starting problems: power drain? [Solved: Clutch saftey switch]

MA70Snowman

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Oct 17, 2006
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Okay, installed my walboro 255 pump. went to start the car, in the on position I can hear the pump initialize. all lights come on.. headlights work. stereo etc. soon as I try and start the car the dash lights dim (clock etc) and nothing happens, headlights don't dim just the dash lights. Any ideas? I know its something simple but I really don't have the time to troubleshoot this out, need it running by tonight. Thanks guys for any help.
 
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alloyguitar

it's legal, i swear...
Mar 30, 2005
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well, it's not the ground on the battery being loose, or anything of that nature, because then everything would just shut off...

Was anything else changed/replaced during the installation?

Sounds like it has nothing to do with the fuel pump.

Any clicks/sounds whenever you try to turn the car over?
 

MA70Snowman

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Oct 17, 2006
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when turned to the on position there's the usual relay clicks, pump initialization, but when I turn to start.. nothing.. dims and thats it.

(btw. I did check battery for good charge)
 

88YotaTurbo

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Feb 26, 2006
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I would say that it is not related to the fuel pump. I would say battery/charging system related.
Check you battery terminals and posts for corrosion. Willing to bet if your battery is fully charged it will be either of those things. Also load test your battery. How old is your battery?
 

Aspec

Supra uber alles
Dec 22, 2005
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MA70Snowman;1024938 said:
when turned to the on position there's the usual relay clicks, pump initialization, but when I turn to start.. nothing.. dims and thats it.

(btw. I did check battery for good charge)


Unless you direct wired the pump our cars do not start the fuel pump just because the key is on, so you should not hear the pump running.

How exactly did you test your battery for a good charge? Got an old VAT-40 laying around? If all you did was put a volt meter to it and saw more than 12 volts you did not test the battery. A battery can have a surface charge but not hold a load. Battery has to be load tested with proper equipment.

My bet is on dead battery.


_
 

CyFi6

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Oct 11, 2007
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The dash lights turn off automatically when the key is in the start position, so the starter is allowed full battery power during cranking. Pull out your passenger side kick panel and test the relay. Use a dvom on the switch circuit leads and use a 9v battery or you car battery with leads to power the control pins, then see if there is continuity. Also make sure your signal wire for the starter is on there good and clean. If still doesnt work, put your volt meter in the signal wire and ground the other side, you should see 12v while foot is on the clutch and cranking(key in start position) If you see power there you know that side of the circuit is for the most part working.
 

MA70Snowman

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Oct 17, 2006
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okay like i said something simple.... here goes the DEE DE DEE award

I had bypassed the Clutch saftey switch w/ a wire jumper.. the jumper had come out.. plugged the switch in.. and she started purring at me.
 

MA70Snowman

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Oct 17, 2006
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Aspec;1024948 said:
Unless you direct wired the pump our cars do not start the fuel pump just because the key is on, so you should not hear the pump running.


_

btw, like i said the pump "initialized". it does that when you turn to on position as to have pressure to the fuel pump when the car does start. I am well aware that the pump doesn't "run" in the on position, unless you jumper FP and B+ IIRC
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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And you're both right. The fuel pump does not run until the key is moved to the start position. When the key is released the pump remains on only if the ECU is receiving CPS signals (GTE) or if air is flowing through the AFM (GE).

There is no "priming" done before engine start. Anyone who thinks otherwise is either confused, no longer has the stock system, or has goofy wiring.
 

88YotaTurbo

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I remember you (jetjock) telling me about that when I asked you something about the fuel system long ago. Thank you for all your knowledge.
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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You be welcome and thank you for remembering/learning. People like you are the sole reason I'm here. That and to keep IJ in line ;)

I vaguely recall discussing this with the OP in an old thread. Iirc it turned out something was weird about his car. Or maybe he's hearing the ABS actuator. There's a relay that cycles in that when the key comes on.

Why Toyota didn't program the computer to perform a prime is curious since many other EFI systems do it. That said I've tried bringing fuel pressure up using the diag jumper under various pre-start conditions and it never made a difference in how my car started. I'm betting it's because the pump runs at high speed during cranking... only after start does it switch to low.
 

MA70Snowman

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Oct 17, 2006
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San Diego
jetjock;1025307 said:
You be welcome and thank you for remembering/learning. People like you are the sole reason I'm here. That and to keep IJ in line ;)

I vaguely recall discussing this with the OP in an old thread. Iirc it turned out something was weird about his car. Or maybe he's hearing the ABS actuator. There's a relay that cycles in that when the key comes on.

Why Toyota didn't program the computer to perform a prime is curious since many other EFI systems do it. That said I've tried bringing fuel pressure up using the diag jumper under various pre-start conditions and it never made a difference in how my car started. I'm betting it's because the pump runs at high speed during cranking... only after start does it switch to low.

Actually JJ I do recall that discussion. thats why I remembered that you jumper the FP and the B+ in the Diag block. But I've always been fairly certain that the pump "primed" (I believe that was the term we were all looking for) in the on position, but I have learned not to 2nd guess on matters you have already disclosed. Go figure learn something new. (its what I like doing)