Stupid CPS question

[SevenMKIII]

**Installed and timed CPS correctly**
Still have a boost leak, so I tested it again and it sounds like the air is coming out of my (cracked) CPS cover??? Is air even supposed to be on that side of the CPS? I didn't think it mattered because, well, many people's covers are broken. I'll be ordering a new cover, but the point is why is air coming through the CPS? Bad to RTV the CPS to the head?


This may sound really stupid, but is the CPS supposed to be flush against the motor? I had an idea I had a boost leak (just finished motor) because of rough idle and riiicchh so I built a boost leak tester and air is pouring out of the CPS hole. I'm thinging I may have missed an o-ring...:3d_frown:
(If anyone can get a straight down view on the CPS that may help also)

HELP! :1zhelp:

-Chris

 

[jetjock]

It should be flush. If it's leaking air oil won't be far behind. There's an O ring but I always cut a gasket for it too. No leaks in I dunno how long.

 

[GrimJack]

Yes, it should be flush.

 

[SevenMKIII]

What in the world is keeping it from laying flush then? When I was adjusting the timing when the motor was out everything was lined up correctly. I had to insert the CPS a few times to get it lined up correctly but it never slid in flush, just enough to grab the gear. It sort of idles fine, but after 10 seconds or so it runs super rich (due to boost leak). I'll mess with it tonight, can I just order the o-ring from Toyota or would a parts store carry the right size? Thanks for the responses! I want to drive my Supra

JJ - cut a gasket for the entire mating surface, not just the part inserted into the head, correct?

-Chris

 

[jetjock]

You're running it like that? Stop now and find out what's wrong before it chews something up. Take the valve cover off if you have to.

Gasket can be either. If not entire surface just be sure it's not too thick because you'll be loading the bracket when the bolt is tightened. I've done it both ways but these days always cut the gasket full surface. The usual gasket material found at the parts store will suffice. Hell, a cereal box will do the job. The O ring can be bought pretty much anywhere O rings are found but I'm guessing they're cheap enough from the dealer. I keep a full selection of both metric and AN O rings around. The kits aren't expensive and handy to have.

 

[Doward]

Further info for the OP - when you pressurize the intake tract, cap off the system before the throttle body.

Pressurizing the engine block is bad for the seals.

 

[SevenMKIII]

Much thanks to everyone. I was running it like that but not really as it was only on for 10 second intervals a few times. I guess that's still enough to eat up the gears. So all I have to do is remove the CPS, buy a seal (or kit if O'rilleys has one in stock) and figure out how to get it flush and make a gasket and I should be leak free? Sounds simple enough, I'll let ya know how it turns out.

-Chris

 

[SevenMKIII]

Update in first post.

-Chris

 

[theKnifeArtist]

take a picture of the non-flushness

 

[SevenMKIII]

The non-flushiness has been resolved. I updated my problem in the first post, now it sits fine (I'm just retarded) but air seems to be escaping through cracks in the cover. I have a new cover on the way but why is air going through it in the first place? Would it be bad to RTV it to the head? The seal I made kind of sucks..

-Chris

 

[3p141592654]

There is a seal in the CPS that goes after 15 years or so. Here's my post on how to fix it.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44846

But..... you should not have pressure in the crankcase if the PCV is working properly. Does this engine have cylinder leakage issues?

 

[SevenMKIII]

The rings haven't seated into the cylindars yet, I just finished a rebuild the motor has been ran for probably 30 seconds total. It sounds like it is leaking air through where it mounts, the main part that slips into the head (sorry I'm so term-illiterate). A little leak there is where the air seems to be escaping. I sure don't have time to rebuild my CPS right now, I need the car running ASAP. Thanks for the tips guys!

-Chris

 

[jetjock]

I'm confused. Why are you pressure testing the intake tract with it all connected to the engine? Why would you expect anything less than what you're seeing by doing it that way? And why are you doing it if the engine has only been run for 30 seconds?

 

[TurboStreetCar]

if the o-ring is on the cps, its sealed. RTV wont help.

are u sure its coming out around the CPS housing? did you block off the ports on top of the valve covers?

 

[SevenMKIII]

JJ- Tester was hooked up to the comp. inlet. The car will not idle properly, which makes me believe that is due to a vacuum leak. The idle is rough and it starts to run really rich after a short period of time (like the time it takes to pressurize the motor and for it to start leaking). I made a boost leak tester and hooked it up and air is escaping through *center* of the CPS, not the housing like I thought, for some reason. I have a catch can installed, so I don't know how the PCV would be effecting it. The valve covers are T'd together and run to one inlet and the other inlet connects to the port on the TB for vacuum. *I completely forgot about opening the throttle, but would that help?* I don't understand how air is even getting to the CPS. Anyone in central IL want to help get my car running??

-Chris

 

[jetjock]

You're going about it wrong. There are better ways to find vacuum leaks. Boost leaks maybe no but vacuum leaks yes. From what I see you're pumping air into the engine. It'll go past whatever valves are open, past the rings and up through the crankcase vent into the valve covers then out through the CPS shaft seal and anything else connected to the covers. Opening the throttle wold make things worse.

Did you not see Doward's post? If you're going to pressure test the induction system you should cap it off at the TB. Once it's found to be leak tight you need to use other methods for finding vacuum leaks. Propane, carb cleaner (a crappy method unless one uses the O2 sensor signal), or best, a smoke machine. Once you're sure there's no pirate air you can move on to troubleshooting the mixture problem (assuming it remains) using other methods.

 

[SevenMKIII]

You cleared the difference between boost and vacuum leak to me, I just wasn't fully comprehending it for some reason. Problem is 1) it's tough to keep the car idling long enough to do this and two 2) most of the time the rpms are fluctuating so it would be hard to tell when it is spiking because of propane

I'll give it a shot tomorrow when my batteery is charged. I'm retarded and left it connected and my doors are open all night because I've been wiring everything up in the interior still = drained new battery.

-Chris

 

[kapkaniMD]

quick question: will the timing or anything be messed up if I remove the CPS to replace the gasket and o-ring??? Also does anyone have the actual size of the o-ring needed???

 

[theKnifeArtist]

yeah you'll have to time it with a timing light if you take the cps off because it'll be moved

 

[kapkaniMD]

yeah you'll have to time it with a timing light if you take the cps off because it'll be moved

Is there any way around this, I currently dont have access to a timing light. Also does that mean the timing will have to be adjusted by removing all the belts and doing the whole TDC thing...