some questions as i finish up my head gasket job...

[Cyrus]

so i think i'm almost there... the engine is all put back together. all that is left is fitting the new intercooler and hard pipes i bought.

i do have some loose connectors that i need to figure out. can anyone tell me what these might be?

#1 a grey plug and 2 wires crimped together:


#2 2 plugs near the ignitor, coming down off the fender. you see the a/c compressor in the background:


#3 2 threaded holes in the head:


#4 round plug near the AFM, attached to the fender:


thanks!

 

[3p141592654]

#3. 7MGTE The forward hole is used to mount the PCV piping. The rear hole is unused.

 

[hvyman]

2 black plugs are for the a/c fans.

Bottom one doesn't get used iirc.

Where does the top one come from?

Also your fuel pulsation dampner is missing the screw in the middle. I'd suggest getting the screw or a different dampner. It can leak without it and it's a special screw.

 

[Cyrus]

good eye hvyman, would never have noticed that. ill see if i can get that screw from the dealer tomorrow.

and thanks, that takes care of #2, 3, and 4.

anybody have any guesses on #1?

 

[hvyman]

The crimp isn't stock and might go to the little horn by the master cylinder but is missing the actual plug.

Only thing I can think of for the connector is maybe the egr temp sensor if the harness is a ca harness.

Also I doubt you will be able to buy that screw by it self. Best bet is the junkyards can get one off a Cressida or supra or get a used one On here.

 

[Cyrus]

There is an old thread on supraforums where Dean Marcum offers some insight on the FPD. I have the Cole's notes below, or you can follow the link yourself

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249037

Here's the summary....

The screw is there to pre-load the dampner spring. Easiest way to improve flow, marginally, is to run the banjo bolt from a non-turbo 7M (the N/A motor does not have a dampner).

I have never seen a "proper way" to set the screw. However, after cutting one of the dampners open, if you have the screw all the way in it does restrict fuel flow into the rail (not a good thing).

When you did the autopsy on the dampener you had. Did it look like you could do any damage to the unit if the screw was fully installed. My aim is to count the number of turn in to full, then back out by 50% and try there for a few days.

No damage to the unit. It just limits the amount of travel of the internal "plate" against the spring. Kind of like a fuel pressure regulator backwards.

The dampner should never leak--with or without the screw in place. If it leaks then it is damaged and should be replaced. There should be no damage by replacing the screw.

was reading up on the damper...

seems the screw is really just a flag that visually represents whether or not the fuel rail is pressurized. doesnt that mean i can more or less run without it? if a leak develops, it will be a bad damper and the screw wouldnt save/fix the problem anyway?

also, i have a plug already connected to the EGR, there is one further down the wire loom, near where the 1st injector clip comes out. any chance this or the yellow crimp is related to the windshield washers?

 

[hvyman]

My screw came out and fuel sprayed out. Not a ton but it was coming out. Replaced it with a good used one. Just my experiences. Bad dampner could have backed the screw out in my case.

 

[IJ.]

Should be a sealed diaphram between fuel/screw...

 

[3p141592654]

#1 grey plug is for the theft deterrent horn. No idea on the crimp, it is not factory. What are the wire colors for it?

 

[Cyrus]

cool, i got rid of my theft deterrent horn, since i have an aftermarket alarm. thanks pi!

ill peel back the electrical tape on the crimped one tomorrow and post a new picture.

 

[Cyrus]

as promised, here is the inside of that unknown wire with the crimp connector... looks like a black wire and a green wire:



any guesses?

 

[Cyrus]

well, i'm very close to my first start up after the rebuild. i cant find anything nearby that this might connect to, so i guess i'm just gonna leave it and hope for the best.

 

[3p141592654]

No clue on that green and black wire.

 

[Cyrus]

yea i just dug around on the web looking at other harnesses. this appears to not be part of the stock wiring harness. must be a leftover from the previous owner. I am gonna leave it alone for now, and if the opportunity to trace it back to its origin appears, i'll do so and remove it if it isnt serving any function. for now, i dont think it'll cause any problems to leave it as-is.

thanks for the help, everyone!

 

[IJ.]

Power up the car then probe it with a MM.

 

[Cyrus]

i'm without a good battery at the moment, but i will soon have one. i'll post results of this test after i'm able to complete it. out of curiousity, what am i looking for and what can i learn from this test?

 

[IJ.]

If it is "live" or if it's ground, what happens if you feed it power, where it actually goes, are the two wires doing something if connected together?

Might just have been some gumby wiring for a gauge or an amp...

20 year old car could be anything, would just be nice to know for sure.

 

[Cyrus]

didnt get around to the wire test yet, but ran into some new problems.

finished putting everything back together today, and went to start it up.

1st problem: coolant leak at the back of the head. got a steady drip of water coming off the transmission. luckily, all that is in the cooling system at this point is water. really unhappy about this, as i cant even see which hose is leaking. not sure how to tackle this problem.

2nd problem: the car wont start. it cranks. the tach needle jumps. figured it was a fuel issue. jumpered +B and Fp w/ the key in the "ON" position, and I get absolutely no sound from the back of the car. do i have the most silent fuel pump ever?

I then jumpered the diagnostic terminals and checked for codes. i got only code 51.

so yea, not sure where to go from here, but i'm guessing i'll have to replace the fuel pump? is there anything else that could make it not power on at all?

 

[3p141592654]

Maybe you forgot to turn the ignition on when doing the FP - B+ test. ::shrug::

 

[Cyrus]

nope, definitely had it turned to "ON". not start though. is the next thing to do to jumper the terminal and then check for voltage at the connector above the fuel tank?