Hows the charging system? Whats the voltage at FP rely and FP? Are all Grounds connected... especially the one under the Intake Manni. Hows the Cold start injector? I would also redo the boost leak test and test the AFM too via TSRM specs.
Spark plug change-Won't stay started
- Thread starter huntin5L
- Start date
I would like to think that, however I redid all connections 3 times. I only removed the plugs, wires, coil pack and reconnected everything. Hopefully tonight I can test these other things out, first off a boost leak test.
I will check the grounds, any diagram to figure out where they are all at? The cold start was pulled and cleaned less than a year ago and seems to be functioning properly. What is the FP relay?
I will check the grounds, any diagram to figure out where they are all at? The cold start was pulled and cleaned less than a year ago and seems to be functioning properly. What is the FP relay?
Well....Back, Tested the car and no boost leaks. I tested the tps without the throttle opened and that seemed to be within spec. Not sure where to begin checking next. Here is a video of it running, not a very good vid, but you can see the timing light all over the place that I put on it. Idling and bouncing right at 500 rpm, lights dimming like it wants to die. Let me know, Thanks Bob
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5dQzjUqsnE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5dQzjUqsnE
MKIIISupraGuy;1471191 said:
It has nothing to do with the timing, I have set the timing, but like I say it is missing so badly the timing mark is jumping in two different spots, which leads me to believe it has to be some kind of electrical problem. The plug wires checked out fine per tsrm also. I don't know what to look for next.
you said you pulled the wires, at the coil packs I assume, one at a time and you saw spark. But did you listen to the engine each time you pulled each wire and listen to see if the engine "stumbled" or missed even more with each wire pull? If not check one more time and listen closely. I had spark where the plugs plugged into the coil packs but it took me two times doing this to reaize that one of my injector leads broke. Also try wiggling all harness wiring, especially around the CPS.
I'm sorry, I'm still a little newb on things, but I've just gotta ask this question, and I'm kinda stunned no one has asked this yet....
Did you say when you installed the new plugs, you DIDN'T GAP THEM?
Is this because they came factory to the right gap size for the Supra (which I highly doubt, since you already mentioned they said they wouldn't work with it anyway...), or should it even matter (highly doubt this as well)? Everything I've ever read about engines has been to gap the plugs to whatever the spec is for that motor BEFORE plugging them in. And I've seen others forget to do theirs and have all sorts of issues like backfiring, poor timing, low spark, etc... I know you said you swapped to the originals and it didn't improve anything, did you also swap to the old WIRES as well? Or did you not need new wires?
Did you say when you installed the new plugs, you DIDN'T GAP THEM?
Is this because they came factory to the right gap size for the Supra (which I highly doubt, since you already mentioned they said they wouldn't work with it anyway...), or should it even matter (highly doubt this as well)? Everything I've ever read about engines has been to gap the plugs to whatever the spec is for that motor BEFORE plugging them in. And I've seen others forget to do theirs and have all sorts of issues like backfiring, poor timing, low spark, etc... I know you said you swapped to the originals and it didn't improve anything, did you also swap to the old WIRES as well? Or did you not need new wires?
That's why I said swpa to the old plugs 
Iridiums aren't supposed to be gapped (manufacterer says this as you risk damaging the center electrode) but they really need to be gapped...
Iridiums aren't supposed to be gapped (manufacterer says this as you risk damaging the center electrode) but they really need to be gapped...
Poodles;1471758 said:That's why I said swpa to the old plugs
Iridiums aren't supposed to be gapped (manufacterer says this as you risk damaging the center electrode) but they really need to be gapped...
I personally have not found any issue running the stock .032 gap on these exact plugs for 45k miles now. Proof that they "really need to be gapped" Poo?
They need to be checked...you just have to be careful. I've found the gap way off on NGK iridiums out of the box. Stock gap is fine for stock boost.
jdub;1471781 said:
I was too nervous to gap them
I left them alone and decided to swap back in the NGK coppers. It didn't change anything, still ran like garbage. Jdub, as far as pulling the plugs from the coil packs when it was running, yes I did this and all had good spark. I was listening for change when I did this for each plug, some seemed to be more noticeable then others when doing so. However, I should try this again just to see.
It's not good for the coil or wires...it creates an arc between the connection. The TSRM says to attach a plug to the wire and ground it:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=11
(step 9)
Huntin - have you checked to see if the battery is fully charged and you are getting the correct alternator output?
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CH&P=4
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=11
(step 9)
Huntin - have you checked to see if the battery is fully charged and you are getting the correct alternator output?
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CH&P=4
I too am having an issue with timing I do believe and still have my code 51 present, lol. Once I get the TPS adjusted, how do I set the timing correctly even though it won't stay running? Advance it enough to get it to run and then retard it back to the 10* BTDC?
The odd thing about this is the car supposedly ran great and the process of changing the plugs made it start running like garbage...As I said in my previous post I would make sure you retrace your steps and make sure you have triple checked that you put everything back together correctly.
Since you have been playing with your timing light what are you timing numbers? What is it varying between at idle? What is idle RPM? Are you jumping Te1 and E1 ( I think those are the correct terminals in the DIAG block but double check the TSRM). Have you tried revving the motor slightly or holding it a higher rpm? Does this change how it runs?
Thats what I would do. I think it would have to be something very simple if the car ran find before. Also gapping the iridiums is very easy to do, just do not put the feeler gauge between the ground strap and center electrode while bending the ground strap and just check the gap after bending. I would recommend getting a plug gapping tool to do this as it is really easy to do Iridiums with the proper tool (less than 5$ for the tool)
Also have you checked that your CEL turns on with the key in the on position? I just want to have you be positively sure you have no codes.
Good luck
Since you have been playing with your timing light what are you timing numbers? What is it varying between at idle? What is idle RPM? Are you jumping Te1 and E1 ( I think those are the correct terminals in the DIAG block but double check the TSRM). Have you tried revving the motor slightly or holding it a higher rpm? Does this change how it runs?
Thats what I would do. I think it would have to be something very simple if the car ran find before. Also gapping the iridiums is very easy to do, just do not put the feeler gauge between the ground strap and center electrode while bending the ground strap and just check the gap after bending. I would recommend getting a plug gapping tool to do this as it is really easy to do Iridiums with the proper tool (less than 5$ for the tool)
Also have you checked that your CEL turns on with the key in the on position? I just want to have you be positively sure you have no codes.
Good luck
primercrx;1472016 said:
If the CPS was installed correctly it should run with the CPS in its current position. You will want to run it until it gets to operating temperature, then jumper Te1 and E1 in the DIAG block. Make sure your idle RPM is ~650 RPM. Then attach the timing light and adjust to 10*BTDC. Then undo Te1 and E1 and make sure the timing advances to at least ~12* BTDC (Check the TSRM for exact spec, there is a range it should be in)
EDIT - I checked the spec for you, it should be more than 12* after you remove the DIAG jumper wire for the GTE motor. For a GE it is 9-10*.