tried for a new number today with my 1000cc injectors last time we ran out of fuel with the 550's. This time i had a bad miss under load only around 15psi. Think it may be the ignighter will check it out today. Was hoping to see 600rwhp but no luck. Another problem i encounter is on the street the af is 10.8-11.1 but on the dyno it is sub 10s. Was thinking the dyno can't load it enough but not sure could be air temp anyone see this?
stinger dyno
- Thread starter quake
- Start date
was an air temp prob my af was all set for light throttle driving and the weather is crazy around here so i tuned it when it was cold and set the af's. Now it's like 70 and the car was running really rich. Need to set the air temp compensation to take care of this problem
quake;988558 said:
Mustang is alot better for tuning. Come with enough $ for a couple of hours and plan to spend it all. Be sure you are very familiar with what you are tuning and don't waste any time regapping plugs or silly crap like that on the dyno.
If you just want some glorious numbers, pull off the wastegate hose and hit a dynojet for 1 pull. Use 5th gear if you can (wheel speed under 200 mph) for super glory numbers.
Your air temps should trim based on post i/c numbers. Make sure there is strong enough airflow over the i/c on the dyno to keep your temps in check.
tell me about it. I did alot of tuning today car is running a wide band with data log so it's easy. I forgot i have done so much with tunes that i did not set the 10-15 range so thats why it was soo rich. Fixed it all today and the miss went with it. I will continue to tune this car on the street then go to the dyno for a glory #, thanks for the tips.chevyeater;988667 said:
quake;992303 said:
Why not more with a dyno jet? They are more than capable of running high numbers.
Congrats Quake!
Duane
upgradedsupra;992343 said:
His wastegate spring probably isn't strong enough.
quake- What turbo is this on?
upgradedsupra;992343 said:
well to be more specific his dyno can't load my car enough. For example my electronic boost controller boosts up to 36psi and on the dyno i could only go up to 24psi. To give a better example the last time out i was running 18psi on the street with an a/f of 10.8-10.9. I hit the dyno and the af is 10.0 flat and the boost is 14psi with the same settings.
quake;992365 said:
As I said, your wastegate spring isn't strong enough to make boost on a dynojet. .9 bar is only going to get you 1.8 bar max and less on a dynojet.
I have a 35R 7M in my shop right now with a .9 bar spring in the wastegate. It is the biggest thing holding the car back from making more power now that all of his problems are fixed.
chevyeater;993645 said:
initially i was going to get a stronger spring but i still don't like the fact that the af's are sooo rich on the dynojet. Granted i know the owner well and don't pay much but i would rather go to a diffrent dyno just to see the better numbers with the same spring. I had to make a new tune just for the dynojet as the af's were sub 10's on it. Another problem is it gets pretty cold here half the year and the car was seeing 19psi on cold nights with the boost controll off :3d_frown: not where i want to be on pump fuel. So i was going to go with a lighter spring and use the controller all year to regulate pressure to 18 psi pump. If you know of a better way by all means let me know
I normally pull ~4% fuel out when I put a street tuned car on a dynojet (just to make numbers as there is no other reason to really be on a dynojet). A Mustang dyno opened locally recently that has a fully enclosed, climate controlled dyno room, full instrumentation, excellent airflow and user selectable load settings. Tuning heaven but the numbers are a letdown in comparison.
Boost control is really what separates the men from the boys, when used in the classic method of a spring and a normal controller. You either need a stiff spring that is too much for pump gas so you can max the turbo out or a pump gas spring that is going to leave a decent ammount of power on the table. Recently, some have been experimenting with CO2 to hold the wastegate closed past where it would open with a weaker spring. Seems to show promise but, adds complexity and $.
Tial 44s suck for low boost BTW. Very variable based on spring temperature. They also don't have the preload screw some other wastegates have that allows for "cranking up" the spring rate when you want to run more than normal boost. You have to change the spring or add a second one. Not that I dislike Tial. I did go with an even smaller F40 Tial on my 7M, because it will hold more boost than any other gate I know of with the 2 stiffest springs they make jammed in there and the wastegate hose pulled. My car doesn't even turn on with less than 120 MON in the tank though...
On my 2JZ SC300, I found the best dyno for numbers to be the dyno dynamics. I was stuck with the Toyota wastegate spring (stock twins) and could get 23 psi on the street but barely 20 on a dynojet and Mustang it made the boost but shows lower numbers. The local DD was the best compromise for that scenario as it has load but makes numbers close to a dynojet. It made 390 hp on a jet and 447 on dynamics in very similar trim.
Also note that if you put different gas in just for the dyno, that will also affect the A:F based on specific gravity and evaporation rate of the fuel. ECUs can't compensate for this in open loop mode.
Boost control is really what separates the men from the boys, when used in the classic method of a spring and a normal controller. You either need a stiff spring that is too much for pump gas so you can max the turbo out or a pump gas spring that is going to leave a decent ammount of power on the table. Recently, some have been experimenting with CO2 to hold the wastegate closed past where it would open with a weaker spring. Seems to show promise but, adds complexity and $.
Tial 44s suck for low boost BTW. Very variable based on spring temperature. They also don't have the preload screw some other wastegates have that allows for "cranking up" the spring rate when you want to run more than normal boost. You have to change the spring or add a second one. Not that I dislike Tial. I did go with an even smaller F40 Tial on my 7M, because it will hold more boost than any other gate I know of with the 2 stiffest springs they make jammed in there and the wastegate hose pulled. My car doesn't even turn on with less than 120 MON in the tank though...
On my 2JZ SC300, I found the best dyno for numbers to be the dyno dynamics. I was stuck with the Toyota wastegate spring (stock twins) and could get 23 psi on the street but barely 20 on a dynojet and Mustang it made the boost but shows lower numbers. The local DD was the best compromise for that scenario as it has load but makes numbers close to a dynojet. It made 390 hp on a jet and 447 on dynamics in very similar trim.
Also note that if you put different gas in just for the dyno, that will also affect the A:F based on specific gravity and evaporation rate of the fuel. ECUs can't compensate for this in open loop mode.