still not starting hot

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
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Corvallis OR
Ok, before I get ragged for not searching, I want to say that I have read at least 20 threads on heat soak and/or hot start problems on here and SF. The majority of those threads point to CPS, coilpacks, and FPU VSV.

Ive tested, replaced and/or rewired all those parts. In addition I have swapped ISC, FPR, plugs, plug wires, fuel pump relay, main relay, EFI fuse and checked and/or replaced all the vacuum lines. Im quite certain I have spark signal at least, using a timing light to check for signal, and pulling #1 plug grounding it and checking for actual spark at the plug.



I still cannot get the car to start hot. When the car has been run for 10-15 minutes, if I shut it off and immeciately try to restart it it will restart ok, with a slightly rough idle for a second or two then clear up. If I shut the car off for 2-3 minutes, then try it will stumble and die, then crank with no hope of starting. Unlike some other people with hot start problems, mine takes hours and sometimes even overnight to get cool enough to then start properly. Last night while under a no start condition, I pulled the FPR off and other than a little spray, mostly air came out. Looking inside the fuel rail it looked empty. So Im lead to believe that my fuel is vapor locking, and only when the rail reaches a temp where the vapor either re-condenses, or the pressure is relieved in some other way will the system send fuel to the rail. (Im trying to logic this out, I dont know any of this for fact, more of an observation)

So I was thinking about replacing the Fuel pump and filter. I have a spare tank with a known good pump. But I really dont hold out an hope that it will actually fix the proplem as the heat issue is obviously under the hood not in the tank. Im going to get a fuel pressure gauge today and see if that will lead me to any more information.

Im hoping some fuel system expert here can give me some more information on the fuel system components and how they work, and point me in a direction that might solve the vapor lock issue. Also if anyone knows of any fuel system mods that might help, Im willing to give them a try. Moddified vent system? vented cap? Those sorts of things.

This problem is really starting to frustrate me, and I want to get moving onto fun and performance mods rather than just trying to get a running car.
 

spipedong

Level 2 Rythym Rogue
Apr 2, 2005
404
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0
41
Eugene, OR
There are terminals under the diag block; I'd check the TSRM first, to verify, but I believe you jump +B to Fp with the key in the run position. This should start the fuel pump without you cranking the engine. Let it run for a few seconds then try cranking it. If your rail really is empty, this should fill it up. Also check the +12V fuel pump mod for bypassing the drop resistor as well. No positive on the supra but most cars run the fuel pump at a full 12V for cold starts and less than that for normal use. If your drop resistor is getting flaky that could be a problem as well.
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
2,716
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Corvallis OR
OK...finally some good news from me. I think I may have fixed it. I swapped the fuel tank out today. The one that was in there had been punched in a little (like maybe someone backed over something) and in doing so took out the pump to look at it. It was not entirely seated in its bracket, and the bracket was slightly bent, as was the fuel return hose. The connections looked ok, and the pump itself didnt "look" damaged. But I swapped it with a known good one anyway. In the process I blew out the fuel lines (using my new air compressor) front to back, and back to front. When I first tried to blow back from the return line at the FPR, it seemed like it was a bit obstructed. I pulled the soft line off a little lower and blew both directions and that seemed to clear it. I didnt see anything come out, but I just had a gut feeling that I just solved my issues.

For the first time since I bought the car, it has now restarted under a full hot condition, at least twice. Im still a little leary of it right now, but Im also hopeful.

In the past week I have fixed a huge variety of problems and corrected who knows which previous owners "bad wrenching" (no Joe, this is not directed at you). Im getting very familiar with the car now, and Lucy and I seem to have reached an understanding. She must now sense that she is in good hands. I think she just might be warming up to me. Its gonna be a while before I trust her, but Im hopeful!
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
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Valley of the Sun
Good for you Peter (keeping fingers crossed)

If it helps, it took me almost a year to un-do all the various "engineering" jobs the previous owner did to my Supra.
 

mrnickleye

Love My Daily Driver !
Jun 8, 2005
825
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Mojave Desert, Ca
^^(up there)
"Im getting very familiar with the car now, and Lucy and I seem to have reached an understanding. She must now sense that she is in good hands. I think she just might be warming up to me. Its gonna be a while before I trust her, but Im hopeful!"

Hey Ricky, Lucy wants you home !!!:biglaugh:
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
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Corvallis OR
Oh yeah, and I shimmed the gate :biglaugh:


just enough to get over what the big ass FMIC took away, +1 or 2 lbs.

now, I just need to figure out my compressor surge.
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
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Corvallis OR
spipedong said:
SEARCH NOOB!

























:icon_razz


LOL!
I know what causes compressor surge, Im just not sure how to fix it. The car came with a Blitz SSBOV mounted just past the IC. Ive adjusted the spring as soft as it will go...took care of high boost surge, but still have low boost surge, basically anything under 2lbs. If I could find a cheap stocker Im thinking off putting it back in at the stock location. But I dunno...Gonna wait until my new used turbo arrives and deal with it then.

Ohh yeah and no hot start issues again tonight after a good long run with a couple of hard pulls. I think I have licked it
 

pimptrizkit

thread killer
Dec 22, 2005
1,572
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vancouver Wa
my bov wasn't working when i had the vac lin off the ps pump off, i reconnected it to the manifold and it blows over even whilke in vac, i hear the air shush out.. pretty cool
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
2,716
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Corvallis OR
pimptrizkit said:
my bov wasn't working when i had the vac lin off the ps pump off, i reconnected it to the manifold and it blows over even whilke in vac, i hear the air shush out.. pretty cool

Im about 95 percent sure all the vac lines are fine. there may be some hidden ones I didnt see, but I pulled everything I could see, vac pump tested em, clipped the ends and reinstalled.

The one thing I still want to replace is the heater vsv, it doesnt seem to be working. Im not sure but if that diaphram is bad it could be giving me a vac leak.