Ok, somehow our 1990 is still R12. It's not blowing cold.... unless your in the shade or it's not hot outside, then it'll blow OK. I was thinking of taking it into a a/c shop, and having it flushed, Ester Oil put in the compressor, a new drier, and then put it under a vacuum for 4hrs and then fill it with R134. Does that sound like a good plan? Or am I missing something?
taking '90 in for A/C work; couple Q's
- Thread starter Supra5MGTE
- Start date
if you can afford the r-12 stick to it. It might be that something is amiss (like expansion valve closed and not opening).
if it is low ask price to see how much a conversion will run. then ask how much to fill with r-12
if it is low ask price to see how much a conversion will run. then ask how much to fill with r-12
stick with r12. when i get my car running again ill be getting the AC system working with r12. if you are able to purchase it, its just easier.
We do conversions at my shop. Its $210 total, OTD.
R12 is $85 lb. R134a is $28 lb.
I have a tiny tiny leak that causes me to ad 4-5 oz each summer, once a year.
I converted mine 3 years ago. I live in the Mojave Desert where all summer it gets 90*-110*. The a/c works good.
I have the 2 little factory a/c fans, and a 14" electric (1100 cfm). (no water pump fan)
R12 works best(colder in stop & go traffic, or doing in and out errands).
R134a works just fine after you are in the car for 20 min.
It needs MORE air flow over the condensor to remove the heat.
I am considering upgrading my 14" fan to an 1800cfm one.(same 13 amp draw)
That should help alot for town traffic.
ALL a/c systems will leak eventually. The freon molecules are smaller than 02, and find a way out. The system is under pressure.
When a shop does it correctly, using the proper machine, the second thing they do (functional test first) is suck out the old freon, and measure how much came out. Maybe f you are only a 1/2 or 1 lb low, with no obvious leaks, you might want to put R12 back in to get the coldest a/c.
Here is a little something I did right after the conversion 3 years ago. It helps while sitting at long red lights.
I diconnected the hose right at the rear window washer motor,
(under the rt. front inner fender, and ran a new hose up in front of the a/c condensor. I then 'T' d in 4 adjustable yard misters (plant waterers) to spray water onto the a/c condensor when I turn the knob for the rear washers.
It lasts about a week, then I refill the washer bottle.
I can actully 'feel' the air coming out of the vents get colder. I also bought a mechanics pocket thermometer and placed it (cover and all)into the center dash vent so I can keep an eye on the air temp.
It also tells me how hot it is inside my car when I get in it.
Its been 160* many times in the summer when I have to lock and leave it. And thats why R134a is not as effecient. All the upholstery and interior of the car is so hot, that it takes a long time to get it cooled down.
If you are running errands around town, it may never get as comfortableas R12, until you get moving over 40mph.
OK...done.
R12 is $85 lb. R134a is $28 lb.
I have a tiny tiny leak that causes me to ad 4-5 oz each summer, once a year.
I converted mine 3 years ago. I live in the Mojave Desert where all summer it gets 90*-110*. The a/c works good.
I have the 2 little factory a/c fans, and a 14" electric (1100 cfm). (no water pump fan)
R12 works best(colder in stop & go traffic, or doing in and out errands).
R134a works just fine after you are in the car for 20 min.
It needs MORE air flow over the condensor to remove the heat.
I am considering upgrading my 14" fan to an 1800cfm one.(same 13 amp draw)
That should help alot for town traffic.
ALL a/c systems will leak eventually. The freon molecules are smaller than 02, and find a way out. The system is under pressure.
When a shop does it correctly, using the proper machine, the second thing they do (functional test first) is suck out the old freon, and measure how much came out. Maybe f you are only a 1/2 or 1 lb low, with no obvious leaks, you might want to put R12 back in to get the coldest a/c.
Here is a little something I did right after the conversion 3 years ago. It helps while sitting at long red lights.
I diconnected the hose right at the rear window washer motor,
(under the rt. front inner fender, and ran a new hose up in front of the a/c condensor. I then 'T' d in 4 adjustable yard misters (plant waterers) to spray water onto the a/c condensor when I turn the knob for the rear washers.
It lasts about a week, then I refill the washer bottle.
I can actully 'feel' the air coming out of the vents get colder. I also bought a mechanics pocket thermometer and placed it (cover and all)into the center dash vent so I can keep an eye on the air temp.
It also tells me how hot it is inside my car when I get in it.
Its been 160* many times in the summer when I have to lock and leave it. And thats why R134a is not as effecient. All the upholstery and interior of the car is so hot, that it takes a long time to get it cooled down.
If you are running errands around town, it may never get as comfortableas R12, until you get moving over 40mph.
OK...done.
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for $210 i would convert it. R12 might be hard to find. My toyota dealership gave me an estimate of 4 or 5 hundred dollars to convert the a/c. As of right now i have no a/c and i'm really considering taking the whole shit out for wieght reduction.
If you can drive comfortable where you live, taking all the components out (less the evaporator until you HAVE to get in there) would give you less weight, and more room. Some N/A owner said they mounted a blower where the compressor was.
well granted the R12 will work better, but isn't it cheaper and easier to get 134? My '94 4runner is 134 and it blows COLD, the minute you get in the truck.... tons of cold air. I converted my '84 supra to 134 a few years ago and we got that thing blowing ICE COLD. She has no a/c as of now... we gotta do somin.