor, cap, wires, spark plugs, headgasket, head bolts, every damn thing. THis motor is breakin my balls. :1zhelp:

Edit-I do not have any codes, and this motor has upped compression from the machine work on head and block.
 
Last edited:
A

AJ'S 88NA

New Member
Jul 26, 2007
2,419
0
0
Florida
That sure sounds like a timing problem to me, or might have a problem with the distributor, new or rebuilt? Have you checked your firing order?
 
BlackDynamite

BlackDynamite

KTHXBIA
Feb 24, 2007
715
0
0
Telluride, Colorado-------Dothan, Alabama------Lak
www.facebook.com
it was a rebuilt one from advanced auto. I can try to put in the old one and see what happens. The firing order should be A OK. I mean, would it idle perfectly with a plug wire wrong?

I had some weird codes. A code 22, and 43. also code 11 after I cleared codes. WHY THE HELL is my starter code coming up? It's new when i bought the car and has never failed me yet.

Though, the people before me could have not cleared the codes...it's possible


OH, it's running a little richer than before...maybe because of the retarding of t3h timing.

OH and THe EFI fuse popped. It happened while i was putting the paper clip in the diagnostic clip.
 
BlackDynamite

BlackDynamite

KTHXBIA
Feb 24, 2007
715
0
0
Telluride, Colorado-------Dothan, Alabama------Lak
www.facebook.com
full, and it should be. I mean, it sudenly came loose when i put on the new distributor? i doubt it. i'll check though.

I'm gonna put on the old distributor on and see what happens.

Also, How can you find out top dead center, without using the mark on the crank pully?

The reason i ask, is that when we got the car, the pulley was loose. So i took it off and it had wore away at the crank pin(moonshaped unit that holds crank in place.)

Well, with some locktight and time, i got the pin straight. And i haven't removed the crank pully since. But it's on there tight and if it did move it would only be by 5 degrees or so.
 
A

AJ'S 88NA

New Member
Jul 26, 2007
2,419
0
0
Florida
Take out the #1 plug and put a pencil in the hole. Slowly turn the crank and watch the pencil until it stops going up, check your mark and it shoud be on the "O". The rotor should be pointing at #1 plug wire and the cam gears should be lined up on the marks. You'll have to check the rotor as you can have it 180 out.
 
BlackDynamite

BlackDynamite

KTHXBIA
Feb 24, 2007
715
0
0
Telluride, Colorado-------Dothan, Alabama------Lak
www.facebook.com
Well, Now i have a few little kinks, but i did some tinkering today. Since i thought the crank pulley may be off, instead of putting it at 0, i moved it to 10 degree's as my TDC. Set the cams and it ran very similar to what i had before i changed the distributor. But every once in a while it will stutter around 3000 rpms, but it revs all the way up now. WHAT the hell is up with my motor. I can't get it Just right, but i was curious. Whenever you jump the terminals with the paper clip, what are you doing there? I mean, what if i were to change the timing, without the paper clip in?
 
A

AJ'S 88NA

New Member
Jul 26, 2007
2,419
0
0
Florida
BlackDynamite;1286555 said:
Well, Now i have a few little kinks, but i did some tinkering today. Since i thought the crank pulley may be off, instead of putting it at 0, i moved it to 10 degree's as my TDC. Set the cams and it ran very similar to what i had before i changed the distributor. But every once in a while it will stutter around 3000 rpms, but it revs all the way up now. WHAT the hell is up with my motor. I can't get it Just right, but i was curious. Whenever you jump the terminals with the paper clip, what are you doing there? I mean, what if i were to change the timing, without the paper clip in?
Click to expand...
I don't really understand how the crank pulley is off. Do you mean that the key was messed up and you have it just bolted on? I don't think that it will stay in place were it's suppose to be. The key way is what keeps it in place, the bolt holds it on. Check for TDC with the pencil. Then you will know how far off it is.

When you use a jumper wire you take out the timing adjustments the ECU will make so you can get an exact base timing without the ECU correcting it.
 
cuel

cuel

Supramania Contributor
Jan 8, 2007
1,536
0
0
Baytown, Texas
You should check the code 22, and test accordingly(coolant temp sensor).

The 11 could be from popping the efi fuse. Reset the ecu again.
 
BlackDynamite

BlackDynamite

KTHXBIA
Feb 24, 2007
715
0
0
Telluride, Colorado-------Dothan, Alabama------Lak
www.facebook.com
The coolant temp sensor had a split in the wire, which i fixed with electrical tape and a plastic piece. It has never throw that code until i messed with the wire that connects to the distributor, which connects to the wire that was split. Must have moved it wrong. Works fine and hasn't thrown the code since. I only get a code 11 after i rev the car up...then it will go back to the normal blinking. I'll reset for shits and giggles.
 
S

Spade

7M or DIE Trying
Nov 26, 2007
54
0
0
Asheville
Dam man you going through the EXACT same thing im going through! Crank key and everything except im running a turbo head. Wow what a stroke of luck someone with my exact same problem. Try checking your tps for spec. then try adjusting it. if it is not in spec and you can not git it in spec it probally need to be replaced. Also for shi*s and giggles check you maf to. I adjusted my tps and the stutter went to a different rpm. mines at 4000 untill i adjust my tps then it moves around from 3300 to 5600 rpm. I chould be wrong but its worth a try. let me know how it goes. :runaway:
 
A

AJ'S 88NA

New Member
Jul 26, 2007
2,419
0
0
Florida
BlackDynamite;1287488 said:
well, i took the new distributor off and put old one back in EXACT same place and set 10 Degrees as my TDC. Revs and runs fine.

W T F F F F F

I guess the old one was ok.... :wtf:


Timing was set a little past 15 Degrees. But remember my TDC is at 10, not 0.

I put screw driver in and it started to go down at 0
Click to expand...
If your TDC is at +10 degrees then stock timing should be set at +20 on yours, might be a guess, the gauge only shows +15.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom