Some questions

[dmp316]

I am not sure which direction to go. But here goes. I am looking to make 350-380 whp not right away but eventually. I am running a 7M so yes i know to get a new HG.

which MHG should i get 1.2mm or 2.0mm? With that upgrade down will i be spending more money making more power from the 7m or should i just 1JZ swap?

thanks for your help

 

[mirage83]

As far as which HG you need to go with, it depends on how much material your machinist takes off when he/she works the head and block for you. You can't just go with a standard HG replacement routine. When you're talking about using a metal HG, those surfaces need to be REALLY smooth and even. Whoever you have do the work for you will be able to tell you what headgasket size you'll need to go with.

With regards to power vs. money, someone with more experience with the 1JZ will have to chime in about that.

 

[dmp316]

As far as which HG you need to go with, it depends on how much material your machinist takes off when he/she works the head and block for you. You can't just go with a standard HG replacement routine. When you're talking about using a metal HG, those surfaces need to be REALLY smooth and even. Whoever you have do the work for you will be able to tell you what headgasket size you'll need to go with.

With regards to power vs. money, someone with more experience with the 1JZ will have to chime in about that.

thanks for the help.

My car still has the oem gasket that has not gone bad. I just wanted to do this upgrade from now for later down the road.

 

[GrimJack]

To replace the head gasket, you'll need to pull the engine, and have the block / timing plate cover and the head resurfaced. The OEM gasket that you have in there now will have mashed into the surface of both, and a MHG needs a much finer surface to seal.

When you get this done, make sure the machinist keeps track of how much material they remove. Add this to the stock head gasket thickness, and buy the closest you can get to the new thickness.

The 1J vs 7M debate has been done to death, many times over, but I'll give you a quick rehash.

If you are on a limited budget, you can build a better 7M by virtue of already having a base to start from, the 7M that came in your car. A good rebuild will cost about the same as a 1J swap, only with the 7M you will have, in effect, a new motor. You have to be more careful with oil and temperature on the 7M - run it low on oil, and it will pop. Run it hot, and it will pop. With that said, most of the dead 7Ms around can be directly attributed to the guy driving them.

 

[dmp316]

To replace the head gasket, you'll need to pull the engine, and have the block / timing plate cover and the head resurfaced. The OEM gasket that you have in there now will have mashed into the surface of both, and a MHG needs a much finer surface to seal.

When you get this done, make sure the machinist keeps track of how much material they remove. Add this to the stock head gasket thickness, and buy the closest you can get to the new thickness.

The 1J vs 7M debate has been done to death, many times over, but I'll give you a quick rehash.

If you are on a limited budget, you can build a better 7M by virtue of already having a base to start from, the 7M that came in your car. A good rebuild will cost about the same as a 1J swap, only with the 7M you will have, in effect, a new motor. You have to be more careful with oil and temperature on the 7M - run it low on oil, and it will pop. Run it hot, and it will pop. With that said, most of the dead 7Ms around can be directly attributed to the guy driving them.

?
thanks for you help. I am seeing 1jz going for 1100. So if i am going to make 350 + what would be the best thing for the oil and temp?

 

[GrimJack]

For the oil and temp, it's just a matter of preventative maintenance, and being paranoid.

Check the oil every time you fill up. And run it an extra liter over. There's plenty of room in the pan for an extra liter. Run good oil - I use Castrol Synthetic 0w30, but there are plenty of good ones out there - and change the filter every 5000 miles.

Same kind of deal with the temperature. Make sure there isn't junk between your AC condenser and your radiator. Make sure you have a fan shroud, and verify that your fan and fan clutch are in good shape. Replace the rubber coolant hoses - especially the smaller 90 degree ones below the cam position sensor and at the rear exhaust side of the block. And if you drive the pre-89, the rubber plug near the rear 90 degree hose should also be replaced. Replace your radiator cap, and the lines to your overflow tank, including the pickup line in the tank itself. Buy an aftermarket temp gauge - with a warning light!

There's nothing complicated or revolutionary here. It's all 'common sense' - but that seems to be remarkably uncommon.

 

[dmp316]

For the oil and temp, it's just a matter of preventative maintenance, and being paranoid.

Check the oil every time you fill up. And run it an extra liter over. There's plenty of room in the pan for an extra liter. Run good oil - I use Castrol Synthetic 0w30, but there are plenty of good ones out there - and change the filter every 5000 miles.

Same kind of deal with the temperature. Make sure there isn't junk between your AC condenser and your radiator. Make sure you have a fan shroud, and verify that your fan and fan clutch are in good shape. Replace the rubber coolant hoses - especially the smaller 90 degree ones below the cam position sensor and at the rear exhaust side of the block. And if you drive the pre-89, the rubber plug near the rear 90 degree hose should also be replaced. Replace your radiator cap, and the lines to your overflow tank, including the pickup line in the tank itself. Buy an aftermarket temp gauge - with a warning light!

There's nothing complicated or revolutionary here. It's all 'common sense' - but that seems to be remarkably uncommon.

thank you very much for your help