Stick with the 7mgte or swap for 1jz?

Doat

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IJ.;1840873 said:
Well it must be true then go for the 1J.... :nono:
I am just asking and letting y'all know what I found, this is all brainstorming anyway since getting my head gasket replaced at the shop I know would cost so much.
 

Another MkIII

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Doat;1840879 said:
I am just asking and letting y'all know what I found, this is all brainstorming anyway since getting my head gasket replaced at the shop I know would cost so much.
Then replace it yourself?
-AM3
 

Doat

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Another MkIII;1840880 said:
Then replace it yourself?
-AM3

I would do it myself but I don't have the knowledge to do something like that even though from what I have read up in the TSRM it doesn't seem like something out of my ability.
 

Another MkIII

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Doat;1840882 said:
I would do it myself but I don't have the knowledge to do something like that even though from what I have read up in the TSRM it doesn't seem like something out of my ability.
Its more about patience than knowledge. If you replace your headgasket and do it yourself, you can probably do it for under $500 as many have pointed out. Again, it comes down you your goals and preferences, so I won't tell you one way or the other, there are a lot of resources here regardless of what you choose. My opinion, I would stick with the 7M. It can be a pwerful and reliable motor, and while the 7M is by no means cheap, it is much cheaper to replace a headgasket than to do a JZ swap.
-AM3
 

MNBmk3T

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I just did the swap from 7M to 1JZ and I am not regretting it at all. I love my 1JZ, it sounds amazing and responds like the 7M could only dream of. I went with a full standalone and you should probably do that too.

The difference between the 2 engines is that the 7M has much more torque to pull itself out of the low-end of revs, meanwhile the 1JZ absolutely sings and comes alive over 4K RPM.
 

Doat

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Another MkIII;1840889 said:
Its more about patience than knowledge. If you replace your headgasket and do it yourself, you can probably do it for under $500 as many have pointed out. Again, it comes down you your goals and preferences, so I won't tell you one way or the other, there are a lot of resources here regardless of what you choose. My opinion, I would stick with the 7M. It can be a pwerful and reliable motor, and while the 7M is by no means cheap, it is much cheaper to replace a headgasket than to do a JZ swap.
-AM3

Yea I am thinking about sticking with the 7M for now since I know it is well maintained and only has 81,000 miles on it, so it would be like wasting a perfectly good engine. I do have the time and patience to do it and I am starting to lean toward doing myself and saving a lot of money and also I really look forward to working on this car but at the same time I don't want to damage anything. My only big worry about doing it myself is the timing belt and making sure it is timed correctly and such but I remember someone telling me as long as the cams are at TDC and I mark the position of the cam gears and the placement on the belt I should be fine, is that correct?

Would you guys recommend I get an OEM gasket and torque the ARP studs to ARP specs?
 

Doat

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That is a huge relief lol, what about my question on the timing, if I mark everything and realign it I should fine right even if I replace the belt?
 

Another MkIII

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Doat;1840896 said:
That is a huge relief lol, what about my question on the timing, if I mark everything and realign it I should fine right even if I replace the belt?
There are already marks, lol, so all you have to do is replace the belt per the TSRM.
-AM3
 

Doat

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Another MkIII;1840899 said:
There are already marks, lol, so all you have to do is replace the belt per the TSRM.
-AM3

Thank you all so much I feel much more confident now lol, just need to get the belts, ARP studs, and the gasket then I'll get to work. Is there anything else I should know or any tips or advice?
 

Turbo Habanero

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Yeah its pretty darn impossible to mix anything up when it comes to taking the cams out. Everything is marked including the barings and cams have the notch on them so you can put the gears back on correctly and then you just lign them back up to tdc along with the crank shaft and slide the belt back on.
 

Doat

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Sweet, thanks again for all the help I really appreciate it. I was making this out to be more difficult than it is I guess lol.

Should I get an OEM gasket from Toyota or from somewhere else?
 
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phatbimmer

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www.funpedia.org
Doat;1840913 said:
Sweet, thanks again for all the help I really appreciate it. I was making this out to be more difficult than it is I guess lol.

Should I get an OEM gasket from Toyota or from somewhere else?

Toyota, Fel-Pro or Victor-Reinz. I think all of them should be good HG along with the ARP's. Have fun
 

Turbo Habanero

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Doat;1840913 said:
Sweet, thanks again for all the help I really appreciate it. I was making this out to be more difficult than it is I guess lol.

Should I get an OEM gasket from Toyota or from somewhere else?
you can get it from driftmotion.com for cheap
 

Doat

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Turbo Habanero;1840918 said:
you can get it from driftmotion.com for cheap
Wow even the timing belts are cheap but the factory head gasket is $95 lol, I'll talk to my buddy who works at Toyota and see if he can hook me up. Just to be 100% sure I need the ARP head stud kit right for the 7m?
 

Doat

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Yea a friend of mine told me about that earlier that I would have to rebuild the JZ anyway, so yea lol I am sticking with the 7M for awhile but I don't mind it isn't a bad motor just pretty bad on gas lol. Thanks for the DIY info.

Now I am worried about the rod knock lol since I am almost sure coolant has gotten into the motor.