Timing Issue?Help!

[Supramk389]

With may crank pulley at top dead center and my (stock) cam gear marks lined up, I can't get the teeth right for the timing belt to go on correctly (with proper tension. I'm running high boost 16-20 lbs. so should the timing be dead on or should i advance or retard it a little?

 

[WhtMa71]

Your cam timing needs to be dead on with stock gears. You should have no problem getting the teeth to line up. It may look a tad off(maybe a mm or so) but it should all line up pretty well. It also depends on if you've had the head/block machined and didn't correct it with a thinker head gasket.

Once you get it lined up correctly and have the tensioner bolt fairly snug, turn the motor over a few times and line the crank pulley back up to 0 and make sure the cam gears still line up. Torque the tensioner to 36ft/lbs.

 

[92TealSupra]

I have never had problems lining up everything. like stated have you had your head, or block machined before? Also check your tension spring to make sure it is in spec.

TSRM for that.

 

[Supramk389]

the head was machined and a 2mm stopper head gasket was installed done by Proven performance in CT. They should have known what they were doing. With crank pulley at 0 the cam gears appear to be off about half a tooth (to the right). Will this be ok?

 

[92TealSupra]

the head was machined and a 2mm stopper head gasket was installed done by Proven performance in CT. They should have known what they were doing. With crank pulley at 0 the cam gears appear to be off about half a tooth (to the right). Will this be ok?

Would you happen to have a camera and get us a photo of all you're doing?

 

[jdub]

the head was machined and a 2mm stopper head gasket was installed done by Proven performance in CT. They should have known what they were doing. With crank pulley at 0 the cam gears appear to be off about half a tooth (to the right). Will this be ok?

It could be the rubber in the crank damper is twisted. Do this:

- Remove the #1 plug and insert a small diameter wooden dowel about a foot long in the spark plug hole
- Rotate the crank to the zero index...pass it by a few inches.
- Note where the dowel peaks...that is true TDC for the piston
- If it peaks anywhere else besides the zero index, the crank damper is FUBAR and will need to be replaced

Depending on how much material was removed from the head/block vs what the stock HG thickness provides can have an effect too.

 

[Supramk389]

I'll get some pics up...I do believe that at 0 the #1 piston is at its peak. (just by looking in with a light) I got everything lined up as close as I could and the car idled great, but while driving I heard a ticking, sounded like valves. But the car drove fine.

 

[Supramk389]

Later today I will take a pic of the cam gears with belt on and correct tension while the crank pulley is at 0...as well as the cam possition sensor. Maybe that will help.

 

[jdub]

...I do believe that at 0 the #1 piston is at its peak. (just by looking in with a light)

You are not going to be able to tell just by looking down a tiny hole at the piston top. :3d_frown:

 

[Supramk389]

Figured...I'll try the dowel tonight, thanks!

 

[Supramk389]

I'm gonna go over my timing today to check for crank pulley top dead center...I hope it's close!!!

 

[Supramk389]

I checked if the piston is at TDC when the crank pulley is at zero..and it is. The cam gears line up with the notch marks pretty good as well (maybe not dead on)
a mm or 2 maybe 3. I've seen pictures of how the CPS should be lined up at TDC but every car seems to be a little different. How can i set my timing with a timing light if the rpm doesn't stay at 650 RPMs to time at 12 degrees like it says in the TSRM.

 

[jdub]

The CPS should look like this with the crank/cam index all lined up:

You can't accurately set timing unless the idle is correct and there can be no ECU codes present. Suggest you verify there are no vac leaks, the ISCV is working, and check for ECU codes.

BTW - the TSRM spec's 10 deg BTDC with the diagnostic block jumped...not 12 degs.

 

[Supramk389]

Got my timing straightened out...car runs good and strong but I think I have rod knock now...maybe time to build-up the internals or swap for a 2jz....Freakin sucks

 

[jdub]

What was wrong with timing? (it would help the next guy that has the same problem)

What makes you think you have rod knock?

 

[Supramk389]

Well I changed my CPS so I had to check the timing and I noticed that when my crank pulley was at TDC the cam gear notches weren't perfect...but it was close enough. I got some pics of what the cps looks like at TDC. So I got the car running and took if for a ride and it felt strong, only at around 2500 rpms I hear a knocking sound...much like a couple of the videos on the forum saying it's rod knock. I need to get a hold of a stethoscope so I can be sure. But it sounds like rod knock from what I've been reeding.