Speaker Interference Paint Pic Included

killarb634

New Member
Apr 1, 2005
163
0
0
41
Jersey's here
Ok so i wired up my whole system and can't figure out where i'm getting the interference from.

Front Components are Infinity References going to Crossover then to Rockford Punch amp

Rear Speakers are Polk Audio going to another Rockford Punch

Subs are Kickers going to hifonics amp

Rca's are run on left of car power on right. Power wire going into distrubition block and then to amps. Amps are grounded to bolts on the body.

Thanks in advance
 

Attachments

  • System Layout.jpg
    System Layout.jpg
    48.4 KB · Views: 66

steveyblack

Member
Jun 21, 2007
529
0
16
33
Nj
yah any interfernce should be from rca's...oh and dont have your ground more than a foot or so, and make sure its a nice thick guage...
 

Justin

Speakers?
Mar 31, 2005
1,699
0
0
40
Spokane, Wa
AaronsSupraMKIII said:
Buy a ground loop isolater, plug it into your RCA's....Problem solved.

Problem not solved, problem covered up with a bandaid.

Is the noise coming through your sub as well?

When you turn your engine on, and turn the volume all the way down on your headunit and rev the engine, does the noise get louder?


What kind of headunit?
 

killarb634

New Member
Apr 1, 2005
163
0
0
41
Jersey's here
ok,

Ground wire is 10 gauge
WHen i rev the engine i do not hear it, I do not believe it is alternator whine. The engine covers the sound.
It went away this morning but came back this afternoon.
The sound is coming through the sub as well.

Could it be caused by the rca's passing by the power wire going to the dist block. THe main power wire is 1 gauge to the dist block and 10 gauge from the block to the amps.


Can i use another "grounding block" and run all grounds into the "grounding block"?


Thanks
 

Cravin Boost

MMMM Smells like coolant
Nov 8, 2005
170
0
0
Eugene OR
you could try disconnecting the RCAs from the Deck and see if the noise gos away (if it does then you can concentrate first on making sure the all the deck connections are good. logic says that if its in every speaker set then its likely going to be in something common to all components. Deck is a good place to start. and always make sure you don't run speaker wire in parallel with your power or ground. from the pic you drew looks like they cross allot altho its hard to tell.
 

killarb634

New Member
Apr 1, 2005
163
0
0
41
Jersey's here
They cross by the amps where i had to run the power wire to the amp and and the rca's to the amp. When i disconnect the rca's from the amp they go away but havne't disconnected from the deck yet will do tomorrow.

Thanks
 

lppro

LP Performance & off road
Apr 21, 2007
895
0
0
34
Sugar Hill, Georgia, United States
10 awg= too small the ground is just as important as the positive.you should have atleast 4 awg. for both the + and -, and try and groung everything to one spot to avoid a ground loop. also dont use cheep rca wire.
 

killarb634

New Member
Apr 1, 2005
163
0
0
41
Jersey's here
should i run 4 gauge from each amp, or could i run another dist block for the grounding and run the 10 gauge into that.

When removing rca's from deck i still have int, this means that it is either ground loop or rca interference correct

Thanks
Brian
 

lppro

LP Performance & off road
Apr 21, 2007
895
0
0
34
Sugar Hill, Georgia, United States
no 10 gauge this is wayyy to small. you can do 4 guage to the dist block and at the least 8guage to the amps. and ground everything in one place. and if that dosent fix it, take the rcas out and examen them for frays, cuts or any exposed wire.
 

Turbo. Targa. Life.

SupraMania Shirt Slinger!
Apr 16, 2005
1,709
0
0
36
O'Fallon, MO
www.geocities.com
Which means this is a power issue I'd say run something bigger than that puny ass 10awg to your amps, and run a good ground. Also, check your battery connections, and your d-block connections. Check back when you've done so.
 
Agreed, 10awg is too small... I would run short 8awg from a block to the amps and then a short 4awg or a 0awg to a good gold tab ground.
If you must cross different types of wires like RCA and power, they should cross at right angles. Also be careful that RCA are good quality shielded or twisted pair type. Last, also be careful that you avoid the internal car wiring as they too carry noise and are NOT shielded.
 

Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
1,836
0
0
Alberta
www.gyoba.com
First off, the size wire needed is relative to the amount of power required. Even 4AWG can be wat too small for a run the the hatch of a Supra for large loads.

Assuming that you aren't drawing more than 100A, you SHOULD be able to get away with 4AWG, though I might recommend 2 AWG for that kind of load, or even 1/0. 60-80A is a good place for 4AWG, and less than 60A, 8AWG should be okay. (Though my preference would be to use 4AWG or better for anything over a 40A draw.

Note that this is power draw, not amplifier wattage. Class A amplifiers draw a lot more current for output power, and class D amps draw a lot less. Since most amps are class A/B, 50A draw is usually about 180W in actual power. (I'd rather not get into RMS vs Max vs PMPO. I refer to what's usually referred to as RMS power)

First off, there's a fairly easy way to check your power cables for noise. Use a set of PC speakers and a 10uF capacitor. Connect the 10uF capacitor to the power line, and connect the other end of it to the tip of the PC speaker plug. Ground the shoulder of the plug. Turn on the PC speakers and start the car. If the lines are noisy, the speakers will play the noise. The capacitor will filter out the DC, leaving only audible noise going to the PC speakers amplifier. I've managed to locate and fix a few noise problems with this method.

For the signal cables, the first step is to disconnect the head unit. If that doesn't eliminate the problem, then disconnect the signal cables from the amplifier. If the power is clean, and you're still getting noise from the speakers with the signal cables disconnected from the amplifier, then your amplifier has got an internal fault.